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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this grinding, clunking noise during cold start up. And at that same moment when I turn her off and start it her up again, that noise doesnt happen. But when you leave it for a couple of minutes or so, that noise will appear. Im thinking its the cam belt tensioner or the the VTCS system. Ive heard ppl here have some complaints about it especially at cold start ups. The noise is coming from the belt side (cam side)...
 

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And at that same moment when I turn her off and start it her up again, that noise doesnt happen.
^Has the car warmed up a bit when you do this and the noise goes away, or do you just turn her over, and then turn it right off, and then turn her over again, and she starts up fine? Trying to rule out the VVT... only happens on cold start ups afaik.
 

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Tensioner problem would result in constant or frequent rattle, whereas VVTA would be on cold startup, with it going away after only seconds.
 
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Tensioner problem would result in constant or frequent rattle, whereas VVTA would be on cold startup, with it going away after only seconds.
Thanks Collin.. I didn't realize it went away that quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So its the VVT?... yah its only on the first initial start up. But when I turn her off then turn her on the noise doesnt happen. So whats the TSB?, I can probably do this myself cause my Mazda service center are full of douchebags...
 

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I really don't know at the top of my head, because I had mine done under warranty. When I get home I can post what the work order on my reciept says word by word. I know it has to do with the actuator pin failing needing to get replaced with a stronger one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I really don't know at the top of my head, because I had mine done under warranty. When I get home I can post what the work order on my reciept says word by word. I know it has to do with the actuator pin failing needing to get replaced with a stronger one.
Thanks. I wonder if my car is still under warranty lol...
 

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Here's the TSB: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/cx7/bulletin/01-002-08-1896.pdf

Here's the on-going thread here:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/208594-new-tsb-could-missing-link-2.html

Here's JJ's thread that might be helpful:
Mazdaspeed Forums

And if you poke around on MSF, you can find some guys who've done the job themselves. You will need some special tool(s) to retime the engine. I think SU rents them.
If you don't have it covered under warranty, and don't do it yourself, expect to pay 600-1000 bucks to the dealer for them to do it.

You can take a look at your timing chain through your oil cap hole. The clack is the chain hitting the top of the valve cover, so if it's peened or scored up, you'll know for certain the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Yah I just called mazdausa and told me to call my local service dept. Mind you the closest one to me was the one I reported cause they couldnt diagnose my broken passenger mount, and I feel that they are a bunch of idiots. Now I called the one on Staten Island and guess what, another douchbag of a service advisor ansered the phone. I told him about the TSB and had the attitude of telling me "Yah I know what a TSB is" attitude. Im like ok, well I need to bring my car in for that. He replied "You need to bring in all your maintenance record, and if you give us the right to diagnose it, and find thats its not the tsb, we will charge you $99 an hour for labor". Im like, all my oil changes and other maintenance are done on my shop, well you know what the answer to that was...

I cant stand this ppl working on the service dept, its like a bunch of 7 yr olds. Or worst...

So whats the worst that could happen if I dont get this TSB done?, Im so broke right now with car payments, school payments and other stuff.

BTW - thanks Iheart...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So what are the consequences of me not getting this shit fixed?, even if I do the oil change. It feels like the car is in VTEC mode all the time lol...
 

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I went to the stealership with the same problem. Startup noise that I could point out on cold start. They told me after 4 days that they couldn't find anything wrong. I get my car back and now it "squeaks" for like .5-1 second on startup. Sorry for the rant, I think I'm going to have the whole thing done for preventative causes, don't wanna have it go on me when I can't afford it. But you asked what's the worst that could happen... well your pin could sheer off into the crank case, oil pan, caught in the timing chain, mark up the cylinder wall... tons of fatal things to your engine. I mean those aren't guaranteed to happen but if you read the horror stories, it's more than enough to convince you it needs to be done. IMHO, I would suck it up and take it to a Mazdaspeed certified dealership whenever you can soonest afford it. They warranty any work that they do and any part they replace So if they fuck something up and your engine takes a shit ( example ) they are forced to replace. Plus they have the timing equipment required do the job. Hope you resolve this issue. dealership quotes me ~$900 just for the actuator + ~300 for timing chain and guides (optional)
 
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