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I have a 2003 Mazda 6 s manual with 200,000 mi. I've owned it for a couple of years but recently I've had issues starting it. I have to pump the clutch about 10 times with the key in the on position just to start it. Once it's running it's good. Mean, I've got to push the pedal all the way to the floor to shift and it doesn't like 1st unless I'm at a standstill lol. Is this a master cylinder issue or clutch cable?
 

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Assuming it is not low on fluid, it could be your master or slave cylinder.
After that many miles I'd replace both.

If there is a rattling noise then it could be your throw bearing.
 

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I'm with @jman1200 If there is a way to bleed it I would start there but if there is air to bleed out that means it got in somehow and there lies your problem. Buy both Beck Arnley parts and you're out $40. Only $20 if your go the low road. If there is a rubber hose I would replace that as well.

Do it before you roast your synchros.
Good luck.
 

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I have a 2003 Mazda 6 s manual with 200,000 mi. I've owned it for a couple of years but recently I've had issues starting it. I have to pump the clutch about 10 times with the key in the on position just to start it. Once it's running it's good. Mean, I've got to push the pedal all the way to the floor to shift and it doesn't like 1st unless I'm at a standstill lol. Is this a master cylinder issue or clutch cable?
Hi. :grin2: There are no clutch cables on your car. The fluid in your clutch is similar to brake fluid and should be changed every once in a while (10 years max) in order to keep the physical and chemical characteristics. Brakes and clutch could even be connected and share the fluid. I'm not sure about this car, but on some German cars it's like that. I'm not sure about the exact procedure, but there should be a drain plug somewhere. Just make sure the level of fluid doesn't go below minimum while you drain it, so that you don't get air pockets. Simply let it drip slowly through the drain plug, while you add fresh fluid into the tank. Some of the old fluid will remain in the system, but that should be fine. Most of it will be fresh. You can drive for a day or two and repeat the procedure if you want to. I do. :grin2:

There are two more things I know of that could cause the issue. One is the small cylinders under the clutch pedal could be out of adjustment or your pressure plate/clutch plate could be too worn.

The pedal cylinders are just behind the clutch pedal. You can dive into the footwell with a torch and take a look. It's fairly simple to figure out the logic behind it once you're there. You will see that the rods on the cylinders are threaded and that they have nuts on them. You can turn those to get the pedal to be higher or lower, and to engage/disengage at a certain point. Play around with it a bit until you find the right setting for you, just make sure you leave enough tolerance on engaging/disengaging, so that it doesn't do it too abruptly.

If it's the clutch set, you need to replace it, but I don't recommend you do it by yourself.

Good luck.
 

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I would be looking at the firewall for cracks where the clutch pedal mounts.
 

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Definitely check for broken welds on the pedal assy. mine ripped off pretty good. Had to weld it back and she's good now. It won't start because the safety switch isn't engaging.
 
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