[niceguy]

Not to threadjack but I broke down and bought the pump lock ring tool a couple of years back after the plastic ribs on the lock ring started sheering off on my '93 Altima. Same style lock ring and the tool uses a 3/8 ratchet and is adjustable. About $20 through Amazon or Advance Auto Parts.
Lock Technology Gas Tank Fuel Pump Removal Tool LTI940: Advance Auto Parts

Awesome project with the 3.0 CR!

 

[CanyonRider]

.

And, CR has had a taste of RWD on the track in the 580SX, and he likes it.

.

True dat!!!

Besides, we all learned from an early age:

:grin2:


CR

 

[aviator79]

Did you follow Phate's build? He had his 1st 2015 autox with a "front wheel" cam, outside view. But he's avoided a modified class.


.

Ya, I have been following it.

 

[CanyonRider]

Back to our fuel tank problem

When last in the garage we had the fuel tank out. Here's the filthy tank - we cover the opening with blue tape and clean the outside.

Although the outside is clean, the inside still has dirt and fuel in it.

We quickly realize that due to the shape of the tank and the location of the openings, there is no way to rinse and dump the tank out. No matter how you turn it, you can't completely empty it. So . . . . we drill a hole in it. :surprise:

Now we can rinse and drain completely. Clean tank - inside and out!

We use a drain plug kit intended for transmissions:

and plug the hole. Now we can drain the tank anytime we want.

Drop the new fuel pump in - man is that thing white!

Recall what started this mess was the tire rubbing on the filler tube:

I'm waiting on parts to finish putting it all back together. Stay tuned! :wink2:

 

[CanyonRider]

Wow! Where has the summer gone? We've done 4 races in the team car - including a 24hr last weekend. Rode the motorcycle for 2 weeks in NM, but haven't driven the Mazda since April at VIR. Also been cleaning up the garage - hung some cabinets that I scored from someone else's renovation project:

Time to get the Mazda back on track - literally! Here's the schedule for the rest of the year:


9/12-13 Virginia International Raceway in the Mazda
9/19-20 Carolina Motorsports Park in the team car
10/3-4 North Carolina Autocross Championship in the Mazda
10/17-18 Carolina Motorsports Park in the Mazda
12/5-6 Virginia International Raceway in team car


I have a few things to do to get the Mazda ready for VIR - I'll be posting some prep work as we go. Get out there and race those Mazda6's!
CR

 

[CanyonRider]

Last night, I finally got my Canbus Speed Limiter hack working. I have a little cleanup of the wiring to do then I'll post details. No more cutting off at 120mph!!


Here's the list I'm working on in prep for VIR on 9/12:
Back off the camber from -2.5 to -1.5 - With my stiffer springs and swaybars, I found there is so little body roll that I don't need that much static camber. In fact, I'm not getting full use of the tire.
Speed Limiter Hack - Almost done!
Trim rear inner fenders a bit more for tire clearance - Getting just a very small amount of rub.
Revise camera mount - Done
Weld new tiedown hooks on rear frame rails - I moved the tiedowns in the trailer to allow the car to sit further back.
Change oil
Flush brakes


CR

 

[CanyonRider]

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I have to replace the right CV axle. I know you're thinking (because you are an astute reader of this thread) Wait a minute CR. Didn't you just change BOTH axles less than a year ago - about 5 pages back on this thread? Shouldn't axles last longer than brakes and tires?? Why yes. You are correct, sir! Recall my track report back in April, I mentioned the serp belt broke - well I didn't notice it at the track, but the belt cut the CV boot.

Notice in the pic how the belt is right in line with the cut boot.

Got the old one out and ordered a new one:

Now I got a mess of grease to clean up. GRRRR!

CR

 

[e4w]

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I have to replace the right CV axle. I know you're thinking (because you are an astute reader of this thread) Wait a minute CR. Didn't you just change BOTH axles less than a year ago - about 5 pages back on this thread? Shouldn't axles last longer than brakes and tires?? Why yes. You are correct, sir! Recall my track report back in April, I mentioned the serp belt broke - well I didn't notice it at the track, but the belt cut the CV boot.

Notice in the pic how the belt is right in line with the cut boot.

Got the old one out and ordered a new one:

Now I got a mess of grease to clean up. GRRRR!

CR

I'd go with aftermarket axles with LLT warranty= free replacement, but not sure how they would hold up on the track...Lol

 

[CanyonRider]

Speed Limiter Hack

So harken back to last spring when we were talking about defeating the speed limiter:

Speed Limiter Discussion

I have finally gotten around to actually doing it.

DISCLAIMER: This is shared for entertainment purposes only. I do not advise you to modify these systems. I am not responsible for you burning up control modules, making your car unusable or you crashing your car and dying.

Here's what I did - keeping in mind that my intuition nearly makes up for my poor judgement. :grin2:

I unplugged the 28-pin connector to the ABS controller.

I stripped back the harness covering so I could get to the wiring:

After much testing and analysis, I determined there is one wire that when interrupted, the car will continue to accelerate past 120mph. Here is the pin and the wire with blue tape:

I cut the wire and extend the two ends into the drivers compartment:

I ran the wires thru a normally closed pushbutton mounted on the dead pedal:

Re-install the dead pedal in the car:

How it works:
As I approach 100mph, I step on the pushbutton (breaking the circuit to the ABS).
The speedometer drops to zero, the ABS and TCS lights come on.
The car continues to accelerate past 120mph.
As I lift from the throttle, I also release the pushbutton.
The speedo snaps back to life and the ABS/TCS lights go out.

Issues/Risks/Problems/Reasons not to do this:
The wire I found may not be the same for other years and generations.
While the pushbutton is depressed, you have no ABS, EBD or TCS. The big issue is EBD - Electronic Brakeforce Distribution. If you apply the brakes with the PB depressed, you will get equal brake pressure sent to each wheel - locking up the rear wheels sending the car into a spin (ask me how I know).
If something cuts the wires you ran to the PB you will have no ABS, EBD or TCS.
When you release the PB, the TCS is enabled. This is not helpful on the track if you prefer to run with TCS off as I do. You have to reach down (at race speed) and shut it off again. I'm gonna have to figure out how to fix this.

Thats it! Wadaya think??

CR

 

[GhostlyShdow]

Sounds like you solved one problem but kind of created two more. Lol.

 

[phate]

Back off the camber from -2.5 to -1.5 - With my stiffer springs and swaybars, I found there is so little body roll that I don't need that much static camber. In fact, I'm not getting full use of the tire.

I think your car is currently more stiffly sprung than mine, but I've found the same. Two years ago with stockish suspension I was around -2.3°, then found I could be around -2° with the new spring setup (roughly triple spring stiffness front and rear). Went to poly LCA bushings (the last ones I changed) and had to pull out even more. I need to get it on a rack to see where it actually ended up, but probably somewhere around -1.7° to -1.8°. Makes for some great braking.

I've been working with accelerometer data in my MS6 to improve my driving and to assess setup changes. Even on street tires, this chassis has some good potential!

 

[CanyonRider]

Yeah I'm anxious to see if I get increased grip - we'll find out on the 12th!


Just for reference here are spring rates I have run over the years:


OEM M6s - 220f/150r
Eibach Pros - 250f/200r
Race springs - 700f/500r


Huge difference when I jumped to linear race springs. Its a stiff ride, but you can really lower the car and the grip is awesome.


CR

 

[phate]

Yeah I'm anxious to see if I get increased grip - we'll find out on the 12th!


Just for reference here are spring rates I have run over the years:


OEM M6s - 220f/150r
Eibach Pros - 250f/200r
Race springs - 700f/500r


Huge difference when I jumped to linear race springs. Its a stiff ride, but you can really lower the car and the grip is awesome.


CR

How did it go?


I got my car back on the rack and confirmed I was at -1.7° camber up front during my last outing (asphalt surface). Probably need a little more testing to determine what's best for it vs concrete.

 

[CanyonRider]

Holy crap! Next event is on VIR Grand West course:

http://virnow.com/files/2014/03/GrandCourseMap2014.jpg

OMG it looks like awesome sauce! I've never driven this course. I better get the Mazda out of the trailer and into the garage - need to be ready for late February! Stay tuned!!

CR

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

Wow that looks like a fun four miles!

 

[GerryB]

That'll be the busiest four miles you've ever driven.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[CanyonRider]

I've heard people talk about T13 - 110mph entry, hard right, down hill, off camber . . . its called "The Bitch"

Can't wait!
CR

 

[GerryB]

Oh, Bitch is indeed a bitch. And the Climbing Esses. Oh my...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[CanyonRider]

Yeah, I have to work up my speed on the uphill esses every time. Takes courage to run them as fast as the car is capable. Back in september, a Cayman R went into the tires there. I spun at the top several years ago. Fun, but unforgiving.