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Yeah, you've got it right, 3 separate threads. I just know how difficult it is for the tuning process and how many people are on board for the tune just with the group buy now, let alone a year from now.

The how to would abolutely bury the technical discussion to the point nobody will want to browse it for technical and results. It's already tough to find certain posts with 10-20 pages of posts.
As OP, you may want to keep a subscription to the How-To and results threads so that you can update the first post with the most relevant data from the conversations.

It's not easy, but it would make the threads very valuable; just like the One-Stop Shop threads. ....Speaking of, I'll go re-do mine do reflect the Tuning process :)
 

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@ballsy and @tickerguy have the exact same vehicle, even down to the exact same ECU ROM.

Now one vehicle is completely stock, to be tuned on 87 octane, the other has some mods and 93 octane. With both of your permission I would like to post some comparisons along the way with your tunes, show some differences in what how octane plays a part as well as mods.

The best part is that you guys both have 2015 MT 2.5L with the exact same ROM, so comparison will be 1:1. (since ROM differences can make differences in the data which can skew it inaccurately)
 

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@ballsy and @tickerguy have the exact same vehicle, even down to the exact same ECU ROM.

Now one vehicle is completely stock, to be tuned on 87 octane, the other has some mods and 93 octane. With both of your permission I would like to post some comparisons along the way with your tunes, show some differences in what how octane plays a part as well as mods.

The best part is that you guys both have 2015 MT 2.5L with the exact same ROM, so comparison will be 1:1. (since ROM differences can make differences in the data which can skew it inaccurately)
That would be very interesting to see on paper! I am cool with it if @tickerguy is! This would help a ton for those who don't want to spend on high octane if it got really close results.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Just an update that I have cleaned up the Original Post a bit and have added links to many key posts. I will continue to add links as new important info is brought to light.
 

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As someone who doesn't usually mod, this ECU flash will increase HP upwards of 30 hp? Am I reading this correct? I leased a '14 M6 and have been going back/forth on whether to keep it or not when it's up. An extra 30 hp on 87 octane with nothing else done would go a long way towards me keeping it!

So just to be clear...

1. See if your ECU is supported.
2. Decide how you want it tuned.
3. Pay $410.
4. Get everything you need to do the tune.
5. It won't mess with the warranty.
6. The dealership won't give you grief on it.
7. You can tune/de-tune as many times as you want.
 

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If there is an ENGINE (or driveline; e.g. clutch) problem and the dealer detects the reflash you MIGHT have a problem with the warranty. It depends on what happens; if you burn up a clutch following a HP-increasing flash I would certainly expect a warranty claim to be denied! Magnuson-Moss allegedly protects you in this instance UNLESS the mod is the cause of the failure -- but that doesn't mean there won't be a fight.

But you can reflash back to stock if you wish, yes, and before taking the car in for service at the dealer I would do exactly that. If a PCM update comes out for your vehicle the dealer is likely to flash it without telling you anyway as those sorts of things are done all the time as TSBs, which would remove the tune (you would have to reapply it in that case.)
 

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That's definitely something to think about but practically speaking, this is my fifth year with Tactrix and I've never had a single person say to me that they were denied warranty service because the dealership accused them of ECU modifications. That doesn't mean it couldn't happen, but it's probably pretty unlikely.

-Mike
Tactrix
 

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But best thing to do is remove the flash before going to the dealer and put it back after.

That's what i was doing with my Speed3 and the AP
 

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But best thing to do is remove the flash before going to the dealer and put it back after.

That's what i was doing with my Speed3 and the AP
Its so friggin easy to flash the ECU I don't see why anyone would not be cautious and flash to stock prior to taking it to the dealer. It takes 5 min's...
 

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Discussion Starter #115

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Interested in this. Will shoot you a message tomorrow with my ECU info
 

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I think he is referring to ballsy and your car. Ballsy has a corksport Sri and just the racing beat exhaust.
Technically I have the K&N typhoon SRI, but I'm sure an SRI is an SRI. My hopes with the K&N is temp difference over the CS one once summer arrives.
 

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I suspect the difference is mostly in the exhaust; in any event I'm unwilling to give up the well-known benefits of much better filtration of incoming air that going to a SRI with one of those oiled-gauze things costs me. I back that opinion up with three decades of used oil analysis reports across dozens of engines and the silicate levels found in oil samples with various filtration systems, ranging from "essentially none" (some marine diesels) to oiled gauze and paper filters.

Without exception the paper filter engines have gotten fewer insults due to silicates (dirt that gets past the filter and into the engine) and that is a major contributor to engine wear over time.

I'm VERY interested in the sound profile (in particular what winds up in the cabin!) from the Racing Beat catback.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
I suspect the difference is mostly in the exhaust; in any event I'm unwilling to give up the well-known benefits of much better filtration of incoming air that going to a SRI with one of those oiled-gauze things costs me. I back that opinion up with three decades of used oil analysis reports across dozens of engines and the silicate levels found in oil samples with various filtration systems, ranging from "essentially none" (some marine diesels) to oiled gauze and paper filters.

Without exception the paper filter engines have gotten fewer insults due to silicates (dirt that gets past the filter and into the engine) and that is a major contributor to engine wear over time.

I'm VERY interested in the sound profile (in particular what winds up in the cabin!) from the Racing Beat catback.
The AEM dry flow filter tends to show pretty good filtration, on par with some oems from what I've read.

Also I'm not sure the big flow delta is from the exhaust primarily, because where the max flow rate is occurring int he RPM band (6k) the stock intake is VERY restrictive compared to an SRI (or to a lesser extend CAI) per previous dyno plots seen from corksport injen and K&N.

Not to say at lower rpms where torque is occurring the delta isn't big, and isn't mostly the exhaust, it could be but we don't have the data.
 
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