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Discussion Starter #1
I installed my Racing Beat front sway bar today. I've got some pics and more info that I'll post later.
But here's a short version:

1. Forget a 2x4 as the instructions say, get a 4' crow bar.
2. You don't need to drop the sub-frame completely off the rear studs. Remove the endlinks from at least
one side of the sway bar and with about 2 inches of clearance you can flip it backwards
and work it out the opposite end. This requires two people.
3. My '04 6s V6 MTX hatch had a heat shield over the steering rack. It's secured by 2 8mm bolts.
4. Be prepared to have at least one endlink be totally rusted/frozen on. A Dremel tool and an air
chisel worked for me.
5. Do NOT take a shortcut and leave those steering rack bolts in, remove them just as the RB instructions tell you. The Mazda service tech told me that you'll do about a $1000 in damage if you leave the rack bolted on.

Locating the steering rack bolts was a pain. I had no idea where to look, so for the equally uninformed, here are a couple pics:

There are two bolts on the driver's side. This bolt is on the front of the rack.
[attachmentid=13492]

Here you'll see the other bolt. Note the CP-E engine mount in the left side of the picture.
The third bolt could be under a heat shield. I don't know if other models have a shield. The bolt is about
6 inches from the end of the steering rack on the passenger side.
[attachmentid=13494]

Here's a pic of the RB bar after we wggled it into place. You can also see the bolt holes in the steering rack. I think the sub-frame was hanging on a 1/4" to 1/2" of the rear studs. Due to stresses on the subframe, I have no idea if it stays lined-up with the studs, if you pry it completely off.
[attachmentid=13495]
 

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Wasn't that a fun install? I'm surprised you got the bar out without pulling the subframe off the suds all way. Kudos!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys.

Yeah, the front swaybar install was a royal pain. I didn't do it myself though. Two good friends of mine (David and Brian) helped-out during key times and my neighbor (Terry). Terry was the one who figured-out how to get the swaybar out.
 

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I had an experienced mechanic do my entire Racing Beat suspension package this week in his driveway. He actually found it much easier to disconnect the steering box from BELOW the car instead of through the hood opening with an extension wrench as the instructions suggest. Once you get the big plastic shield off the bottom of the car, it becomes much clearer.

It was a pretty new car so he didn't run into any problems with frozen nuts and he didn't think it was that tough a job, just a lot of steps and disassembly. The ease of spring replacement compensated for the added steps for replacing the swaybars.

So there's my word of encouragement for those who still have their front bar sitting in the closet ... get it on! :D
 

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Damn! Threads like this just scare me. Stop it! :laugh:

Thanks for the tips. I'm getting ready to do my RB kit very soon, now. Luckily for me I have 2 new front end links (A Mazda tech wrecked both of the old ones when he could not get them loose while doing my clutch under warranty. I wish that I had just had them throw the bar on there for me while they were doing that!).
 

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IMO the front sway is a must. The difference is night and day. Much improved turn in, and the car is better balanced than with the rear RB sway only. Anyone who tells you otherwise hasn't driven a 6 with both installed! :drive:
 

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IMO the front sway is a must. The difference is night and day. Much improved turn in, and the car is better balanced than with the rear RB sway only. Anyone who tells you otherwise hasn't driven a 6 with both installed! :drive:
[/b]

I added the progress bar to the rear and I noticed a big difference, but I did springs at the same time so I couldn't tell what was from the springs and what was from the bar. I knew the RB rear bar would be to much on its own, thats why I went with a smaller rear bar. I also kept hearing bad things about toasted endlinks. I might have to look into selling my progress and doing RB front and back.
 

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I've been driving on my RB bars for over a year using the stock endlinks. I drive on some pretty bad roads, and I also autocross quite a bit. Never had any problems with the endlinks. One thing you have to be careful about with the stock endlinks is overtigtening the nut that secures it to the sway bar. The stud that the nut threads on to is hollow (to allow for an allen wrench) so it is not as strong as a solid stud would be. Tightening it too much can snap it in two, or weaken it enough that it will fail under hard driving conditions. If you want the nut to stay on, use a threadlocker compound, not additional torque.

Word to the wise - ALWAYS tighten to the manufacturer's specs with a torque wrench! No impact wrenches allowed. :nono:
 

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so has anyone actually just fitted the rear RB sway and not done the front yet?, or have you done the suspension at the same time?

I`m just curios if anyone has done it in stages and can let us know the amount of difference each update makes.

Nige.
 
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