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Think if you are Mazda and you just bet the company's future with +13:1 compression ratio engines. Can you afford the bad publicity from even a few engines blowing up? They just went through that a bit on the RX8s. That is why they are crazy conservative with these engines.
This is also the reason Mazda really over-built these engines, strength wise. They use very well engineered parts, like the pistons and rods, for example.

The higher RPM isn't an actual strain on the physical parts (our boosted sky 2.0L revs over 7000 :D when stock limiter is 6400), it's that these heads weren't built to flow in such high rpms, as opposed to a honda, which are specifically built to maximize high RPM flow

Any Admins who could PM me? I am getting a lot of people who want this tune, and everything is pointing towards a group buy setup, but I'd like to pm/speak to an admin or mod to make sure everything is ok with that.
 

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Just remember, if you ever plan on smogging your car in the future you'd best get a tatrix of your own so you can flash back to stock before smogging.
That's a good question, how do you flash back to stock settings if that's required? Can stock information be downloaded from the ECU and then uploaded back again?
 

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If somebody is bored, needs to make some extra money and is reliable, they could buy a few tatrix ports and rent them out in coordination with OVT. Paypal is a beautiful thing...

Just remember, if you ever plan on smogging your car in the future you'd best get a tatrix of your own so you can flash back to stock before smogging.

My biggest worry is I have Mazdaedit installed on a 7 year old laptop, and mazdaedit is licensed only to that computer it is installed on. It can't be transferred. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to keep this laptop working until I'm ready to sell the mazda 6 in 10 more years. (a 17 year old laptop?). Hopefully if the laptop breaks Epifan isn't a stickler about allowing me to reinstall mazdaedit on a new computer without making me purchase a brand new license.
Epifan allows for you to re-license to a new computer if you need to for no cost. but your License only last 1 year from date of purchase (for support). So after the 1 year it can't be relicensed. Quite a few people i've tuned have swaped to new or different computeres and he has no problem generating a new license key for it.

Also I haven't had anyone fail a smog test on a tune yet, unless they plug into the ECU and read the ROM data and compare to what is actually stock, they'd never know.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
That's a good question, how do you flash back to stock settings if that's required? Can stock information be downloaded from the ECU and then uploaded back again?
Yes, that is the first step with the ECU is to save off the stock settings and convert it to a hex file you can flash back into the ECU if you want to go back to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Epifan allows for you to re-license to a new computer if you need to for no cost. but your License only last 1 year from date of purchase (for support). So after the 1 year it can't be relicensed. Quite a few people i've tuned have swaped to new or different computeres and he has no problem generating a new license key for it.

Also I haven't had anyone fail a smog test on a tune yet, unless they plug into the ECU and read the ROM data and compare to what is actually stock, they'd never know.
That's pretty impressive people pass smog on a tune, but remember I had you all but shut off my EGR valve, LoL.

And to get it straight. You can only swap computers during the first year of the mazdaedit software after that you are on your own? The one year is just for support right, it doesn't mean the software will be disabled after a year correct.
 

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That's pretty impressive people pass smog on a tune, but remember I had you all but shut off my EGR valve, LoL.

And to get it straight. You can only swap computers during the first year of the mazdaedit software after that you are on your own? The one year is just for support right, it doesn't mean the software will be disabled after a year correct.
I'll revise my statement.. unless you specifically request something (like disabling the EGR for example) that would cause you to fail a smog, you shouldn't have any issues.

right, the software will continue to work, but after 1 year you no longer have direct technical support from epifan.
 

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Great post! I actually have full PDF Picture instructions that I hand out with each tune, that I've recently updated with some things Solar pointed out. So the instructions PDF covers everything about getting a copy of the stock ecu, flashing, etc

I definitely want more information about becoming a site sponsor. I'll PM greyghost
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Everything you said is correct Octagon.
Regarding the how to...it is a pain to get going in Mazdaedit with all the steps sending and receiving info. Saving off the stock tune flashing the ecu data logging and repeat many many times. The mod is the opposite of instant gratification, you will have to work hard and learn as you go and it will take a long time. OVT does a lot to help facilitate this process including instructions he mentioned. You are never on your own.

To keep things in perspective this is WAY more convenient and cost effective to get a fully dialed in tune of your car than the old days where you would have to drive to the tuner and buy a crapload of dyno time.
 

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LINK:
epifanSoftware | mazdaEdit | Downloads

NOTE: For mazdaEdit yes you will probably be able to get a discount. I believe someone already asked and the software dev agreed to a discount.


OPTIONAL: Choose PERSONAL is if you want map access and want to play around with the ECU yourself. ( I don't recommend this unless you know what you're doing ) epifanSoftware | ecuEdit

LINK:
epifanSoftware | ecuEdit | Downloads


2) A Tactrix Open port 2.0. Reflash adapters: None.
COST: $169.00

LINK:
Tactrix Openport 2.0
Correct. epifan is willing to give a discount if 3 or more are in on a group purchase.


I finally heard back from Tactrix about a group purchase. They are also willing to give a discount, but only if it is a purchase of 10 and more. The discount would be modest . So with a group purchase for the hardware and software, the savings could be roughly $34. That would be excluding the tune.

As of writing this, the lite version of epifan is $175 and the tactrix Openport 2.0 is $169.

Excluding the tune without the discount you are looking at $344.
Include the saving (still excluding the price of the tune) you are looking at $310
 

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Everything you said is correct.

Regarding the how to...it is a pain to get going in Mazdaedit with all the steps sending and receiving info. Saving off the stock tune flashing the ecu data logging and repeat many many times. The mod is the opposite of instant gratification, you will have to work hard and learn as you go and it will take a long time. OVT does a lot to help facilitate this process including instructions he mentioned. You are never on your own.

To keep things in perspective this is WAY more convenient and cost effective to get a fully dialed in tune of your car than the old days where you would have to drive to the tuner and buy a crapload of dyno time.
I was thinking/guessing a how to would come with the tune from OVT. Solar, could you possibly detail us in what exactly is involved for those who have never tuned (like me lol) so we can all have a good idea of what type of commitment we are looking at for those who think we plug it, hit download, and start a "new" modified car immediately after? I figured it wasn't really easy but not necessarily "log and repeat many many times.....you will have to work hard and learn as you go and it will take a long time"? Gives me a bit of a "do I want to risk messing my new car up if I do something wrong during this process" thought in my head.
 

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Okay a simple "down and dirty" of how it works.

First I want to make it clear to everyone, you can't hurt your ECU. The only way you're going to mess your car up is if you crash it, OR lets say you are tuned for 93 octane..and put 85 in the tank. Now it may not hurt the engine (because of the safe maps) but obvious to use common judgement. I don't mind writing tunes for different octane if you want a high octane map but don't want to use it all the time.

Here is how it works:

you register the software to your PC. Epifan creates and controls the keys, it takes him about 2 days to have you all the registration.
you plug the tactrix into the car, and into the computer. you copy your stock ECU, and send it to me.
From there, I write the the base file of your ROM and send it to you.
Following my instruction PDF, you flash the ECU (with the software and tactrix). simply a couple buttons.

Then, you setup the logger. Simply check mark the options I have set out in the instructions, connect to the ECU, start recording and go log. (the computer will have to be with you in the car, connected to the OBD via tactrix). It's easier to just plug it in, toss it in the passenger seat, and record.
you take either one long log, or individual. your choice. I can get what I need out of it either way.
you log idle, for about 2 mins.
you log driving around town, about 5 mins
you log 2x Wide open throttle gear pulls, 2nd gear or higher.
If you're ATX, put it in manual mode(if you have it ) and select a gear and go from the lowest RP it will let you to the highest RPM it will let you.

you send me the logs.
I review the logs, adjust the ROM, send you a new file, you flash the ECU again, then start the process over (logging).
it takes on average about 6 logging iterations / files to complete.

You do it on your time, there is no rush, no deadline. I've had a few people who just do it at their leisure, and are a few months in. I work on the tune when you send me the logs, so it's kinda up to you when you want the tune complete.

I try as hard as I can to get you your file updated and sent to you within 48 hours of receiving your logs. (excluding sundays sorry). The only tie it may be a little longer is when I specifically need something in your ROM and have to search through the hex to find it. I have * MOST * ROMs fully defined, or defined for everything I need, but, to be fair to you and to me, I won't promise that your ECU has everything already defined in my XMLs.
This is only on rare occasions that you would have to wait longer than 48-72 hours when I'm looking for something in the hex, most time I find it within a couple hours.

general information guidelines:
if you tune for 93, it's in your best interest to only put 93 in the tank. these ecus are VERY sensitive, and do have the ability to pull back timing if you put a lower octane in the tank, but I don't recommend it. This goes for 91,89,87.
if you want / need a lower octane map, I am happy to write you one. I charge only a very small fee for additional maps.

If you get a new mod, for instance an intake, your file might need slight recalibration. this is free, simply send me a log, specify what mod was changed, and I'll send you an updated file. No charge for as long as you own the vehicle.

Because I understand a lot of the process is up to the user, and you're not simply dropping the car off with me on a dyno for the day, I try to give you the most that I can, when it comes to support, updates, troubleshooting, etc.
for example, all tunes come with (for as long as you own the car):
free adjustments if you change a mod
free data log review, if 6 months down the road you just want me to make sure everything is still peachy.
Free support for any issues, questions.
Free updates for any cool new stuff we get. For example, we just recently parsed and defined the section of certain sky 2.0 maps that allow us to have direct Air fuel control at Wide open throttle (previously this was impossible and the AFR was locked at 12.6). Everyone got a free update, with adjusted files and it made a huge difference in power.


I wanted to ensure that this really would be the "best bang for the buck" mod. I really don't think you'll find another company out there that would be nice enough to do this much for no additional cost, consider the price of our tune is pennies compared to competitors. You can easily pay $700-1000 bucks for a Dyno tune at a local shop, but all in all, software, hardware, and tune you're paying less than 500 bucks and you keep the hardware and software!, and your car has priority with us for as long as you own it.
The reason why I do this is because I want to be more than simply a "buy it now" button , or a salesmen. I try to be an active part of the car communities. I personally own a Mazda and have a love hate relationship with it (like many lol) but I understand how these communities are here to help each-other. For example I run a 1000+ member mazda tuning group on facebook where we all collaborate and just help each-other out. As much as I am a tuner, i'm also a mazda driver, car enthusiast. I don't do this for the money, believe me I was lead tuner for a shop for a while and making a decent amount, but it wasn't as enjoying just tuning car after car after car, never really establishing that "relationship" between customer and tuner, I do this because I enjoy it.


sorry for the book of a post.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I'm on tune 6 now. Things are great. It really does take the ecu time to learn the bigger tune changes. Things have really smoothed out during regular driving where the tune hasn't been changed in a while.

The engine sounds so awesome around 6k rpm. I want to say it is frenetic because it's accelerating so fast, but it is only 6k and still a big deep sound. It's more like an 800 lb gorilla going ape sh#% in the jungle. There is a certain batmobile quality to it that it has always had with the exhaust and SRI, its just that things are happening faster and going higher to 6500rpm. And since the further tweaking of the exhaust timing as an experment for OVT for my high flow velocity exhaust with tune 4 and 5 there is strong definition and sense of purpose with each combustion. For the first time ever this car indisputably sounds like it has headers. Very cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I was thinking/guessing a how to would come with the tune from OVT. Solar, could you possibly detail us in what exactly is involved for those who have never tuned (like me lol) so we can all have a good idea of what type of commitment we are looking at for those who think we plug it, hit download, and start a "new" modified car immediately after? I figured it wasn't really easy but not necessarily "log and repeat many many times.....you will have to work hard and learn as you go and it will take a long time"? Gives me a bit of a "do I want to risk messing my new car up if I do something wrong during this process" thought in my head.
OVT pretty much covered it Ballsy. You can't screw up your car, but you can screw up the process which just means i will take longer and more work.

The hardest parts are just doing so many things new you've never done before all at once, but the instructions are a big help, and you need to follow them closely. OVT and epifan always turned around info very very quick.

It has been an extra challenge for me to do this with two toddlers at home that don't leave me alone for a second when I'm home from work and getting sick for a while. At least I'm not fighting the weather too much. But as fast as I could go, here I am over a month later and I'm probably about a week away frmo being done. I guess I could have been done sooner if I hadn't asked OVT to experiment with the exhaust timing, but that did pay off so I don't regret it.
 

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OVT pretty much covered it Ballsy. You can't screw up your car, but you can screw up the process which just means i will take longer and more work.

The hardest parts are just doing so many things new you've never done before all at once, but the instructions are a big help, and you need to follow them closely. OVT and epifan always turned around info very very quick.

It has been an extra challenge for me to do this with two toddlers at home that don't leave me alone for a second when I'm home from work and getting sick for a while. At least I'm not fighting the weather too much. But as fast as I could go, here I am over a month later and I'm probably about a week away frmo being done. I guess I could have been done sooner if I hadn't asked OVT to experiment with the exhaust timing, but that did pay off so I don't regret it.
I've never been extremely knowledgeable with computer stuff, but have always been good at catching on quick. Just don't want to jump in over my head, but OVT broke it down well and it doesn't sound too cumbersome. I've got a 3 and 6 yr old so I hear where you're coming from there haha. Plus I brew beer a lot (brewing a batch today)...so many hobbies.....so little time hahaha.
@OrangeVirus Tuning I PM'd you back with a photo of my ECU please let me know if it is a go b/c I have an SRI to order and install prior to starting the tune :)
 

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Ballsy what is the build date for your car?

So OVT, does this guarantee that all cars with build dates earlier than Ballsy's car, including all 2014's are supported?
@solar365 its 5/14. I would imagine they would want to play it safe and get ECU pics sent to them to be 100% sure though? I would hate to pay for all this only to have it not supported in the end.
 

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@solar365

Did you try Virtual Dyno to give you an idea of your power ?

http://www.virtualdyno.net/
ok, i entered all the properties for my car i ran it against my last datalog. there's a lot of blah blah technical variables but reality is this is two 2nd gear runs from idle to redline or close to it, once up a hill and once down it with a stop light in between.

i wouldn't concern yourselves with the actual numbers as much as what the plots are saying. so about all I can take away from this is:

  • it's making more horespower than torque as i was feeling
  • the torque is like a mesa in arizona which contributes significant;y to real world acceleration
  • Peark hp is occuring at the factory redline
So it's estimating you at around 190 WHP?
 

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Okay here is a run base file vs Latest adjustment.
Solar started logging on my first base file I sent him, not stock. So I would think stock would not be this smooth.

This is the UP HILL vs UP HILL (Base vs Latest). These numbers shown will be LOWER than what it truly is because it is going up hill.

adjusted for actual air temp and pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Okay here is a run base file vs Latest adjustment.
Solar started logging on my first base file I sent him, not stock. So I would think stock would not be this smooth.

This is the UP HILL vs UP HILL (Base vs Latest). These numbers shown will be LOWER than what it truly is because it is going up hill.

adjusted for actual air temp and pressure.
Thanks OVT. Everybody needs to IGNORE THE DYNO VALUES FROM THE VIRTUAL DYNO AND FOCUS ON RELATIVITIES AND THE SHAPE OF THE PLOTS.

Yes first tune file was WAY smoother than stock when all OVT did was straightening out the valve timing and increase the rev limiter. Power and torque increase was noticeable, but modest, similar to adding the SRI. On the second tune where OVT advanced the timings really when the power change was dramatic at all loads and forced the ecu to do a lot of relearning. Everytime I would hit a load and rpm for the first time it would hesitate then take off. Everytime I would try to repeat it, it wouldn't pause again because it learned already.
 
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