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Hey, all, I have a 2016 M6 GT that I am working to get my sub installed in. I bought the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 T-harness to install an amp. It connects to a factory harness and then has RCA and a remote wire that comes out. It installed easily enough, but it seems that the signal is weak. I got it to sound pretty good, but it took turning the dials up way more than I would like(Gain up all the way on the PAC harness, gain up all the way on the amp, and bass boost on the amp nearly half way, which seem like no-nos for me).



Here is my setup(forgive the old-school nature, I have lots of good,old equipment):


Phoenix Gold Xenon x600.1 amp
Infinity Perfect 12.1 Subwoofer
Ported box, ~1.75 Cu/ft @ ~32-34Hz if I recall(I built it over 10years ago)


Anyway, the amp is rated at 600w rms, and some birthsheets showed it upwards of 700-800w RMS. It seems that with that kind of power in a ported box with bass boost on that it should be stronger. It sounds good, but it doesn't seem to be pushing the sub unless I really crank the volume. In my previous car, I had the same amp to an Image Dynamics IDMAX 12 sealed, and it was significantly louder than this ported setup. I also had it off of a higher end pioneer head unit, which makes me think that the output signal is very low the way I have it set up with the PAC T-harness.


I do need to put in thicker amp wiring, but that would be a small percentage improvement.



Any thoughts? Anyone else use this and feel the same way? Is there any way to increase the voltage or signal via the PAC?


Thanks!
 

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All of the other reviews on this harness, this is the 1st that I have heard of this issue. I researched this harness thoroughly, then just decided to upgrade the radio.

I hope someone can assist you, bc that sucks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
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All of the other reviews on this harness, this is the 1st that I have heard of this issue. I researched this harness thoroughly, then just decided to upgrade the radio.

I hope someone can assist you, bc that sucks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Thanks, it sounds fine, just not what it should be for the components I have. I ended up finding this thread in mazda247 forums, that seems to indicate part of the problem:
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123855204-My-amplifier-install-on-a-2016-CX-5-bose-with-PAC-AOEM-MAZ2-adapter


It seems that there is a factory installed processor in the head unit that limits bass frequency below 45hz. It may be the issue, but It didn't seem as much of an issue as just overall loss of signal. I will keep fiddling with it!
 

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Thanks, it sounds fine, just not what it should be for the components I have. I ended up finding this thread in mazda247 forums, that seems to indicate part of the problem:
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123855204-My-amplifier-install-on-a-2016-CX-5-bose-with-PAC-AOEM-MAZ2-adapter


It seems that there is a factory installed processor in the head unit that limits bass frequency below 45hz. It may be the issue, but It didn't seem as much of an issue as just overall loss of signal. I will keep fiddling with it!
I bet this is so that the doors dont rattle with bass. They should have done this on the amp and not the head unit.

Anyways, why did you need a PAC in the first place? If you have a GT then you should have the Bose amp installed. I think if you can find the wiring diagram you can figure out which wires belong to the 4 audio channels and feed those directly to your amp instead of the bose amp.
 
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Thanks. I used the harness since I thought that would be easier and I didn't want to mess with cutting wires. Is there a better way?
 

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I bet this is so that the doors dont rattle with bass. They should have done this on the amp and not the head unit.

Anyways, why did you need a PAC in the first place? If you have a GT then you should have the Bose amp installed. I think if you can find the wiring diagram you can figure out which wires belong to the 4 audio channels and feed those directly to your amp instead of the bose amp.

I was wondering if you could help me abit as they say the amp is behind the glove box but I've heard that the amp is also under the passenger seat. I have been studying the wire diagrams and I'm close to having it all figured out. I really just want to know what is under passenger seat. Thanks and have a nice day. Right now I have a cheap line output converter tapped into the rear right door speaker. It works good but would rather have a better solution. Thanks
 
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I was wondering if you could help me abit as they say the amp is behind the glove box but I've heard that the amp is also under the passenger seat. I have been studying the wire diagrams and I'm close to having it all figured out. I really just want to know what is under passenger seat. Thanks and have a nice day. Right now I have a cheap line output converter tapped into the rear right door speaker. It works good but would rather have a better solution. Thanks



I have Bose on my 16, and the unit with the plug is behind the glove box as others have stated. The Bose amp is under the passenger seat.
 

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I was wondering if you could help me abit as they say the amp is behind the glove box but I've heard that the amp is also under the passenger seat. I have been studying the wire diagrams and I'm close to having it all figured out. I really just want to know what is under passenger seat. Thanks and have a nice day. Right now I have a cheap line output converter tapped into the rear right door speaker. It works good but would rather have a better solution. Thanks
You would have probably figured it out by now. its under the seat for 16+ and to the right of glovebox in 14-15
 

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Hello!

I've been thinking of adding a sub to my 6, and like you, thought of tapping the signal before it gets to the amp. Someone posted the wiring diagram for the M6 2014 with Bose in this forum, and it stands to reason that it should also apply for the '18. My question is, if we tap into these cables, is it gonna cause any undesired effects in the signal coming out of the factory amp? I want to bypass the factory amp for my sub because I believe (with no hard information, sadly) that it's there where the bass limiting happens and I don't want to put the money towards a DSP.

Cheers
 

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Hello!

I've been thinking of adding a sub to my 6, and like you, thought of tapping the signal before it gets to the amp. Someone posted the wiring diagram for the M6 2014 with Bose in this forum, and it stands to reason that it should also apply for the '18. My question is, if we tap into these cables, is it gonna cause any undesired effects in the signal coming out of the factory amp? I want to bypass the factory amp for my sub because I believe (with no hard information, sadly) that it's there where the bass limiting happens and I don't want to put the money towards a DSP.

Cheers

Should be fine to do this. I believe the head unit outputs 4x full-range pre-amp level signals to the Bose amp which is actually really convenient. There may be a slight voltage drop introduced on the pre-amp signal caused by you splicing into it and feeding it into an additional input, but it shouldn't really be noticeable volume-wise. Regarding the Bose amp, it contains an internal DSP that handles a bunch of different things. It wouldn't be completely accurate to say it's limiting the bass, but rather it's actively dividing the full range signals from the head unit, equalizing them among each output channel, and then sending each signal to the actual amplifier stage. From there the amplified signal is sent to the speakers.

Regarding the information above (and yea I know it's a little old by now), but the PAC-MAZ2 is designed for the non-Bose system. So that device is likely a glorified line output converter even though it doesn't explicitly say it. It's designed to take a high-level signal and turn it into a pre-amp level signal. If you have a Bose system then you're feeding that device an already pre-amp level signal which is going to be reduced even further by the time it reaches the PAC-MAZ2 RCA outputs. That's likely why the sub is hardly getting any signal; there's barely any there. It would make more sense to do what Pangolinrider is doing and tap right into the pre-amp outputs from the head unit directly. In the event you don't already have the Bose system and it still doesn't work, then either the PAC-MAZ2 is defective or there's a problem elsewhere.
 
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