This seems to have become a popular thread and it has gotten pretty long. So for quicker access to key modifications, I figured a list of links would be nice. So here ya go:
Adding Lightness (gutting the car) starts here
Relocating battery to the trunk
Rollbar, race seats, harnesses
First track day & blown engine
Adding lightness to the hood
Solid front subframe bushings
09 Fusion motor swap
Adding mechanical gauges
Adding front tow ring
Poly bushings in front control arms; eccentric upper control arm bushings
ARP wheel studs, new wheel bearings, SPC adjustable ball joints
Side exit exhaust
Bilsteins, Eibachs, SS brake lines, adjustable rear swaybar v1.0
Brake cooling ducts
285/30 on 18x8.5 +50
Weigh-in
DIY Alignment
Adding more rear camber
Adjustable rear swaybar v2.0
Dyno Pull
2nd track report
Pedal covers
3rd track report
Speed6 brake upgrade
275/35 on 18x10 +40
Limited slip differential install
Adjustable rear swaybar v3.0
Fender Flares
Adjustable rear spring perches
Solid rear subframe bushings
Converting Bilsteins to coilovers and modified upper shock mount
Rear Subframe Swap
Setting Corner Weights and Ride Height
Track Report 4/5/14 @ VIR
SPEC Stage 2+ Hybrid Clutch
RamAir Induction
New Axles and JointShaft Bearing
New Motor Mounts
Fender Flares v2
It has been over three years since I started a thread, so I figure I’m due.
I’m not sure how other people buy cars, but when I buy a car it is with the full knowledge that one day down the road it will be a dedicated track car. So it was, when I bought the ’03 Mazda6 as a daily driver – relegating the SHO to track duty. I still remember walking into the Mazda Dealer in February of 2003 with my race helmet and asking to test drive a 6s with no sunroof so I could check the headroom.
With the exception of the occasional autocross, the 6 has been a daily driver. Well the 6’s day in the sun has finally arrived. The SHO track car is gone and the Mazda6 has been replaced as a daily driver by yet another future track car. We will now prepare the 6 for full-time flogging. Having done this before, I will share a couple lessons learned:
1. You can’t turn a pig into a race car, but you can spend a lot of money building a really fast pig. This was true with the SHO and I expect it to be true with the 6. I don’t expect to run with the Shelbys, M3s and 911s, just to be one of the fastest FWD-4Doors on the road course.
2. Before we spend money on two-piece carbon fiber rotors, double adjustable shocks, UDPs, and coilovers, we need to shed as much weight as possible – making the car less pig-like.
So here is the starting point:
2003 Mazda 6s, 5-speed, 190k Miles
Mods:
2006 engine – 70k miles
Long tube headers
CAI
Lightweight Flywheel
Kevlar clutch
Battery in trunk
Not a bad start.
Current Weight analysis – 1/4 tank of gas, no driver:
Total weight: 3160lbs
Front weight: 58.6%
Left weight: 50.5%
Cross weight: 48.9%
The total weight looks to be about a hundred pounds below the published curb weight - I attribute that to the elimination of the cast iron manifolds, pre-cats and the light flywheel. I’m surprised the left and cross weights are so close to 50% - I’m sure moving the battery from the left front to the right rear had a significant impact.
Goal – including driver:
Total weight: As little as possible - hopefully under 2500lbs
Front weight: 50%
Left weight: 50%
Cross weight: 50%
I say “Goal” as an ideal target – we will not likely achieve. FWD cars are always weight biased to the front and most of the weight we shed will be behind the front wheels. We might be able to hit the 50% L/R goal by moving some weight around. Cross weights will change as we shed lbs, but afterwards they can only be adjusted with coilovers.
Let the stripping begin! If you are in need of any interior parts (or anything else you see come off the car), shoot me a PM and I’ll get you a price. I plan to sell or Ebay as much as I can to fund my habit.
Here’s what is coming out:
Trunk liners
Seats
Console
Carpet & pad
Headliner
Trim
Radio
Speakers
Dash
Airbags
Door panels
Window motors
Glass (except windshield)
Trunk lid reinforcing (keep the skin)
Trunk hinges
Rear doors and hinges (except skins)
Exhaust (behind headers)
Sound deadening
Heat shields
A/C compressor, evaporator, accumulator
Bumper bars (keep bumper covers)
Hood reinforcing
Front fender reinforcing
After it is striped, we’ll weigh again before adding the roll cage, fire suppression, transponder, race seats, harnesses, etc.
I’ll post pics along the way for your viewing pleasure.
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