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Sounds like a great idea... question: if you're above the speed limit at WOT, then let go of the throttle while still above the limit, and then step back on the pedal partially (not WOT), you would be denied acceleration, right? I'm not sure if that's a valid use case... in any case you can overcome it by going WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #522
Sounds like a great idea... question: if you're above the speed limit at WOT, then let go of the throttle while still above the limit, and then step back on the pedal partially (not WOT), you would be denied acceleration, right? I'm not sure if that's a valid use case... in any case you can overcome it by going WOT.
True and good point. Of the tracks I currently run on, Only VIR has straights long enough (front is 3000', back is 4000') for my 190hp, 4-door to get up to 120mph. I don't let off the gas till the end. CMP could pose the problem you suggest (if my car were faster). The back straight is 3000' between T8 & T11. The kink at T10 requires most cars to lift momentarily and modulate the gas. I typically get up to about 105mph before lifting at the kink and then getting back in the gas.

I guess you could put a steering wheel PB in series with the WOT switch and use the PB in those cases you need to modulate the gas while over 120mph. Easy enough to do if it becomes a problem.

Thanks,
CR
 

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I guess you could put a steering wheel PB in series with the WOT switch and use the PB in those cases you need to modulate the gas while over 120mph. Easy enough to do if it becomes a problem.
Wouldn't you want it in parallel?

I recall you have a 5 speed, based on the videos. Would a 6 speed help and be possible?

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Discussion Starter #524
Wouldn't you want it in parallel?

I recall you have a 5 speed, based on the videos. Would a 6 speed help and be possible?

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In series, either would interrupt power to the ABS. In parallel you would have to press both to interrupt the ABS.

I've considered a 6-speed and maybe I'll go that route one day. For now, I've dumped enough money in this tranny to run it for a few more seasons.

Just put the new clutch in today:





Gotta get it back together now. :p

CR
 

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Brain fade. You are right ... series.

To add a turbo at 5-6 psi would create a big power jump. Guys did it on 2L Saab 900's, since the turbo head was a bolt on. Using one of these is a popular way to piggy back fuel control:

Apexi SAFC Air Flow Converter from AlamoMotorsports

Thoughts for your next MC trip. I put about 20K on my '76 Triumph Trident, and when it would not start one season, so I got a 750 Suzuki and put 22K on that. The drummer for Rush lost his wife, and put 5000 miles on his BMW solo ...

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Discussion Starter #526
Ram-Air Induction!

One of the issues I have is the location of my air filter. You can just see the filter element located directly in front of the tire.



Although this worked well when there was a fender liner between it and the tire, I find it is not optimal w/o some protection from road debris coming off the tire.

I'm thinking about modifying the headlight assembly to be an air intake. What do you think?

CR
After I trimmed the fenders and added flares, the fender liners were completely removed here's what is looks like now:



CR
After the last track event, the tire-side of the filter was filthy (no surprise). I decided I could get the filter out of the dirt, get some cold air and some Ram-Air action all at once.

I cut out the back of the headlight assembly and removed the lamp and reflector.





Then cut some of the plastic shield away.



I got a 6" air intake scoop and cut it down to 4" and added a rubber coupler:





Here's the intake scoop with the coupler fitted into the headlight assembly. Notice the throttlebody above - pretty straight shot.



Here's the enclosed filter and 3" tube to the TB:





View from front:



Hood closed:



I have a little more trimming and tweeking to do. I need to fab a bracket to hold the filter solidly in place. I'll need to add some wire screen over the scoop to keep the large debris out. Also, I'll need to disconnect the scoop during rain and suck air from the engine compartment.

I think I'm gonna like it!!

CR
 

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Love your creativity! How does this effect the limitation of incoming air? IE not being able to pull air from all sides of the filter and having to pull directly from the tip of the filter?


From my iPwn.
 

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Discussion Starter #528

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I see! My bad the way I saw it from the pic was as If the black tip were actually the hollow center of the filter. Makes more sense with the cone like picture lol


From my iPwn.
 

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I LOVE it! I did the same thing with my old 2g MX-6. Its a great way to get ram air...not to mention it gets a TON of compliments. :)
Are you planning on sealing the rest of the headlight or go full-function race style?
 

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Excellent Idea !

I mentioned it before, but it would be nice to test the system for the ram pressure, and any pressure drops in the intake system. The tool is a Dwyer differential pressure gauge, typically found in labs. I used one to fix a couple of restrictions in my tracked Rx7-TT intake system.

Looks like this #2001 , but the range on the #2030 is 30" wc full scale (about 1 psi)




Dwyer® Magnehelic® Differential Pressure Gage, 2030, Range: 0-30" w.c.: Industrial Pressure Gauges: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


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Discussion Starter #532
From my last track report, I mentioned I had developed a vibration in the drivetrain under acceleration. We discovered the drivers side axle had a split boot:



The passengers side axle was weeping grease out of the end of the boot because the clamp was loose. And the joint shaft carrier bearing bracket was shot - the bearing cup was separating from the rubber isolation material.



So we replaced the drivers side axle with a new one:



We disassembled the joint shaft and here are all the new parts - L to R : bearing bracket, bearing, old shaft, two seals (one for each side).



First press the bearing into the bracket (pressing on the outer race):





There is no shoulder or stop for the bearing to sit on, you press it into the bracket until it is 7.5mm deep.



Then press the tranny side seal (yes, they are different)





Then the wheel side seal:





Then apply a bit of grease under the lip of each seal. Next you press the joint shaft into the bearing while supporting the inner race from below. Support the inner race with a short pipe that is the diameter of the inner race and that will fit inside the seal you just pressed.





Reinstall the dust shields on each end:



Finally, slide it into the new passengers side axle



And we're ready to install it in the car!

CR
 

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Nice work, were these the stock axles? A few years ago I had to replace my pass side axle because of a loose clamp. I went aftermarket after this issue.

sent from another galaxy
 

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Discussion Starter #534
They were aftermarket units that I installed back in 2007 after about 140k miles IIRC. They've probably been removed and installed a dozen times over the years. I went with reman Mazda units this time. We'll see how they hold up.
CR
 

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Discussion Starter #535
AWR Motor Mounts

Finally installed stiffer motor mounts. I was getting significant drivetrain lash especially when running near redline in third gear, then having to get on the brakes. The short straight between T3 & T4 at VIR is the best example.

So I picked up a used right side mount from a 6Club member (Thanks!):



Then I ordered a new left side mount from RPM. They accidentally sent me the MS6 mount (AWR-6301-MTS) - which I didn't realize until I nearly had it installed. It fits the framerail, but doesn't fit the tranny bracket (its too narrow). I called and they overnighted me the AWR-6301-MT. This one is a two-piece mount that re-uses part of the stock frame bracket. Unfortunately, this one fits the tranny bracket but doesn't line up with the holes on the frame rail. Sorry, I didn't take a pic, but I saw a pic a while back (either on here or 6Crew) where someone else had the same problem and their mechanic just welded it to the frame rail.

I didn't want to do that and I like the MS6 bracket because it is one piece, so I made up an aluminum spacer and it fits like a glove.

One piece construction - fits the frame perfectly:


Aluminum spacer:


I'll be sending the other back to RPM.
CR
 

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Discussion Starter #536
Actually I did snap a pic:



No amount of wiggling or prying was gonna get these holes lined up.
CR
 

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Discussion Starter #537
I've got a couple more autocross events to run this fall and then we're done for the year. Next season might be very interesting. I've been contacted by a team that has expressed an interest in me driving for them next season. We're still talking about the number of races, travel requirements and other details. I would be driving a RWD V8 - very different from the 6, but I've got seat time in my Mustang and Firebird - so there shouldn't be much of a learning curve.

My hope is to keep the 6 running and drive it at local HPDE events and continue improving as a driver.

See you at the track!
CR
 

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My AWR trans mount wasn't that far off... I did have to install all of the bolts loosely until they were all in, then tighten them. That doesn't look like it would work for you though.
 

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... Next season might be very interesting. I've been contacted by a team that has expressed an interest in me driving for them next season. We're still talking about the number of races, travel requirements and other details. I would be driving a RWD V8....
CR
Wow, that's big news! Congratulations! Any hints on what series? Someone was watching at VIR?

A guy named Bill Lester and I were in contact on a 3rd gen Rx7 forum, as we both were doing HPDE's. Sold him some parts. He was picked up by NASCAR for a bunch of years, and co-drove special non-Nascar races like the 24 hrs at Daytona, and 12 hrs Sebring.

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I saw some V8's competeing in the TUDOR United SportsCar Championship. And I think they race VIR.

And the NASA series includes muscle cars and turbo 4's.

Also, there is a V8 series that stops at VIR:

 
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