[Cdn17Sport6MT]

In general, and for a Mazda6 2.5 SkyActiv with a 6MT, can folks please characterize the tonal qualities, loudness, propensity to drone- the available axle-back options?

If you know this to be available in one convenient spot, then just say so and I'll diligently search...

Cheers!

• Corksport
• Racing Beat
• Tanabe
• HKS
• MagnaFlow?
• Cut-open and modify a stock "suitcase" muffler...

Thank you, if persons can find the time to pass me a comment or otherwise respond.

 

[Givemefuel]

i'm interested too

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

I have the additional matter of wanting to integrate said axle-back system to a yet to be installed trailer hitch... which "by hook or crook" I'll modify as necessary to ensure it happens 🙂. Another reason for my wanting to modify this hitch is to absolutely not degrade the "angle-of-departure" clearance of the car, and to set the receiver tube further-back from the bumper's edge so as to NOT have the hitch - with no ball-platform attached - "participate" in any rear-end accidents headed my way!

 

[Givemefuel]

I'm concerning too as i plan to add a hitch to carry my MTB. I follow this thread with big interest

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

Bump; anyone have any ideas or comments re the initial question re the comparative tonal qualities, loudness, possible droning that the various makes of axle-back Sport exhausts produce? Or, indeed, have I missed naming another one- or more mfrs?

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

Bump; anyone have any ideas or comments re the initial question re the comparative tonal qualities, loudness, possible droning that the various makes of axle-back Sport exhausts produce? Or, indeed, have I missed naming another one- or more mfrs?

Bosal, Borla?

More to the point... Anyone? Re the initial question???

@TalonTsi90 , you had some custom work done?

 

[TalonTsi90]

@TalonTsi90 , you had some custom work done?

I did the work. I think an axleback is not going to give you what you want. The factory resonator eliminates too much noise at the wrong frequencies for anything other than a replacement to be viable.
Im using a Magnaflow muffler with special tuning features i made, no resonator and no 2nd cat. So i cant really be used as a metric either.

If you take out the factory resonator, there will be enough sound volume for an axleback to make a difference as with it, theres not enough volume, you can take the whole suitcase off and only get a barely noticeable increase in output.

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

@TalonTsi90 : thank you; those are very helpful comments. When you said you did the work - did you mig or tig weld (or oxyacetylene weld) or bolt together cpts using sizing mandrels and muffler clamps? How 'bout mandrel-bending?

 

[TalonTsi90]

When you said you did the work - did you mig or tig weld

Buzzbox flux core mig.

bolt together cpts using sizing mandrels and muffler clamps?

I need to take pics when i redo the muffler section to raise the front end of the muffler up so it sits more flat. I cut off the front flange from the factory catback and that slip fit into the 2.5" SS pipe i used from a kit. The kit comes with 2- 90º U, 2- 45º and 2- 4" straight sections. I was able to find another kit that had double the pieces for the same price, but hind sight and all that...

From the factory flange, i went straight back as far as i could, using a 90º bend cut just off center axis to make a dogleg that went around the tank and straight out the rear subframe and then a 3" to 2.5" adapter trimmed to make a "ball mount" that i could weld into the muffler inlet at an angle making the whole thing as straight as possible.
As ive said before, the muffler was a 3" inlet, dual 2.5" out and i used a motorcycle baffle cut in half with extra holes drilled in and steel wool to pack them to make tunable inserts.

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

Thx. Look fwd to pix. Yeah, SS pack, aka "glasspack" of old. That was one of my general questions. Seems to me there was a product in past called, maybe (?), "cherry bomb" which I think was a glasspack. It'd wear out as time went on...

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

I did the work. I think an axleback is not going to give you what you want. The factory resonator eliminates too much noise at the wrong frequencies for anything other than a replacement to be viable.
Im using a Magnaflow muffler with special tuning features i made, no resonator and no 2nd cat. So i cant really be used as a metric either.

If you take out the factory resonator, there will be enough sound volume for an axleback to make a difference as with it, theres not enough volume, you can take the whole suitcase off and only get a barely noticeable increase in output.

I'm fast-concluding that your initial comment is right. Sorry it's taken a while 🙂...

I'm faced with wanting to integrate a 1-1/4" receiver tube Curt or DrawTite hitch... and so tho the Corksport arrangement is rather dear ($$$), I do know it is compatible with said hitches... Then, I'd like to concentrate on OEM resonator swap-out, possibly, with a Vibrant. Would love to make all flanged so as to make (inevitable) changes 'way less painful.

Will keep OEM underfloor cat. Re the changes, I'd seek to make a std length flange-to-flange dimension for the resonator section... with one such flanged section simply a plain piece of pipe, and even flange-up the OEM resonator, likewise, so if my wife refuses to drive with me due to the lack of anonymity that a sport exhaust results-in, well, dialing-back noise levels, progressively, is much less painful 🙂.

Vibrant, among others, makes several different resonator (levels).

Oh, another question: using a fluxcore wire- or shielding gas mig or tig - I see a bunch of on-car welding 😧. i) how can welders get the 11:00 to 1:00 o'clock butt weld done properly; and ii) re radio frequencies generated by welding, aren't one- or several on-board logic modules at risk of being fried?

 

[TalonTsi90]

Well, first, i dont think youll get much if any sound swapping out the res, i firmly believe youd need to remove it all the way, if youre keeping the suitcase. This is based on the noise level i have now, vs removing the whole suitcase, im louder now, but with way better tone.

Second, i would just get a short "cherry bomb" type muffler and flange it so that you could turn around for testing purposes. There are two designs, you want the one with the louvers inside, not the straight through meshed tube style. That way you can either capture more with the louvers pointed forward (scooping the sound), or less with them pointed backwards.

I dont know about the electronics bit, i havent seen any bad things happen on my car, so YMMV i guess. Its "easy enough" to drop the cat back and then just take the center section to the muffler place/welder to flange the factory res, OR, and better yet, just use band clamps and cut the res with about 2" of tube on either end. Those run $10-20 each and are very secure and dont leak when done right.