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Nope...its from the last (and first) on-track session. It is the reason for the Fusion motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
In an effort to keep my promise to be kinder to this (the third) engine, I've decided to add some mechanical gauges.

Here is the stock oil pressure switch



We'll keep the stock switch and add a capillary tube to the new mechanical oil pressure gauge.



Finally, we adapt the former heater hose connection to the water temp thermocouple.



The gauges will be mounted in the cockpit, obviously. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #107
you took out your AC right? was that a nylon tube? my eyes may be playing tricks on me, lol

Yup, just nylon tubing and no AC.

I've got most of the Mazda bits swapped over to the Fusion engine. Here's how she looks



I'm gettin' antsy to get it back into the car. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #109
nice man. you sure that nylon wont melt with the hot oil
It definitely won't melt from the oil temp. It's the same tubing supplied with all Stewart Warner and AutoMeter mechanical gauges. I've used it in many cars in the past. You just have to be careful to route it away from moving, hot or sharp parts. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #112
you are one brave dude. No freakin way Would I have a mechanic oil gauge in my interior...... getting hosed with fuel or hot oil is not fun at all.
I'm certainly not suggesting people do what I do, but I've had mechanical gauges in at least 6 different cars over the last 30yrs with only one leak - and that was within the gauge itself.

As always, follow my example at your own risk! :)

BTW, I agree with your position on mechanical fuel gauges. Although I'll admit to having one once for a short time as I was troubleshooting a fuel delivery problem. ;)
 

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axle removal

did you have trouble removing your axles??? doing my fusion swap and removed the nut on the hub but the axle just wont budge. guess i should get a pry bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
did you have trouble removing your axles??? doing my fusion swap and removed the nut on the hub but the axle just wont budge. guess i should get a pry bar.

Often times they have to be pressed out. When I pull the motor, I disconnect the lower control arms and then pull the axle out of the tranny. Then I just let the entire assembly hang.



In this case I pulled the subframe and the suspension together - but again left the axles in the hubs.



Good luck with it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #115
With both headers on and the tranny mated to the engine it looks like we are about ready to slide it back into the car.



While the frontend is apart, we'll correct another issue. The corner workers at VIR gave me a hard time because I had no tow hook on the front of the car. It will get welded to the top of the frame rail.



If I measured this correctly it should come thru the bumper cover just below the headlight.

 

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I'm certainly not suggesting people do what I do, but I've had mechanical gauges in at least 6 different cars over the last 30yrs with only one leak - and that was within the gauge itself.

As always, follow my example at your own risk! :)

BTW, I agree with your position on mechanical fuel gauges. Although I'll admit to having one once for a short time as I was troubleshooting a fuel delivery problem. ;)
Yeah, the mechanical oil pressure gauge inside the car is no big deal. The tubing that is supplied with new guages is some pretty thick/tough stuff. It is (or at least used to be) legal in most if not all forms of motorsport. The fuel guage now...that is NOT smart or legal to have inside the car. Rules mandate an isolator for a mechanical fuel pressure guage. Essentially, it is a rubber isolating diaphragm that has fittings on both sides. Mount it in the engine bay, run a fuel line to one side, then run another tube to the mechanical fuel pressure gauge inside the car filled with an inert fluid (I forget what is recommended...probably anti-freeze or something).

Most people dont even bother with fuel pressure guages at all these days as fuel pumps have become so reliable and with all of them being electric, when they fail...they fail completely and instantly. In the old days, you had mechanical pumps that were driven off a lobe on the camshaft and over time the lobe wore down....thus reducing fuel pressure/volume slowly...and resulting in lean running under load....and usually a nice BOOM!
 

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headers

so what headers/oil pan did u go with??? any modifcations to the alternator. i finally got the axles out the trans but could only pound out the pass side out the hub but got motor out. did u change out the oil pressure sensor??
 

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Discussion Starter #118
so what headers/oil pan did u go with??? any modifcations to the alternator. i finally got the axles out the trans but could only pound out the pass side out the hub but got motor out. did u change out the oil pressure sensor??
I'm using my 4 year old CPE headers with my original 2003 oil pan. The alternator has stand-off brackets to clear the headers -you can see them in the pic. Swapped all the Fusion sensors for the Mazda sensors (oil, crank, cam, etc)

If you had to pound out the axles, you might want to go ahead and replace the wheel bearings now. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Well, we got the Fusion motor into the car and started putting the nose back together.



I think I'm going to like my tow hook. :)

On another subject:
I have been wringing my hands over what to do about springs and shocks. The stock shocks/struts are used up after 200k miles and I'd really like to lower the car a bit, but there really isn't money in next year's race budget for coilovers. So what to do for 1 or 2 seasons? Just buy KYBs or Tokicos and cut the springs?

Fortunately, Craigslist to the rescue - have I mentioned how much I love Craigslist? So far we've scored race seats, harnesses, 8" wide wheels and now . . . Eibach springs. All at ridiculous prices.



I even got my RB sway bars used - although not off Craigslist. I think with the money I've saved, I'll buy a set of Bilsteins. :D
 
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