Hhhhmmmmm... so you just picked up this '04 Mazda6. If I were you I would "diversify" and put some of your money towards a new set of springs and struts/shocks, and brakes.
Performance upgrades, need help!
Hi there,
I recently bought a 04 mazda 6 3.0 and I'm looking to put some stuff into it to add some hp. I'm thinking of getting a downpipe,headers,exhaust system, intake system, throttle body, front and rear strut bars, short throw shifter.
Has anyone done any of this to theirs? I need to know good places to purchase them from and any ideas.
Thanks
I recently bought a 04 mazda 6 3.0 and I'm looking to put some stuff into it to add some hp. I'm thinking of getting a downpipe,headers,exhaust system, intake system, throttle body, front and rear strut bars, short throw shifter.
Has anyone done any of this to theirs? I need to know good places to purchase them from and any ideas.
Thanks
21 - 40 of 71 Posts
Lol...since when was an aem intake 400 bucks?
I was refering to the Racing beat exhaust LOLLol...since when was an aem intake 400 bucks?
So you wouldn't do air intake, or exhaust system, or headers?
I wanna make the car around 300 hp, is that possible
I wanna make the car around 300 hp, is that possible
O ok...phew...i was like wtf...he got rapedI was refering to the Racing beat exhaust LOL
300HP would require forced induction. No way in hell you're going to achieve that with just intake, headers, and catback. You'll be lucky to get 200hp to the wheels with that triple combination.So you wouldn't do air intake, or exhaust system, or headers?
I wanna make the car around 300 hp, is that possible
Its possible yes. But u need all the supporting mods to do it na. And its more than a few hundred bucksSo you wouldn't do air intake, or exhaust system, or headers?
I wanna make the car around 300 hp, is that possible
Salvatore, when it comes to car tuning, there's a general rule of thumb....
Cheap
Fast
Reliable
It's only possible to achieve 2 out of the 3. IE something cheap and fast will not be reliable.
Cheap
Fast
Reliable
It's only possible to achieve 2 out of the 3. IE something cheap and fast will not be reliable.
no that sounds right, and like I said in other posts, I dont mind to spend the money, I'd just prefer to keep the cost low lol. to achieve 300 hp, what would I be looking at.
Ill post something shortly. I'm on lunch break
ok, without boosting....for 300bhp
headers
full exhaust
intake
lightweight flywheel
lightweight pulleys
fluidampr crank pulley(safety)
clutch (to hold the power your shooting for)
powermod tuner
ported upper and lower intake manifold
i would get cobra coils as well
wideband
water/meth injection(optional, but a good thing to have due to the aggressive tune you'll need to run)
the above will get you there. but it would require running 93 octane and running a very aggresive tune. that was for NA with no big power adder and would wind up costing around 3-4k or so for everything
Or....
headers, intake, and a 50-75 shot(wet shot) of nitrous, and the powermod tuner, and the egr mod, clutch, wideband
this can be done for about 2-2.5k
now these prices are assuming you do all the work yourself (installs). if you have to pay a shop to do the installs and tuning then the prices will go up.
Boosting.....
you'll be spending about 4k+ if your going to turbo. or you can buy the base kit supercharger from nautilus performance for about $3800 and add a clutch to that.
it can get expensive. the biggest part of pulling it all together in tuning the car to its max potential. im sure i may have missed one or two things. but this is just a helper to see and help you gauge what basically needs to happen
headers
full exhaust
intake
lightweight flywheel
lightweight pulleys
fluidampr crank pulley(safety)
clutch (to hold the power your shooting for)
powermod tuner
ported upper and lower intake manifold
i would get cobra coils as well
wideband
water/meth injection(optional, but a good thing to have due to the aggressive tune you'll need to run)
the above will get you there. but it would require running 93 octane and running a very aggresive tune. that was for NA with no big power adder and would wind up costing around 3-4k or so for everything
Or....
headers, intake, and a 50-75 shot(wet shot) of nitrous, and the powermod tuner, and the egr mod, clutch, wideband
this can be done for about 2-2.5k
now these prices are assuming you do all the work yourself (installs). if you have to pay a shop to do the installs and tuning then the prices will go up.
Boosting.....
you'll be spending about 4k+ if your going to turbo. or you can buy the base kit supercharger from nautilus performance for about $3800 and add a clutch to that.
it can get expensive. the biggest part of pulling it all together in tuning the car to its max potential. im sure i may have missed one or two things. but this is just a helper to see and help you gauge what basically needs to happen
also, a big thing that will determine power output would be the health of the actual engine
Most of this is beyond my skill and wallet so I'm just browsing for fun. But I'm curious about one thing - I keep seeing the abbreviation 'na' in this thread. What does 'na' mean ?
okay sounds good something to look into thanks so much
NA, N/A....means naturally aspirated. or all motor meaning an engine without forced induction (turbo or supercharger)
NA, N/A....means naturally aspirated. or all motor meaning an engine without forced induction (turbo or supercharger or nitrous)
fixed it for ya
N20 is not forced induction (IMHO) since it is simply another fuel, like alchohol or diesel. N20 just burns a lot faster and has other properties that preoduce more power than gasoline can. (its an oxidizer)
i would say that an engine running N20 should not be considered an N/A engine for the simple reason that there is no COMPRESSOR forcing more AIR into the engine. but thats just my opinion....lol
i would say that an engine running N20 should not be considered an N/A engine for the simple reason that there is no COMPRESSOR forcing more AIR into the engine. but thats just my opinion....lol
N20 is compressed gas with 02 molcules(the only component in air that really matters in combustion). they use N20 because the N(nitrogen) is a stable gas. You could run straight O2, but the bottles are not nearly as safe to transport and is highly voletial.
N20 isn't even flamable...... unlike other fuels.
IT is oxygen being injected under pressure into the plenum/intake/ port that increases o2 in the cyclindars and requires more fuel to keep stotic and creates a surplus of power over a standard combustion series.
Alcohol without extra O2 reduces A/F, same with extra diesel..... N20 Requires more fuel or it will increase the difference between air and fuel.
Meth on the other hand is a fuel of sorts.
N20 isn't even flamable...... unlike other fuels.
IT is oxygen being injected under pressure into the plenum/intake/ port that increases o2 in the cyclindars and requires more fuel to keep stotic and creates a surplus of power over a standard combustion series.
Alcohol without extra O2 reduces A/F, same with extra diesel..... N20 Requires more fuel or it will increase the difference between air and fuel.
Meth on the other hand is a fuel of sorts.
I also have a typo in my post. I meant to say a nitrous fed motor should be considered NA. Since there is nothing taking the engine above atmospheric.
And rob just explained more in detail what I said with one word. NO2 is and "oxidizer"
And rob just explained more in detail what I said with one word. NO2 is and "oxidizer"
Fuel is not an oxidizer though.
You have me confused as hell what you mean.
You have me confused as hell what you mean.
21 - 40 of 71 Posts
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