[CanyonRider]

So is your motor just hanging there by the two upper mounts?

Yeah that's all that supports it normally. The dog bone just keeps if from twisting.

I'll have to provide additional support for the engine when I separate it from the tranny because the upper left mount will be removed.

PS. You're (still) the man.

Thanks. :blush:

 

[xtmesisx]

Yeah that's all that supports it normally. The dog bone just keeps if from twisting.

I'll have to provide additional support for the engine when I separate it from the tranny because the upper left mount will be removed.

Woooord. Good to know when I eventually do my sway bar bushings. I was a bit concerned about dropping the subframe and having the motor dangling over me.

PS. Are you on stock mounts? Or the AWR Trifecta?

Thanks. :blush:

 

[e4w]

PS. You're (still) the man.

This^

Hey CR, I have 2/3 mounts, both 88 duro AWR (dogbone+ upper trans). Would you recommend the oem motor mount to be replaced as well? didn't know if the two much stiffer mounts would kill the oem motor mount..lol
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[CanyonRider]

I have only the AWR dogbone - which does a great job of controlling engine twist. I haven't had any trouble with the upper mounts so I haven't sprung for new ones. I can see the benefit of the stiffer upper mounts for drag racing due to the continual heavy shock loads, For what I do, road racing, I'm not sure there is a significant benefit. Remember road racing is all about being smooooth.

 

[CanyonRider]

Old tranny is out. New tranny is in:

Time for a lunch break.

 

[e4w]

I have only the AWR dogbone - which does a great job of controlling engine twist. I haven't had any trouble with the upper mounts so I haven't sprung for new ones. I can see the benefit of the stiffer upper mounts for drag racing due to the continual heavy shock loads, For what I do, road racing, I'm not sure there is a significant benefit. Remember road racing is all about being smooooth.

I guess i'm a bit rough, I like to drag my 6 every now and then.

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[CanyonRider]

The big question is: Can I get this tranny swapped in by next Friday?

Apparently YES! DONE! All I can say is LSD=AWESOME!

Not sure what the recommended breakin is for a new LSD - I'm thinking 20 or so Autocross runs then hit the Track!

 

[CanyonRider]

I'm really beginning to regret ripping out my heater core - probably didn't save that much weight. Forecast Sunday is low 40s - Brrr! I may have to keep the truck running in the pits to stay warm.

Hoping to get 10-15 autocross runs on the car and see if everything holds together.

 

[Byakuya]

I'm really beginning to regret ripping out my heater core - probably didn't save that much weight. Forecast Sunday is low 40s - Brrr! I may have to keep the truck running in the pits to stay warm.

Hoping to get 10-15 autocross runs on the car and see if everything holds together.

Low 40's 'round here is T-shirt weather - you Carolina fellers need to toughen up a little

Good luck on the runs, can't wait to see how it goes.

 

[CanyonRider]

Low 40's 'round here is T-shirt weather - you Carolina fellers need to toughen up a little

A fella's gotta keep his wittle feetsies warm. I've been in the south too long - my New England friends and family must be so ashamed.

Good luck on the runs, can't wait to see how it goes.

Thanks! I can't wait to try out the new LSD!

 

[Byakuya]

I've been in the south too long - my New England friends and family must be so ashamed.

Did not know of your New England heritage. Wicked pissah!

A fella's gotta keep his wittle feetsies warm.

:rofl: Wow, picturing you say that as you're tearing up a track just made my night. Sig Quoted.

 

[CanyonRider]

This seems to have become a popular thread and it has gotten pretty long. So for quicker access to key modifications, I figured a list of links would be nice. So I added it to the very first post. Check it out - I think all the links work. Enjoy!

CR

 

[CanyonRider]

Teaser!

:seeya:

 

[mmceorange]

Damn those are some wide wheels! Oh, and the flare are kinda cool I guess...

 

[ctmazda]

:seeya:

Fender flares??? Maybe the cheap(er) solution to my rusting rears and also allowing more aggressive fitment at the same time. NOW WHERE'D YOU GET EM YOU CRAZY GEARHEAD! Seriously, I really want a set or to pay you to make some for me lol.


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[TiGraySpeed6]

Let the fender trimming begin!

 

[CanyonRider]

In our latest AutoX shakedown, we discovered some slop in one of the control arm bushings. You may recall last spring we replaced all the front control arm bushings (10 of them) with poly from Whiteline. Although I'm disappointed to find one not performing, I'm not entirely surprised - I had my reservations about the design of this bushing when I was installing it.

All of the factory bushings are bonded shell and sleeve type - the rubber is bonded to the shell and the sleeve and it is pressed into the control arm. The Whiteline bushings for the upper control arm and lower trailing control arm are similar - poly bonded to the shell and pressed into the control arm. The sleeve is machine fit and allowed to rotate freely to avoid binding or pre-load.

Upper control arm

Lower trailing control arm

The Whiteline bushings for the lower leading control arm have no shell. They are a two piece flange type bushing that slides into the control arm and then the sleeve slides in. This design may be OK for the strut bushing (the one near the ball joint) but certainly not for the frame bushing.

Here's a comparison

Here's a camparison installed in the CA

The Whiteline bushings did not appear to be worn, but there seems to be some deformation of the bushing that connects to the sub-frame. I'm sure my wide sticky tires impart much more load on these bushings than a typical street setup. So now the poly doesn't fit TIGHT in the CA and the sleeve doesn't fit TIGHT in the poly so the cumulative slop is unacceptable.

I haven't had any trouble with the other Whiteline bushings, but I've gone back to factory rubber for the LLCA.

So if you are thinking of getting these bushings, I would recommend the uppers and lower trailing, but not the lower leading.
CR

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

Really REALLY appreciate getting this kind of feedback on the parts you run CR!

Thank you!

 

[CanyonRider]

Our long term plans include adjustable spring perches so we can lower the car for proper track cred. Also in the last AutoX we had a bit of tire rub - nothing serious, but we should address it.

Our current condition - 275/35s on 18X10, +40, -2.5deg camber. Here's our tire clearance in the front:

With suspension near full compression:

It currently doesn't rub, but you can see it we lower the car, it certainly will. The rear is a little tighter at the fender lip and rubs slightly under full compression.

Here is the inside clearance:

I don't thing you can get any closer than that! Notice that the 275s are actually stretched slightly. I'd like to run 285s because they are a more common size and they fit the wheel better, but they would definitely rub the knuckle.

So the plan is the run 5mm spacers on the front to provide enough clearance for 285s at the knuckle; and create more room under the fender by trimming and adding flares.

Most of the "universal" flares on the market are either far to small for the width of our wheel opening or they are very short and just cover the top of the tire. After MUCH searching, I think I've found flares that will work. They match the fender arch very well - all the way around. I will provide full details after the install.

CR

 

[Byakuya]

Daaym that's a tight fit. Those flares look pretty nice how they are.

Anyone else like the fact that he has it on a lift AND on jack stands? Lucky bastard.