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Discussion Starter #181
Well we have the rear suspension complete - shocks, springs, swaybar, wheel bearings, wheel studs, rotors, Hawk pads, SS lines.



Back to the front we install adjustable endlinks on the swaybar.



Although a big brake upgrade is not in the budget right now, there's no reason not to get as much performance as possible from the brakes we have. Ducted cooling will help.





When the rotors get bigger, the 3" duct will cover the entire rotor surface.

Heading to VMP in the morning with the Bullitt. It's good to have a backup racecar. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #182
VMP Autocross

VMP was was cold and breezy - not sure it hit 40deg. The course was designed by Autocross Legend and 7-time National Champion Sam Strano. He was laying down some very fast times in his Z06.

Although the Mazda didn't make the trip - I was able to test the video and data acquisition setup I'll be using in the Mazda for future track events. Below is a youtube link of one run - I picked a run with a spin for entertainment value. :) Couple of observations: The Bullitt generates wheel hop under hard acceleration which causes the camera to vibrate - shouldn't have that problem in the Mazda. The setup is temporarily mounted to the headrest of the passengers seat - again not the most rigid mounting system. The result from the wheel hop and the seat flexibility is the video shakes at times and the G-force meter jumps all over the place. The camera has some built-in stability control, but the G-force meter obviously doesn't. I'll be welding up a rigid mount on the rollbar of the Mazda, hopefully for better results.

The g-force (lateral, braking & aceleration) can be plotted on a timeline and compared from lap-to-lap, but the data isn't very good because of the seat-mount.

SpinRun.mp4 - YouTube

Anyway, hopefully we'll get the Mazda back out there soon!
 

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Looks great, now that air ducking wount bind up when turning? And when ever your readly i got a zx2 s/r that needs to be setup for racing. Lol no rush.
 

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Discussion Starter #185 (Edited)
Looks good, I would be worried about that ducting melting.
I know it looks like plastic but it is a wire reinforced woven fiberglass fabric impregnated with silicone rubber rated for 550deg F. It's used in the aircraft field. It should be fine around the engine and tranny - just keep it away from the exhaust.

Also, may want to look into a Power steering cooler. possibly the best $20 mod I have done to my car.
Yeah, I been thinkin about that. Thanks.

Looks great, now that air ducking wount bind up when turning?
Its very flexible and the spring steel reinforcing keeps its shape.

And when ever your readly i got a zx2 s/r that needs to be setup for racing. Lol no rush.
I have an endless list ahead of me - but you can do it. Best way to learn is to jump right in!
 

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I know it looks like plastic but it is a wire reinforced woven fiberglass fabric impregnated with silicone rubber rated for 550deg F. It's used in the aircraft field. It should be fine around the engine and tranny - just keep it away from the exhaust.
yep I have looked it at that stuff at Amazon hose before. I debated making my own steel braid brake lines and using braided lines for different components in the engine bay (trans cooler, PS cooler, PCV, ect)
 

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Discussion Starter #187
Just about done fiddling with brake ducts.

Here's a shot showing how I trimmed the backing plate and riveted the 3" flange to it.



Then we cut a hole in the grill panel and riveted another flange to it.





Couple of shots with race rubber installed.





Hoping to set this thing on 4 wheels today and roll it outside. :thumbup:
 

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Lol :p I would love to jump in but I work 60hrs a week for pennis! And I think that ducking is cool ive thought of useing it for like ram air ducking.
 

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Looks awesome. too bad there isnt more room around the backof the rotor....the duct is more effective when it is pointed towards the center of the rotor and beneath or slightly "trailing" the caliper. Is there any room to move it closer or to build a deflector to point some air to the rotor vent inlets?
 

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I did a similar setup on my s2000 with the hose right before the caliper. The ducts make a big difference and you can tell when the heat coming off the rear rotors is much higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #191 (Edited)
In for a sound clip of this.
As requested! It was a little chilly this morning - 37deg - hence the vapor (not smoke).

Mazda6Clip.mov - YouTube


Looks awesome. too bad there isnt more room around the backof the rotor....the duct is more effective when it is pointed towards the center of the rotor and beneath or slightly "trailing" the caliper. Is there any room to move it closer or to build a deflector to point some air to the rotor vent inlets?
Unfortunately, not alot of room. Would be great if the caliper were behind the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #192
Finally!

Well the car is just about ready for the track. Washed it up this morning and took it for a spin. I think I'm REALLY gonna like this thing on the track!







285/30-18s :D




Upcoming schedule:
Tech inspection - 2/11
Auto-X @ VMP 2/12
Test-n-Tune 2/19

If the car is ready after the above dates, I plan to head back to VIR Late Feb or early March. Let's see if we can get thru the season without breaking anything!
 

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What wheels are u planning on running in the future?
 

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Discussion Starter #195
What wheels are u planning on running in the future?
I seem to have a growing collection: 16x8, 17x7 and 18x8.5. The wheels on it now are my spare Mustang wheels - 18x8.5, +50. I have a set of hub centric rings to get them from 70.3 to 67.1. I will use them this season with 255/35s. Ultimately, I'd like to run 18x10s - just waiting to find a good craigslist deal. :)

Here's a closeup of the mustang wheel and my homemade camber gauge. :D

 

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Discussion Starter #197
why 18s? I would want at least a little more rubber..... hell I might even go down to 16x10 and run some fat tires.
Sorry - not sure I follow. How does 16x10 provide more rubber than 18x10?

I like the idea of going to 16s because I could go with a shorter tire if needed and 16s are cheaper than 18s for a given width. The primary reason for going to 18s is tire availability. There are so many more manufacturers offering so many more widths in 18s than 16s.
 
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