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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok here is the deal, I just ordered some new frozen rotors and hawk lts pads for my truck, and my fiance (the owner of the mazda) tells me her brakes have been squealing for months, and she noticed she has been having to press harder on the pedal to make the car stop. Im assuming the pads are gone, and probably destroying the rotors as i type this.

I will be doing the brakes on my truck this weekend and figured i should do her pads at the same time. I am pretty sure the rotors will need to be turned, so here are my questions...

1 does a 03 mazda6 4cyl have floating rotors in the front? (meaning once you remove the wheel, and caliper the rotor will just slide off)

2 any advice on pads? i see the duralast ceramics on auto-zones website. she is no racer, and its just a to work and back car, so nothing high end or fancy.

3 anything i need to know before starting a brake job on it? crazy high torque specs on the caliper bolts? weird process to open the calipers? tips?

i think that is all i have for now, i will update if i think of anything else.

thanks for the info in advance.
 

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the rotors come right off. its not a captive brake set up or anything goofy like that. very easy to do. :)

pads are really up to you. nothing specific is needed. and there are no tricks. if for some reason, you have any issues, just post here, and we can help you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sounds good. i checked out the sticky with the how-to's for the brakes and it looks pretty standard. I want to be able to take them off and get them turned. a honda i used to have, you had to take the whole hub assembly off to get the rotor off.. PITA!
 

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"brakes have been squealing for months, and she noticed she has been having to press harder on the pedal to make the car stop. Im assuming the pads are gone, and probably destroying the rotors as i type this."
.... "I am pretty sure the rotors will need to be turned"
I'm guessing that you wont be able to have them turned at this point.

anything i need to know before starting a brake job on it? crazy high torque specs on the caliper bolts? weird process to open the calipers? tips?
If you still have the philips screws on the rotors you could be in for a battle. Various people report problems with these. My experience was that I couldn't turn them with a philips with a breaker bar.. I also tried an impact but had no success... had to take it in. They tried their impact and also no go. They had to use some sort of evil looking air-hammer thing. You dont need them after you get them off btw.

Some people get confused in thinking that they can compress the rear caliper piston. You need to turn the piston to reset them.

Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i may not be able to turn them, if not i guess i will cross that bridge when i get there.

i have dealt with the big Phillips before, and your right they are a pita. not exactly sure what they do, besides strip and piss me off.

i have dealt with the screw in calipers before, 2 bent c clamps and a lot of cursing later i RTFM and figured it out.

i dont think i will be doing the rears at this time, i will check them, but i dont think they need any attention.

thanks guys for all the info!!
 

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for the screw, go to sears, and ask for a impact driver. its like $8.99. that will get those screws out 75% of the time. if that doesnt work, just drill the heads off of the screws with a drill. its alot easier then you would think since there tapered. the screws are only there for the assembly line so the rotors dont fall off, and so the rest of the brakes can be installed without the rotors moving. so drilling them out isnt gonna hurt anything.

and thats about the worst case scenario of problems your gonna have. our brake set up is very common, and is probably what you have done a dozens times before.
 

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They are not floating rotors...at least not in the real definition of floating rotors. They are one piece rotors and don't have any "buttons" to allow movement like the floating rotors on a motorcycle. I don't think I've ever seen a car with floating rotors. Full floating rotors make noise at low speed.

The screws are made out of case hardened cheese. Very soft stuff. I would normally recommend Harbor Freight but if the one at Sears is only 8.99 you should definitely get that one. (not that it is any less Chinese but I feel better somehow knowing it's a Sears tool :lol: )

Once the caliper is off it may take a rap or two with a deadblow hammer to slide off
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
anyone know what size the caliper bolts are? i want to make sure i have a good quality driver in that size so i dont destroy them. also the size of the bolts for the caliper brackets.

maybe they are not called floating rotors, that is just what i have heard them refered to as before.

drilling the screws would be fine by me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well both rigs are done. the Titan went without a hitch, and the 6 was pretty easy as well. only casualty was a snapped off wheel stud.

The design of these brakes is very weird. there is only one removable pin, and you have to pivot the caliper down to remove them. problem is, the brake line is to short to allow them to pivot far enough to clear the rotor. you would have to remove the brake line in order to remove the caliper.

Once i got in there, they weren't nearly as bad as i expected. the pads were only about halfway worn, and the rotors didn't even have a lip on them. I went ahead and replaced the pads, and put it all back together.

bigdaddy's garage is closed for the rest of the weekend.
 
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