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Discussion Starter #1
So, after a minor mishap, I got my replacement hpfp from PTP, and installed it on Sat. The good news is that I actually got a brand new core as well (PTP had just ordered some recently, so I snagged one). The bad news is that things were a little sketchy at first... to say the least! The break in directions are completely different, which is fine, and I followed those. They called for idling for a minute, then rev to 1,500 for a minute, then idle, etc etc...

So I did all that before going anywhere. You're suppossed to vary the revs from 1-5K rpms like before, using only low boost for the first 100 miles... same as before no biggie. The only thing is I got cut a couple times driving the first mile... .at about 4K rpms, pressure cut to like 50-100 PSI. Pulled over, idled and then held revs for a few minutes, continued driving. It hasn't cut since those first couple instances, and it's been over 50 miles. The only bad news is it isn't holding idle PSI as it should... it only holds 400-500 PSI at ilde when the A/C is ON. It should be holding that with it off, but it's more like 300s. I'm HOPING this magically fixes itself during the rest of the break-in period, as I'm not going through another one of these pumps. I was thinking I should just leave the A/C off for the rest of the break in period, and hope that idle PSI comes up? Any thoughts/advice?
 

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I have the CP-E pump and i have between 380-430 at idle wihout any problems .
 
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Did PTP tell you what went wrong with the first pump?
 

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Those idle #'s are fine
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did PTP tell you what went wrong with the first pump?
No, but I'll ask them to let me know. That's for the reminder! lol

Those idle #'s are fine
Yeah, it was idling lower at first, but it appears to be creeping up as the pump breaks in. I don't recall that happening with my last pump.... it idled at 450 rpms right off the bat. Most people hold 400-500 RPMS at idle w/ the A/C off. I'm not idling that high yet, but I'm hoping it comes up to 400 PSI by the time the pump is broken in. With the A/C off, I'm idling in the 300s currently.
 

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sucks your still having issues Doug. I was just about to order on of these because cpe is on back order indefinitely and I need a new pump with all the parts I am putting on.
 

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If you're up to the install, the KMD internals work perfectly...
 
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Discussion Starter #9
just in case you do see problems make sure you check that hardline that connects to the pump to make sure when you tightened it it didn't get bent or twisted. saw that happen to someone before.
Yeah, this should be fine. I found that if you install the 3 E8 bolts and tighten them up, but leave like 1mm of space, it lines up the 19mm nut perfect. I was actually able to hand tighten the 19mm nut almost the entire way this way. It just took a couple of torques and the thing was super tight. I don't think the line moved at all, but I'll double check it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The idle PSI is definitely too low. Here's a log I just took. Car had been at temp for long time. You can see where I turned the A/C on for a little bit in the middle. It should not be idling so low w/ the A/C off like that....



In case you can't see shit, the fuel pressure at idle is bouncing between about 230-280 PSI. It jumps to between 320 and 420 with the A/C on...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You should have listened to me ;) :stickpoke:

:D

What did you even tell me? lol Go for the CPE pump? I wanted to, but I went with the internals and the DH for the same price... and now I'm paying the price, lol.
 

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hmmm... I have the PTP internals waiting to be installed. I don't plan on doing the install until mid July, but now I am a little worried... :mellow:
 

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Word
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, it def works for the MS6. I doubled checked with Forzda, and emailed KMD tuning, and both said it works w/ the MS6. There's some new version of the internals, but apparently they work fine for the MS6.
 

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what happend the first time with your pump ?...douge.
 
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