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Hey guys. I recently just finished with a rather expensive repair to my 2006 Mazda 6. I had to get some repair work done on both quarter panels due to extensive rust damage (cutting, welding, repainting). The good news is that my car looks good as new.

However, this has left me rather paranoid.

As I live in a part of Canada that is known for its vicious winter cycles, I am really concerned about rust damage. After dropping about $2K to repair my quarter panels, I am now looking to do whatever is necessary to mitigate or halt any risk of rust damage. I am scheduled to get a full rust proofing done on my car in about 2 weeks, but, if there is anything else that I can do to protect my new quarter panels and fenders, I am open to any advice.
 

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Make sure the inner fender liners are removed before applying the rust proofing agent (many people do not believe in RP, I do).
I'd ask the tech to drill a few holes in the inner fender (the metal part) to spray some between it and the new quarter panel. I've seen that the rust usually starts where these to parts meet, on the edge of the wheel well. Seal those holes after.
I'd also suggest you remove or replace the liners with a plastic type, these are made of a material that absorbs water (felt) and gets soaked keeping the salt and humidity there.

I'd love to repair mine but because it's my 3rd car and used only on occasions, I don't think is worth it. Good to know how much it costs to fix it.
 

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I have rust starting in my wheel wells. Was thinking of getting this taken care of sooner than later but it is the kids car and not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze.
 

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I've been using Fluid Film for years on all my cars. I have an old Sears quart spray gun that is setup for pressure feed (as opposed to siphon feed).

I can't say enough good things about FluidFilm. It can make a mess if your not careful with the spray gun. And it has an odd smell.
 

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Fluid Film is, I believe, lanolin-based. Accounts for the smell? One of the previous posters, albeit some considerable time ago, has a great point re the hidden/boxed-in joint between sheet metal (rear) wheelhouses and INNER surface of rear quarter panels... is a prime area for condensation. Typical Honda corrosion point. Likely also Mazda6 too. Seems to me that provided said area ultimately drains-out (?) - rusproofing at that inner spotwelded flanged joint is really important (in my mind).
 

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Get a beater car for the worst part of the winter. A different ride for Thanksgiving through Easter.
Isn't that what the Mazda is? In my neck of the woods they go for $1500US (sometimes $500)
Heck, if you got another Mazda6 it would be a parts car when the body dissolves (or you fall out the bottom)
 

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On my Honda van I put fluid film and grease into the rear fender wheel arch. When I had the plastic interior panels off it was easy to do. I'll do the same on the new-to-me Mazda I have now. In NJ they salt the roads even if they think it will snow next week.
When I replaced the headlight lenses on the Mazda I took off the front bumper, I applied fluid film to everything I could see under the bumper. Even though there is almost no rust there now, a couple winters from now and the salt will rust everything.
 

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I don't believe anyone has mentioned POR 15 but it's pretty impressive. You have to do it exactly as directed, but once dry I believe it's a pretty impervious shell. So for maximum rust protection, you might consider applying POR 15 everywhere underneath you can reach with a brush, and blasting everything you can't reach with Fluid Film. Woolwax is basically identical to FF and a cool feature is that you can get it in black.
 

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Good to know, re FF and WoolWax. I assume both products creep into areas which are not directly accessible (like the aforementioned rear wheelhouse-to-quarterpanel lap / spot-welded seam... (i.e. the rear wheel wheel-lip).

By the way, some of those areas are not easily accessible unless a person were to use a shallow-pilot small diameter hole saw... (the holes to be subsequently plugged-off). The holes could be made, of course, in the wheelhouse with some care that the pilot drill and the holesaw itself does NOT break-through and scar or dent the inside of the quarterpanel.

One question I have, is whether on the four door 3rd Gen Mazda6 - the forward (base of the) "dogleg" has a drain. If you ran-in to these temporary holes - Fluid Film... and it dripped all of the way forward to the base of the dogleg -- you would indeed want it NOT to pool... but rather, to leak through the drain (and NOT to plug the drain). Does anyone know if there is a drain?
 
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