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Discussion Starter #1
I did a paint sealant to my car because I don't have the time to wax it 4 times a year. So I tried a paint sealant for the first time. It worked pretty well. Easy on, easy off with no residue. Very shiny too. :drive:
 

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I did a paint sealant to my car because I don't have the time to wax it 4 times a year. So I tried a paint sealant for the first time. It worked pretty well. Easy on, easy off with no residue. Very shiny too. :drive:
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paint sealant is like a polish i believe, you still have to apply wax as the final coat to protect the paint....

was it just Paint Sealant or a Paint Sealant Wax?? if the latter of the two then yeah that should be fine...
 

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The sealent is from Griot's Garage and it says it's a once a year sealant. It's funny that the dealer will charge you $200-$300 for a paint sealant. I bought a bottle of paint sealant for $12 and it will do several apps. Can u say "Rip off?" :drive:
 

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The sealent is from Griot's Garage and it says it's a once a year sealant. It's funny that the dealer will charge you $200-$300 for a paint sealant. I bought a bottle of paint sealant for $12 and it will do several apps. Can u say "Rip off?" :drive:
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most sealants say once a year but in all reality they dont work for a full year you should apply them just as often as wax imo.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
most sealants say once a year but in all reality they dont work for a full year you should apply them just as often as wax imo.
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That what I thought.....I usually wax at least 2x's a year any ways.
:nono:
 

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Doesn't have to be an "either / or"..

I put two coats of sealant (24 hr cure time between coats), then wait a week and put a coat of wax. Looks phenomenal.
 

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Doesn't have to be an "either / or"..

I put two coats of sealant (24 hr cure time between coats), then wait a week and put a coat of wax. Looks phenomenal.
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Agree. The synthetic sealant or polish such as Zaino or Klass All In One will give a great shine and reflection. And if you want a truly deep and rich color (especially on a black car), nothing beats natural carnauba wax (such as P21S). Just apply it right over the sealant or polish.
 

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Using a sealant will give greater durability than using a carnauba-based wax by itself. Synthetic sealants, like the ones mentioned earlier, are a great in-between step in a detailing routine. I prefer to use sealants in the summertime, with no wax topper. The high temps cut carnauba's duribility down by a large margin and I don't have time to re-apply wax every few weeks. This summer I have been using Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and have been extremely pleased with the look. My process was: Wash/Clay/Menzerna Final PolishII/Werkstatt Prime/Acrylic Jett. Come winter time, I plan on topping AJ with Carnauba Jett. This stuff is just so reflective (almost Zaino0like) and the carnauba jett adds a little warmth and glow to the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What other brands of waxes have you guys used before? I am using Meguiers right now. I have had good result with it. I really like the Griot's Garage Sealant now. I will do a sealant and then a good wax by the end of the season before it gets too cold outside.

Do u guys perfer hand waxing or orbital buffer? I use orbital buffer and then hand waxing for tough areas. :drive:
 

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What other brands of waxes have you guys used before? I am using Meguiers right now. I have had good result with it. I really like the Griot's Garage Sealant now. I will do a sealant and then a good wax by the end of the season before it gets too cold outside.

Do u guys perfer hand waxing or orbital buffer? I use orbital buffer and then hand waxing for tough areas. :drive:
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i use a porter cable and it works wonders cuts the time in half, after that i go back and get the little spots that are hard to reach with a towel.
 

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What other brands of waxes have you guys used before? I am using Meguiers right now. I have had good result with it. I really like the Griot's Garage Sealant now. I will do a sealant and then a good wax by the end of the season before it gets too cold outside.

Do u guys perfer hand waxing or orbital buffer? I use orbital buffer and then hand waxing for tough areas. :drive:
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I have been using Cherry Finishing Wax for the last 3 mon. Just as the name says, it is a "Finishing" wax which means no abrasives, no cleaners. It asume you have a 'perfect' finish already and this is a topper coat. It lasts 3 wks and the great thing about it is, it has very little or even no residue after buffing.
Guys who use finishing waxes are museums, dealerships, and guys who have exoctic cars who do not want any abrasives or cleaners to touch their fine paint jobs.
So before I had a "perfect" finish, I compounded, clayed and waxed/sealed. In the earlier posts about sealants, I used a wax & sealant. Very expensive (relative) but lasts 6 mon.
You can check all these out at www.prowax.com. The Cherry Finishing Wax is P-36 and the wax/sealant is called P-35 Satin Creme.
The detailers here after applying P-35 will also apply a coat of detailing wax like P-80 Golden Mist.
I did my compounding and polishing w/Porter Cable, but applied the waxes w/buffer. Tough areas I apply by hand.
Now that I have a durable perfect finish, I don't wax for 6 mon., I just apply P-80 Golden Mist after each washing. This wax is great, you can apply this even in the toughest areas and will not dry to white. All my trims, rubber, no problem. In fact if you watch "Pimp my Ride" put on by West Coast Customs, we make this product for them. They badge it w/their logo.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wax first and then seal? I thought it was seal first and wax last. Is there a reason why you wax and seal? Because it seals the wax? :huh:

I have been using Cherry Finishing Wax for the last 3 mon. Just as the name says, it is a "Finishing" wax which means no abrasives, no cleaners. It asume you have a 'perfect' finish already and this is a topper coat. It lasts 3 wks and the great thing about it is, it has very little or even no residue after buffing.
Guys who use finishing waxes are museums, dealerships, and guys who have exoctic cars who do not want any abrasives or cleaners to touch their fine paint jobs.
So before I had a "perfect" finish, I compounded, clayed and waxed/sealed. In the earlier posts about sealants, I used a wax & sealant. Very expensive (relative) but lasts 6 mon.
You can check all these out at www.prowax.com. The Cherry Finishing Wax is P-36 and the wax/sealant is called P-35 Satin Creme.
The detailers here after applying P-35 will also apply a coat of detailing wax like P-80 Golden Mist.
I did my compounding and polishing w/Porter Cable, but applied the waxes w/buffer. Tough areas I apply by hand.
Now that I have a durable perfect finish, I don't wax for 6 mon., I just apply P-80 Golden Mist after each washing. This wax is great, you can apply this even in the toughest areas and will not dry to white. All my trims, rubber, no problem. In fact if you watch "Pimp my Ride" put on by West Coast Customs, we make this product for them. They badge it w/their logo.
[/b]
 

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Wax first and then seal? I thought it was seal first and wax last. Is there a reason why you wax and seal? Because it seals the wax? :huh:
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No you never wax and then seal. Sealing in a wax will cause clouding. I was saying the wax I used is a wax and sealant together. Shortens detailing time. The only thing about this P-35 I don't like is, it is harder to work with. It is like any other wax experience. You get it on the rubber, and it when it dries, leaves it white and chaulky. I have to clean it out w/tooth brush. Like I mentioned earlier, it Lasts a long time. The label says 6 mon. but I accidentily dropped some on my driveway. It's still there, even after scrubbing w/metal brush. It's been 5 yrs! and still there. I know I can get it out w/solvents, but I am curious how long it will last in my driveway.
Because of its durability, I wax all my metal fixures, house number, anything metal, cuz I leave near the coast and we get salt air ruining the metal. Next time I will post some pictures of waxed fixtures and non-treated fixtues. Big difference. I believe other guys also a smilar product, Kasse or Zano but can't vouch for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the info. Very helpful. Is there a wax that can stop bullets? lol :nana: :slap:
 

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I use the Griot's sealant on my pickup because it sits outside and I don't want to wax it every 3 months. It's good for hiding swirls. On the 6 (redfire) I've started using Rejex. It's working great for the metallic paint. It beads as well a month later as it did when fresh. I'm going to top it with a carnuba (Griot's Best of Show) and see how that looks.

Before I used Rejex, I never could see how synthetic and natural finishes differ. Rejex is like applying a thin layer of glass over the surface of the paint, while the Best of Show enhances the color itself more. I prefer the look of Rejex on metallics (plus you can coat your windows at the same time :D). I'm going to try it on my wife's Saab soon to see how it does with a solid color.

Any other Rejex users?
 

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I use the Griot's sealant on my pickup because it sits outside and I don't want to wax it every 3 months. It's good for hiding swirls. On the 6 (redfire) I've started using Rejex. It's working great for the metallic paint. It beads as well a month later as it did when fresh. I'm going to top it with a carnuba (Griot's Best of Show) and see how that looks.

Before I used Rejex, I never could see how synthetic and natural finishes differ. Rejex is like applying a thin layer of glass over the surface of the paint, while the Best of Show enhances the color itself more. I prefer the look of Rejex on metallics (plus you can coat your windows at the same time :D ). I'm going to try it on my wife's Saab soon to see how it does with a solid color.

Any other Rejex users? [/b]
I've never even heard of the stuff. How long have you been treating you 6 with it? I got some paint swirls that are pissing me off and I'd like to get rid of them.
 

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I've never even heard of the stuff. How long have you been treating you 6 with it? I got some paint swirls that are pissing me off and I'd like to get rid of them.
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I've only used it for a couple months and two applications. It didn't really need another coat, but I wanted to see if the second would enhance the first (it does :D ). It's a lot like Zaino in this respect.

There's a seller on Ebay that always has a huge Dutch auction - $17.95 shipped - for a big bottle that will last a long time.

That said, it is NOT for filling in swirl marks. Paint selant like Griot's or a carnuba-based wax is best for that. The catch for Rejex is that it needs to cure for 12 hours before being exposed to the elements. Application needs to be timed accordingly.
 

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Because of its durability, I wax all my metal fixures, house number, anything metal, cuz I leave near the coast and we get salt air ruining the metal. Next time I will post some pictures of waxed fixtures and non-treated fixtues. Big difference. I believe other guys also a smilar product, Kasse or Zano but can't vouch for them.
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Ok, here's 2 pics of fixtures on outside. 1st pic is original w/o wax. It is about 5 yrs of salty air. 2nd pic is a replaced fixture w/wax (P-35 Satin Creme). This fixture is now 2 yrs old. If you look closely, there is rust forming on all the screws and rust on the inside panel that attaches to the wall. I should have waxed the insides and screws as well! Next time, I am replacing these w/plastic fixtures!
[attachmentid=15934]
[attachmentid=15935]

Well, at least this was an experiment to show that SatinCreme can withstand wheather for a limited amount of time.
 

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