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Discussion Starter #1
ok, last night i installed my cp-e system. i used the scotchlocks and i'm not 100% trusting of them, so i want to verify that they are all functioning. since my car is still in storage and i'm driving around a 1993 grand am for the winter, anything will fel fast. i've read to take voltages and blah blah blah, screw that. i bought that part the put it back to stock instetad of the box (basically it puts the mafci wires back together). so i'm going to test it by driving with my box on and then with it off. my question was: do i have to unhook the battery to install that little part? it seems like i should because i'm dealing with wiring...but i wanted your opinions.

thanks
 

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No need to disconnect the battery. Just make sure that you don't have the keys in the ignition.

Also, be forewarned that you will probably throw a CEL, but it will be corrected as soon as you put the box back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
good....i'm just VERY skeptical of the scotch locks....but there was barley enough room to put those damn things on let alone get a soldering iron in there.....

thanks for the response
 

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Also, the car may stall on your attempts to run without the box and just the pipe. You can keep the rpm's up by keeping the gas up, but I can't imagine thats good for the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
why? wouldn't it be JUST like the injen or one of those?
 

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good....i'm just VERY skeptical of the scotch locks....but there was barley enough room to put those damn things on let alone get a soldering iron in there.....

thanks for the response
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i soldered mine; i have the same concerns with the scotchlocks. if you unplug the ECU connector from the box there's more than ample room to get in and solder. i'm an experienced solderer and the job took less than ten minutes. if you've already ID'd the wires it would take less than that.

i use my trusty side cutting wire strippers to expose the insulation on the wires. they are well worth the $15 investment.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i had a hard as hell time gettingthe wire out of the way far enough from the other to even get a scothlock on it.....you guys make it seem like you had more room...
 

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I think its a half of an inch larger in diameter than the Injen, and when I asked Lou about running without the box he told me not to be surprised if it stalls. I'm not sure as to why that is, but it could happen. It happened the first time I tried it, but then it started up fine the two times after that. Its more of an FYI than anything, just don't think anything is wrong if it stalls right away.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i read somewhere that it might stall the first few times, but it will adjust to it...and i'm sure he told you that so that he could sell you a box ;)
 

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Well I was just having some problems with the power delivery with the whole system, and wanted to find out how much different it felt without the box as well. He was helping me troubleshoot some problems, suggested I try running without the box, and warned me of the stalling issue.
 

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i soldered mine; i have the same concerns with the scotchlocks. if you unplug the ECU connector from the box there's more than ample room to get in and solder. i'm an experienced solderer and the job took less than ten minutes. if you've already ID'd the wires it would take less than that.

i use my trust side cutting wire strippers to expose the insulation on the wires. they are well worth the $15 investment.
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Question about the side cutting wire strippers, do they actually strip the insulation off without cutting the wires?
What brand are those in your pic, klein?, If these work like i think it would definitely make things easier, I really want to solder these in and was worried that i may have to cut the wires to expose enought to solder, either that or i will have to very carefully try to peel off the insulation with a razor blade.
 

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Hey guys, so what was the verdict without running the BOX, did you feel any power loss?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
you have to reconect the mafci wires....but i hear there is a bigpower loss...almost back to where it was...
 

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When I ran without it, the low end kick was still there for the most part, but the high end is no comparison. You don't get that exagerrated timing boost with the kick you back in your seat pull.
 

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Question about the side cutting wire strippers, do they actually strip the insulation off without cutting the wires?
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that's the beauty of the side strippers, the don't cut the wire, but rather expose the insulation. i'm not sure of this brand. i've been through about a dozen pairs everything from Snap-on & Craftsman, to the no-name brand from Autozone. i think these are a cheap pair from Autozone with the rubber handles off an old Snap-on set. they're about $15 and a must for your toolbox. that picture shows tools you really need to have. i've got a box with about $5k worth of tools, and i use those pictured more than anything else.
 

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that's the beauty of the side strippers, the don't cut the wire, but rather expose the insulation. i'm not sure of this brand. i've been through about a dozen pairs everything from Snap-on & Craftsman, to the no-name brand from Autozone. i think these are a cheap pair from Autozone with the rubber handles off an old Snap-on set. they're about $15 and a must for your toolbox. that picture shows tools you really need to have. i've got a box with about $5k worth of tools, and i use those pictured more than anything else.
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I went looking for some of these at Home Depot and Radio Shack. What I found were the ones that you set the gauge and they 'nicked' the wire and then (presuming you kept squeezing) pulled the insulation off. Are these what you found, or are there some other cooler ones?
 
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