[GerryB]

It is a classic course. Catching air over the apex of the second ess has got to be, umm, clench worthy.

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[CanyonRider]

Back to work on the Beast!

The 2016 season is coming and there is work to do.

Back in Sept we broke the right axle at VIR.
We have a worsening engine oil leak.
We need a windshield defroster if we're gonna run VIR in February.
Need to decide what to do about our ABS speed limiter hack.

Here's our broken axle - pretty sure there are supposed to be some balls in there.

Here you can see the alternator and everything above it is wet with oil.

It looks like a combination of several leaks - the valve cover gasket, the OCV seal and the OCV housing itself is leaking. I've ordered all the parts.

Waitin on parts.

CR

 

[GhostlyShdow]

Waitin on parts.

CR

That's usually the hardest part.

 

[*** ThE FoRk ***]

where did u get the ocv seal?

 

[CanyonRider]

where did u get the ocv seal?

Napa #NOS-10930

Not OEM, but the dimensions a VERY close. I'll let you know how it goes.

CR

 

[*** ThE FoRk ***]

Thanks~!

 

[CanyonRider]

OK got some parts! Got the valve cover off. Here's the right valve cover. You can see the OCV seal is in pretty rough shape - in fact part of it is still on the OCV.

Here's the old seal on the right, the new seal on the left and the Napa part number on the box.

The rubber seal fits very nicely on the OCV. The shell of the seal is not quite as tight in the valve cover as the OEM seal. You still have to tap it in but it doesn't require much force. I added a VERY SMALL amount of RTV in the valve cover where the seal sits. This will provide a little more sealing peace of mind.

Then tap the seal in with a socket that matches the shell.

Flip it over and notice a bit of the RTV squeezed out. Clean it up and don't get any on the rubber seal.

Ready to put it back together.

CR

 

[CanyonRider]

I got the new axle shaft installed with new boots, axle seal and fresh gear lube. Moving to the interior. Our next event is in February. I've run in Feb before and besides being cold in the car with no heat and no windows, its really hard to see with no defrost. So I salvaged this out of an E36 BMW.

It is an all electric heater/blower for the rear window. I bench tested it and it outputs over 100deg air. Awesome! Now we need to mount it.
I removed the dash and steering column and found a place I think will work. I made a bracket that points it straight up to the base of the windshield directly in front of the driver.

I'm planning to install a full rollcage, so I'm not re-installing the dash. Made some more brackets to mount the gauge pod.

Still some cleanup and wiring to do.

CR

 

[CanyonRider]

Ended up doing both valve covers with gaskets and OCV seals. Since the intake was off I figured I'd upgrade the throttle body. I picked up an optimized 3.7L TB (73mm vs 63mm on the 3.0L) - with a broken throttle stop. I also have a stock 3.7L TB for parts.

Here R to L is 3.0L TB, stock 3.7L TB, tapered TB spacer/adapter.

Here is the optimized TB. The TB stop is broke off and stuck inside. The replacement is sitting on top.

The threads are plastic and has thread locker on it - it is not intended to be adjusted or serviced. Inside the plastic threads is a spring and plunger.

I carefully drill out the plastic without damaging the threads. Then use a tap to clean out the remaining plastic.

I apply thread sealer (not locker) and insert the new stop. It is adjusted such that when the butterfly is fully closed, the stop plunger is full depressed. Then we install the TPS from the 3.0L TB.

Install the manifold and TB.

Ready to make a couple more HP.:grin2:

CR

 

[*** ThE FoRk ***]

where did you purchase your tapered TB spacer/adapter?

 

[CanyonRider]

where did you purchase your tapered TB spacer/adapter?

It came with the TB - I assume it was part of the Cordova kit the previous owner purchased. It wouldn't be that hard to make. Just cut it out of a piece if 1/2" plastic and use a chamfer bit in your router to make the taper.


CR

 

[*** ThE FoRk ***]

kool thxs~! What kind of gasket are you using between the TB and spacer?

 

[CanyonRider]

I use FelPro Karropak - I always have some in the shop. It is a treated paper that will withstand coolant, gas & oil. Can be bought in sheets and AutoZone. For the TB, you want thin and compressible. You don't want cork - tends to swell. I've seen guys use cereal box cardboard.


CR

 

[KevinK2]

.... Moving to the interior. Our next event is in February. I've run in Feb before and besides being cold in the car with no heat and no windows, its really hard to see with no defrost. So I salvaged this out of an E36 BMW......

Do you know how many amps this draws? I could use an extra heater to heat my feet, due to medical issue. I found the fan is actually for BMW convertibles, where a wire grid does not work on a plastic rear windshield.

.

 

[CanyonRider]

Do you know how many amps this draws? I could use an extra heater to heat my feet, due to medical issue. I found the fan is actually for BMW convertibles, where a wire grid does not work on a plastic rear windshield.

.

It draws 13.6A. We put one in the Team car too - works great. If you get one that doesn't put any heat out it is most likely the t'stat switch is stuck or dirty. Otherwise it is just a resistor and fan. Open it up, clean the contacts and it should work. The E30 convertibles have them too, but they are much larger.

CR

 

[98se5speed]

...
There was a fuel rail change at some point. The early 6s have a female connection on the fuel rail. The later 6s/Fusions have a male connection. Rather than swap fuel rails, I swap the fuel line that runs from the firewall to the fuel rail. Here are the two different fuel lines. The newer 6/Fusion line on top.

...
CR

Any chance that anyone knows the part number for the newer fuel line? I attempted to get one off a Fusion at the junkyard, but it's hard-connected at the firewall on the Fords. Can't seem to find a listing for the removable version on any OEM Mazda parts website. Thanks for any tips.

Fusion setup, ~2007:

 

[98se5speed]

Never did figure out the Mazda part number for that fuel supply line. Got lucky and nabbed one off an 06 Mazda 6 that showed up at my local u-pull-it yard. So rare to see a newer Mazda 6 in the yard. Glad I saw it soon after it arrived. So awesome that the big yard by me have searchable inventory, which is updated daily.

 

[nignogswog]

hey dude. how were the bushings??did it change sterring feel/tighten up the front end? i have a speed6 and would definitely like to treat the front end.

 

[CanyonRider]

Hey Y'all! I've been off the boards for almost 2yrs, busy racing, riding motorcycles and general life stuff. I'm glad to see there is still strong interest in the Mazda6. I've come to a bit of a crossroads with the Mazda6 trackcar. I've been driving for a race team and occasionally tracking my Mustang, meanwhile the 6 is seeing less and less use. I love the car and have spent years modding it and enjoying it - bought it new in 2003! I really hate to see it go. I guess I'd like to think someone would buy it and continue racing it in either autocross, timetrials, HPDEs, etc, but I know it is not the first car that comes to mind for most track junkies (kinda why I like it so much).


So what to do? Sell it whole (with a butt load of spare parts) or strip it down and sell off whatever parts I can? What do y'all think?

CR

 

[GerryB]

I'd sell it as a package. Why breakup a good thing?

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