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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before you begin to flame me, please note that I have searched for a long time for the past 3 months before attempting to do this.

I have a 2006 Mazdaspeed6 w/ the Bose and am trying to hook up an amp. I am using the preouts that connect to the sub to wire everything up.

From what I have researched I have derived the following:

Black thick wire is the negative
Black/Red thin wire is the positive

Is this correct?

Mark
 

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check out this thread on mazda6tech.com. http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about191.html i've wired a couple, including the MS6 using only the positive signal lead at the bose sub harness in trunk. i'd have to double check, but i believe it was the thin wire black with silver marks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
check out this thread on mazda6tech.com. http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about191.html i've wired a couple, including the MS6 using only the positive signal lead at the bose sub harness in trunk. i'd have to double check, but i believe it was the thin wire black with silver marks.
[/b]
I've seen that thread many times before but I'm still confused to hell, lol. What do you mean using ONLY the positive signal lead? Just put both the core and shields into it?

Thanks,

Mark
 

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the signal for audio is AC. the entire signal is carried on that one lead. the way i currently have my sub wired in the speed6 is with the positives from the Y splitter into the black/silver wire and the negative not connected. the negative serves as a point of reference, but if it's connected to the same ground as the signal source (ie the HU) you may get a ground loop.

in my last M6 i connected the negative directly to chassis ground with no ground loop. this time around i tried it with leaving the shields (negative leads) disconnected and it didn't have any negative effect on performance.

if you read through old posts you'll find varying opinions on this. i know what's worked for me multiple times. i haven't noticed any problems with sound quality with the current setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, just wire in the cores to the black/silver wire?
 

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that's how i have mine setup. i'm running an older rockford fosgate 300.2 two channel amp into an 8" kicker solo baric s7. the signal is strong and i've had no issues with ground loop, popping, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The cores are the the ones w/ the 2 colored cover w/ the wire exposed and twisted together. right?

Also, what did u do to run the power wire?
 

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i ran an 8 gauage power flow directly to the battery & fused within a foot. it connects to another inline fuse about a foot before the amp. for remote amp turn-on, i tapped into the blue/red stripped wire at the bose sub harness in the trunk.

depending on the quality of the RCA Y splitter you buy it will have either one or two wires running down the middle & a metal cladding/shield. if it has two wires, the second connects up to the negative, otherwise the metal shielding connects to it. i bought a cheap $5 RF Install Edge brand splitter. it had a single wire running down the middle for positive and a metal braided sheild wrapped around it. i cut the male end off to expose the wires. i wrapped the two wires together and attached them with a butt connecter to a 6" piece of primary wire. this was to give a little slack to work with. i did the same with the metal braid. i straightened out the braid & attached it to a length of wire with a butt connector. like i mentioned earlier, i ended up just taping off this wire and zip tying it into the harness with the rest of the wires.

for ground, i screwed directly into a metal brace under the trunk liner.

here's a pic. you can see the basic set up. nothing too intricate, but clean & functional. you can see the inline fuse, the ground is behind the board holding the amp.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks man. Did u run power through the grommet for the ECU or drill? I seperated the wires and I had ones that were just metal wire pieces (which I twisted together) and the others were metal wire pieces w/ this thing that surrounded them (which I twisted together).

Thanks,

Mark
 

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i always drill my own holes. it takes about 20 seconds and i know exactly where it is. that grommet is baffeled and hard to get through without chopping it up. a few months back another member nicked a wire in that harness while running his power flow & ended up doing all kinds of damage. that's a personal preference, but i'd rather not take the chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, so the plain metal wires w/o the covering are the shields? The ones w/ the coverings are the cores?
 

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that's correct. if you're in doubt use a digital multi meter, test from these points to the peg tailed wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The only black/silver wire in my harness was the thickest one in there, can you double check this for me? Also, what do I tap into for the constant for the turn-on lead?

Thanks,

Mark
 

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sorry about that, my older 04 had a black/silver wire.

in the 06 speed6 the bose sub harness has four wires:
thick black: chassis ground
thick blue/red strip: 12V ACC amp turn on
thin black/red strip: signal (positive lead)
thin brown: signal reference ground
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Shit, i already spliced :irate:

Lol, so i gotta tap into:

thick blue/red strip: 12V ACC amp turn on
thin black/red strip: signal (positive lead)

Thats right?
 

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yes, that should be it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, I got everything and it's obvious I am getting signal, HOWEVER the amp isn't receiving power. I have the power wire on the + terminal and the amp just isn't lighting up. I know the amp works because it worked when I took it out of my previous car. What can be some isses? It is not currently grounded but it should still recieve power. It also doesn't look like any fuses are blown.

Thanks,

Mark
 

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your amp needs three things to power on, at the amp you need:
12V constant at the battery terminal
12V amp turn on
chassis ground

use your digital multimeter to test for voltage & ground.

i'm a little confused by your ground comment. without a good ground of the same gauge wire as your battery lead the amp will not power on.

if you're still having problems, snap a couple pics of your install & we'll help troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
your amp needs three things to power on, at the amp you need:
12V constant at the battery terminal
12V amp turn on
chassis ground

use your digital multimeter to test for voltage & ground.

i'm a little confused by your ground comment. without a good ground of the same gauge wire as your battery lead the amp will not power on.

if you're still having problems, snap a couple pics of your install & we'll help troubleshoot.
[/b]
Do you have a pic of where it was grounded?
 

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i don't have a picture on hand, but i grounded mine to a metal brace under the trunk liner behind where the amp is mounted. the ground is about a foot long, and attached to the brace with a 3/8" self tapping screw & lock washer. about an inch up the ground i tapped down the ground with a 1/4" cable clamp held down with another screw. i like the brace because it's not painted and you can see both sides.
 
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