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Give him a desk and a ridiculous pension and we could call him MR. CR. :)
Hahaha I could see it now; walking into his office for some AutoX advice, and he begins throwing out numbers and calculations lol :p all that's missing is a gold plated name plate emblazoned with "Mr. CanyonRider"
 

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With the engine and radiator installed and pretty well hooked up we turn our attention to the front suspension.

There is no easier way to mount the front swaybar than when the frame is on the floor.



As I prepared to replace all the rubber control arm bushings with new poly ones, I figured I'd check the lower ball joints for wear. Mazda says the rotational torque should be between 1.2 and 2.2Nm. Sadly they all came in at less the 0.5Nm. Looks like I'll be buying new lower control arms. I wonder if they are available without bushings?



Notice the inner bushing sleeve for the upper control arm is offset to give us a bit more negative camber. With the adjustable SPC upper ball joints, I'm hoping to run about 2.5deg neg. :D



Stay tuned as we continue make a pretty good suspension system work at its best!
Should I replace both lower control arms bushings, passenger side is the bad one and the driver's side to avoid issues in the future? Car has 141,XXX miles. I'm going with OEM. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #403
Should I replace both lower control arms bushings, passenger side is the bad one and the driver's side to avoid issues in the future? Car has 141,XXX miles. I'm going with OEM. Thanks
If you have access to a press, It's not that bad a job. You'll need to get the car re-aligned when you're done, so it probably makes sense to do them all at once and pay for just one alignment.

The OEM bushings are available from RockAuto for under $15ea.
Good luck,
CR
 

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Discussion Starter #404
I just spent the last two hours gazing at this thread. I don't think I've blinked. I'm not usually into chopping up newer cars in good shape but you've done a remarkable job. There's a huge difference between the cars that are done right and the ones that aren't. Clearly, you know what you're doing, I have a lot of respect for you and your car. Thanks for the good read...I'll be checking back to see your progress!
Thanks for the kind remarks. :blush: I confess to being an incurable tinkerer.

I noticed the Bronco in your sig - reminds me of a similar project I did 15yrs ago. A '86 Ranger 4x4 extended cab with a balanced & blue-printed 5.0L (making a stupid amount of HP), C6, 12" of lift and 38" mud tires - the thing was a beast. On the first test drive, I broke the rear drive shaft in two - oops! Wish I'd kept that rig.

Thanks for following along.

CR
 

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If you have access to a press, It's not that bad a job. You'll need to get the car re-aligned when you're done, so it probably makes sense to do them all at once and pay for just one alignment.

The OEM bushings are available from RockAuto for under $15ea.
Good luck,
CR
Can you please tell me what press to get?

The Rock Auto bushings are the same as the OEM from Mazda?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #406
Can you please tell me what press to get?
I use a 12ton from Harbor Freight. For under $150, it does an adequate job. The press plates that come with it suck, so I've bought better ones. You'll also need an assortment of dies. If you only need a press once in a blue moon, its cheaper to pay a machine shop $50 to press the bushings for you.

The Rock Auto bushings are the same as the OEM from Mazda?
They have several manufacturers to chose from. I tend to stick with Moog, they're every bit as good as OEM.

Good luck,
CR
 

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Discussion Starter #407 (Edited)
Lower rear control arm mod

Remember a couple of pages back we modified the stock sway bar to get it a bit stiffer. I ran the 27mm RacingBeat swaybar for a year and it made the car oversteer far too much. Recall from your chassis engineering class that torsional stiffness increases by the power of 4 as the diameter increases. So 27/19=1.42 then raised to the power of 4 equals 4.08 - therefore the RB bar is four times stiffer than the stock bar.



Torsional stiffness is also directly proportional to arm length, so my modified stock bar can be adjusted from 14cm to 10cm - or 30% stiffer than stock.

In order to use the 4cm of adjustment, we need different endlinks that can pivot laterally and we need to modify the lower control arm to allow the pivot.

Here is the stock end link that allows very little lateral movement. In the control arm you can see a ball type installed. Also the hole in the top of the control arm must be enlarged to allow the end link to lean or pivot.



Here the hole has been enlarged and the adjustable endlink is in the upright position.



Here is the endlink leaned back as it will be when using the adjustable sway bar.



Here everything is installed with the endlink at the end of the sway bar (the stock position).



Here is the endlink slid back 4cm for 30% more sway bar stiffness.



Next AutoX is Sunday - time to try it out. I'll get some outdoor pics with the new flares too.

CR
 

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Discussion Starter #408
Got the suspension put back together so its time to roll outside and get a few pics of the finished fender flares.











Tell me what ya think.

CR
 

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Other than the yellow stripes allong the fender it looks good. the first pic kinda looks like an rx8 :p
 
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Looks good man, but quick question: I thought you had the 2003 mazda 6s? It looks like you've got an 06-08...unless you've already covered this way back, in a bit confuzzled.

Beastmode for sure though, I like the flares and yellow welt touch!
 

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Discussion Starter #412
For those interested in the flares, they are made by Ala-Plast in Poland. They have a website that they sell products from, but its not that user friendly. They are now selling these on Ebay for $99 and another $70 for shipping.

Here's their Ebay link:

They are available in 2"

Fender Flares s13 5cm 2 inch Set Nissan 200 SX BMW E30 E36 | eBay

And 3"
Fender Flares s13 7cm 3 inch Set Nissan 200 SX BMW E30 E36 | eBay

They are listed as fitting the Nissan 200sx and BMW E30. There are other manufacturers that make flares for the 200sx, I've test-fit their templates and they are not even close to fitting our cars.

Shipping is about 5-6 weeks.

Couple of install notes:
I don't have any inner-fender liners so it was one less thing to deal with. If you are keeping your fender-liners, the rear is no problem because the liner is not attached to the fender lip. Remove the liner, install the flare, trim the liner and re-install.
The front is a little tougher since it is attached to the fender lip. After you trim the sheet metal for the flare there will be nothing to support the liner at the lip. You can probably use some strips of sheet metal to bridge from the trimmed fender to the trimmed liner that could be hidden under the flare.

Good luck,
CR
 

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Discussion Starter #413
Looks good man, but quick question: I thought you had the 2003 mazda 6s? It looks like you've got an 06-08...unless you've already covered this way back, in a bit confuzzled.

Beastmode for sure though, I like the flares and yellow welt touch!
No, it's the same car. The only difference is I've removed the side skirts - it does change the look. After I re-work the side-exit exhaust for more ground clearance, I may put them back on.

CR
 

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Oh ok, your grill and lower fog light mesh seems 06-08 style. Weird...so have you tested how the flares and modded sway bar make the car feel?
 

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So if you’ve been following along, we added flares in anticipation of being able to lower the car while still utilizing all of the available suspension travel. The next step is spring selection - and a bit of chassis engineering ..... After some measuring and calculating, I came up with WR=0.5SR (I think @KevinK2 has developed a model of our front suspension - perhaps he can compare his findings)...

Anyhow, this is what I’m working on presently - the wheels are always turning. :D
Now that I have some time I'll fire up the Excel model of the car's suspension. Watching the latest VIR videos, I can see the LSD is in, allowing you to downshift at the corners w/o spinning the inside wheel in the lower gear! But as you found, timing that downshift takes some practice.

I saw the corner you spun at, perhaps holding too much speed into that corner. I also watched a Viper take the same long s's, and it was no surprise how fast he accellerated through that effective straight.

If the 24mm RSB is not enough, consider adding length to the bar levers, as you did with the 19mm, and put a spacer under the 2 pivot brackets.

Regarding spring rate vs wheel rate, it turns out that if the MR (motion ratio) is .5 based on simple lever lengths, the wheel rate is equal to the spring rate over the MR^2. For 800 lb springs, the wheel rate is 200 lb/in. Just combine a few small equations about deflection, spring rate, and force, at the spring and at the tire/wheel. The MR^2 should pop out in solving for the rate at the wheel, = Fw/Deflw

PS Glad you added race videos to your signiture links :)

.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanyonRider
..... both of my off track excursions last year were because of the rear breaking loose. I've done all I can with the 27mm rear swaybar to get it a bit softer. CR

Did you consider making ~ 3/4" spacers for under the pivot bushing brackets, then extending the 27mm bar arms and adding a 2nd, softer hole, making the lever 3/4" longer? The spacer will keep the vertical link vertical, and not severely angled.

Some swaybar data off my Excel SS for the rear swaybar

The bar stiffness is as calculated by Puhn's formula, which I derived and found that it is a "bench test" rate, where you bolt the pivot blocks to a flat bench, pin one end of an arm, and load the free arm. The rate is determined by the force and deflection at the free lever hole during the bench test.

This Puhn rate is doubled when the car is stable in a constant radius curve.

Dia --- Lgth ----- lb/in

27 ---- 6.25 ---- 1222
27 ---- 7.00 ----- 962 <--- longer arm
24 ---- 6.25 ----- 736
19 ---- 4.80 ----- 521 <--- 30% shorter arm
19 ---- 6.25 ----- 300

I think your best rear bar will be the 24 Progress, or the lengthened RB

ex-racerX

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I haven't been on here at all. But your post is one of the best ever. I'm putting my speed6 on the track again real soon and your write up is on the money!

Thanks bro!
 

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So like many others I've been following CR on here for a while, but I hadn't checked the OP of the thread in a long time.

CR has arranged all the most important posts into an organized list on the first page.

Time to stick the thread so everyone can see and learn from this whole endeavor. :)
 

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Very cool project u got going I spent like an hour looking at this. But u need to rep the mazda6club :D u should get a sticker and put it on your car.
 
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