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Discussion Starter #123
Already have the AWR dogbone and agree - very important. I'm not convinced the aftermarket upper mounts are worth the investment. The lower dogbone does most of the work and takes most of the abuse. In fact the stiffer dogbone takes some stress off the upper mounts.

The lower mount is a well documented problem. If the upper mounts prove to be problematic for track use, we'll address them for sure. Until then, I'm focusing my modding dollars on what I believe will translate into measurable results. Stay tuned. I think you'll find a couple upcoming mods very interesting . . . :D
 

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Canyon,

Awesome progress, but I have a few questions. I dont' think I saw anywhere what class you are building this car for. Is it for trackdays or a classed race with NASA or SCCA? What is the budget?
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Canyon,

Awesome progress, but I have a few questions. I dont' think I saw anywhere what class you are building this car for. Is it for trackdays or a classed race with NASA or SCCA? What is the budget?
Thanks! Building according to SCCA Solo2 rules classed in F-Prepared (note the numbers on the car - FP16). I'm doing some Autocross and Prosolo with a variety of clubs including SCCA, NASA, THSCC, TSCC, VMSC. But building mostly for HPDE and the THSCC Timetrial Series at VIR, CMP, NC-CAR tracks. The future may include a NASA race series, but that's alot more money than timetrialing.

Budget? Whatever I can slip by the wife un-noticed. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Continuing the class and prep discussion: If you are familiar with FP you know the prep rules are pretty wide open. Almost anything goes. The real challange for the Mazda6 is minimum weight and maximum wheel width. All else equal, these two parameters have a huge impact on lap times. Max wheel width for the class is 12" - very difficult to imagine a 12" wheel on the 6. Minimum weight varies using a formula Including displacement, Number of driven wheels, ABS, TCS etc. At the end of the day no car has to weigh more that 2500lbs. I think i calculated the minimum weight for the 6 to be 2350lbs. Again hard to imagine the 6 at this weight. So the 6 is at a disadvantage to other cars in FP that can more easily reach their minimum weight and fit really wide wheel - like the 911, NSX, BMW 3-series to mention a few.

I guess this is why we don't see many 6s out there.
 

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Continuing the class and prep discussion: If you are familiar with FP you know the prep rules are pretty wide open. Almost anything goes. The real challange for the Mazda6 is minimum weight and maximum wheel width. All else equal, these two parameters have a huge impact on lap times. Max wheel width for the class is 12" - very difficult to imagine a 12" wheel on the 6. Minimum weight varies using a formula Including displacement, Number of driven wheels, ABS, TCS etc. At the end of the day no car has to weigh more that 2500lbs. I think i calculated the minimum weight for the 6 to be 2350lbs. Again hard to imagine the 6 at this weight. So the 6 is at a disadvantage to other cars in FP that can more easily reach their minimum weight and fit really wide wheel - like the 911, NSX, BMW 3-series to mention a few.

I guess this is why we don't see many 6s out there.
You looking at just having fun locally or going national? National would be stiff competition with a 6. Might be cheaper to get a e36 to start with than a mazda6. I'm going from BS to STR with my s2k.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
For now, just having fun at local events.

Like I said in the very first post:

"You can’t turn a pig into a race car, but you can spend a lot of money building a really fast pig. I don’t expect to run with the Shelbys, M3s and 911s, just to be one of the fastest FWD-4Doors on the road course."

At the end of the day we are all just racing for a miniature car on a stick (trophy) and then going back to our day-jobs. Sure, winning is fun, but the car's primary purpose is to entertain me, put a grin on my face and satisfy my need to tinker.

BTW, the S2000 is a wonderfully capable car and a hoot to drive. Enjoy. :)
 

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I wonder how my zx2 s/r would do out there if I took the time to set it up, and make it really fast with a turbo or sc? Well I guess that dream only takes money.
 

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Never seen anyone run a 12" wide wheel, but with a properly sized wheel, it shouldn't be impossible. I daily beat on on a 8.5" wide wheel with a ton of room to play. Logan is running 19x9.5 with a +25 and 808 was running a 10" wide wheel out back with just a bit of camber IIRC.

Over fenders would really help sell it, but I'M anything over 10" wide is going to be deminished returns as the turning radius will suck(less we are talking about the rear that doesn't see power in which case you could tub the thing).
 

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How wide of a wheel can you fit on a 6 without doing any fender work?
 

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Discussion Starter #134
How wide of a wheel can you fit on a 6 without doing any fender work?
I have no idea, but I'm not bashful about trimming the fenders - less weight! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #135
With the engine and radiator installed and pretty well hooked up we turn our attention to the front suspension.

There is no easier way to mount the front swaybar than when the frame is on the floor.



As I prepared to replace all the rubber control arm bushings with new poly ones, I figured I'd check the lower ball joints for wear. Mazda says the rotational torque should be between 1.2 and 2.2Nm. Sadly they all came in at less the 0.5Nm. Looks like I'll be buying new lower control arms. I wonder if they are available without bushings?



Notice the inner bushing sleeve for the upper control arm is offset to give us a bit more negative camber. With the adjustable SPC upper ball joints, I'm hoping to run about 2.5deg neg. :D



Stay tuned as we continue make a pretty good suspension system work at its best!
 

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Mad props for taking the lead on a Mazda6 build, since I don't see too many of them. The SPC should give you over 3 degrees. I have them on my S2k set at about 2.7 and was able to get up to 3.3 if I wanted to.

With the engine and radiator installed and pretty well hooked up we turn our attention to the front suspension.

There is no easier way to mount the front swaybar than when the frame is on the floor.



As I prepared to replace all the rubber control arm bushings with new poly ones, I figured I'd check the lower ball joints for wear. Mazda says the rotational torque should be between 1.2 and 2.2Nm. Sadly they all came in at less the 0.5Nm. Looks like I'll be buying new lower control arms. I wonder if they are available without bushings?



Notice the inner bushing sleeve for the upper control arm is offset to give us a bit more negative camber. With the adjustable SPC upper ball joints, I'm hoping to run about 2.5deg neg. :D



Stay tuned as we continue make a pretty good suspension system work at its best!
 
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Discussion Starter #137
Mad props for taking the lead on a Mazda6 build, since I don't see too many of them.
Thanks! I love having something different on the track. :p


The SPC should give you over 3 degrees. I have them on my S2k set at about 2.7 and was able to get up to 3.3 if I wanted to.
That would be very nice, but it is highly dependent on suspension geometry. The S2000 upper ball joint is located roughly at the top of the brake rotor so the distance from lower to upper ball joint is fairly short. The 6's upper ball joint is located completely above the tire resulting in a relative long distance between lower and upper ball joints. Therefore, assuming you move the upper ball joint inboard the same distance on both cars, the S2000 will gain more neg camber than the 6. We'll see how it shakes out as we put it back together. :)
 

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With the engine and radiator installed and pretty well hooked up we turn our attention to the front suspension.

There is no easier way to mount the front swaybar than when the frame is on the floor.



As I prepared to replace all the rubber control arm bushings with new poly ones, I figured I'd check the lower ball joints for wear. Mazda says the rotational torque should be between 1.2 and 2.2Nm. Sadly they all came in at less the 0.5Nm. Looks like I'll be buying new lower control arms. I wonder if they are available without bushings?



Notice the inner bushing sleeve for the upper control arm is offset to give us a bit more negative camber. With the adjustable SPC upper ball joints, I'm hoping to run about 2.5deg neg. :D



Stay tuned as we continue make a pretty good suspension system work at its best!
CR...

I swear I have been looking at those whiteline products for the last few months...lol. just haven't pulled the trigger on them yet. They are a good product. They will probably go in my car over the winter while I do a bunch of other stuff.

Keep up the good work.
 

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Canyonrider, where did u get the pilot bushing for the crank?? went to mazda and they said that part dont exist, u got a part number??? anyone???


Don't worry about finding it. Our cars don't use them. They are there from the factory but the 6 tranny doesn't use it. So drive on
 
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