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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone else experiencing either of these problems:

1. My mods are 3" exhaust (no intermediate cat), AEM Tru-Boost EBC set at 16psi to redline, and modded factory airbox. Car has 3500 miles on it. When I go WOT, the highest the TPS ever reads on my Scangauge II is 67%! It does this no matter whether or not I have the EBC on and boost set at 17psi, or off and running of the WG spring only, with boost at about 12psi. Fuel also makes no difference (I've ran 100 octane unleaded), so I'm sure it's not knock retard. (And yes, it does "feel" like it's only getting 67% throttle. Meaning I think it should be faster.)

*Note: I have had the reflash done, but never noticed any difference in power. Didn't have a scangauge then, so don't know what the TPS was doing prior to the reflash.

2. The other thing is, the car has developed an obnoxious odor after it's driven for about 10-15 minutes. Doesn't matter how I drive it (easy or hard), as soon as I come to a stop I can smell differential fluid stinch! There are no leaks or drips that are visible anywhere, but it stinks to high heaven.

I know I could take the car back in to the dealer and have it checked, but I'd have to remove all of my mods (which is a pain in the butt). So I'd just like to know if anyone else has experienced either of these issues.

Thanks in advance!
 

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You are burning coolant like the other guy.
 

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Just found that if I don't completely floor the car, I can get the TPS to go as high as 76-78%. And it actually pulls harder! What's up with that???
 

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The other thing is, the car has developed an obnoxious odor after it's driven for about 10-15 minutes. Doesn't matter how I drive it (easy or hard), as soon as I come to a stop I can smell differential fluid stinch! There are no leaks or drips that are visible anywhere, but it stinks to high heaven. [/b]
I recently developed the gear oil smell in mine as well........... Yes it's gear oil!
 

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I recently developed the gear oil smell in mine as well........... Yes it's gear oil!
[/b]
Had mine on the lift yesterday and inspected EVERYTHING. No leaks ANYWHERE!!! I am baffled.

Problems to date:

1. Gear Oil STINCH
2. Low on power, probably because it only goes 66% WOT
3. Rear Brakes squal in reverse
4. Windows sound like they drop off track when going up or down (this just started)
5. ???
 

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Had mine on the lift yesterday and inspected EVERYTHING. No leaks ANYWHERE!!! I am baffled.

Problems to date:

1. Gear Oil STINCH
2. Low on power, probably because it only goes 66% WOT
3. Rear Brakes squal in reverse
4. Windows sound like they drop off track when going up or down (this just started)
5. ???
[/b]
1-could be clutch ..
2-that sounds normal .Ill check to make sure but think thats all its gonna open.
3-normal mine does it ,rotors are glazed ,can turn rotors but will come right back.
4-not sure would have to see that.
 

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1. Gear Oil STENCH :swearin:

1-could be clutch ..[/b]
I really doubt it. Clutch is usually a harsh burning smell like if you ride the brakes, etc.
This smell is like if you spilled a little gear oil inside the cabin, very, very annoying odor for about a month now.
It replaced the 'new car smell' I loved so much. I plan on removing my CAI & taking it in for the reflash recall.
Hopefully, they can find a gear housing vent malfuctioning or something..... It really sucks!!! :irate:
 

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try pulling your negative battery cable and letting the car reset for 5-10 minutes. Reconnect the battery, start the car and let it idle for about 5 minutes. At no point touch the gas. Turn off the car and then restart. Go for a drive and check the TPS results. Sometimes if the car is not given time to properly do the DBW TB adapation the sensor doesn't know where the throttle plate is and you'll never open all the way.
 

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just noticed my brakes were doing the same in reverse.. o well...
 

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just noticed my brakes were doing the same in reverse.. o well...
[/b]
Mine has done this from about 500 kilometres.

Oh well. i had the dealership take a look at them. Nothing wrong but it's on the service file.
 

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My gear oil smell problem appeared immediately after I got the clutch TSB done.....at first I thought possibly it could be the new clutch--but I know gear oil.

Well after 3,000 miles....the smell is still there (when the vents are NOT on recirculate and I am at a stop w/ the car warmed up)

Anyone have a cure for this stench?

-Mike
 

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I noticed that smell when I first got my MSP6, but it went away after a while. I also noticed that I have more power at half throttle than full throttle. How are you measuring your TPS?
 

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Just found that if I don't completely floor the car, I can get the TPS to go as high as 76-78%. And it actually pulls harder! What's up with that???[/b]
This is known characteristic of the ECU in our car. CPE came across it and documented it here in this thread:
CPE Product Updates thread
It's similar to the torque management strategy used in the MS3. CPE expects to provide the ability to override this in their next version of the Standback EMS.
 

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My gear oil smell problem appeared immediately after I got the clutch TSB done.....at first I thought possibly it could be the new clutch--but I know gear oil.

Well after 3,000 miles....the smell is still there (when the vents are NOT on recirculate and I am at a stop w/ the car warmed up)

Anyone have a cure for this stench?

-Mike[/b]
Yeah, I am noticing the smell right after the clutch TSB too.

As for it being slower WOT...I always thought it was my imagination but for as long as I remember (maybe not before the reflash), it seems to pull harder in maybe 50-70% throttle vs. WOT.
 

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try pulling your negative battery cable and letting the car reset for 5-10 minutes. Reconnect the battery, start the car and let it idle for about 5 minutes. At no point touch the gas. Turn off the car and then restart. Go for a drive and check the TPS results. Sometimes if the car is not given time to properly do the DBW TB adapation the sensor doesn't know where the throttle plate is and you'll never open all the way.[/b]
I tried this on my car this morning, and I gotta say that It worked. It took some getting used to because I didn't have as much throttle when the accelerator was depressed 1/3 of the way, but I finally got more power at full throttle than 3/4 throttle. Thanks for the great tip.
 

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I tried this on my car this morning, and I gotta say that It worked. It took some getting used to because I didn't have as much throttle when the accelerator was depressed 1/3 of the way, but I finally got more power at full throttle than 3/4 throttle. Thanks for the great tip.[/b]
cool...I'll try that too then.
 

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I tried this on my car this morning, and I gotta say that It worked. It took some getting used to because I didn't have as much throttle when the accelerator was depressed 1/3 of the way, but I finally got more power at full throttle than 3/4 throttle. Thanks for the great tip.[/b]
You don't think this is just the usual performance improvement you get after resetting the ECU, which gradually diminishes as the ECU relearns how to be a dud?
 

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You don't think this is just the usual performance improvement you get after resetting the ECU, which gradually diminishes as the ECU relearns how to be a dud?[/b]
I did it and the throttle seems to make more sense. But you're right, the car always seems to drive better right after an ECU reset...no stuttering/knocking even. <shrug>
 
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