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Discussion Starter #241
I'd love to have a nice closed airport runway for this sort of thing, or a track (e.g. dragstrip) but I have neither, so I make my runs in 2nd.
Yeah, the problem in 3rd is just as much about having to start at 15-20mph as it is about going to 90-100mph. There are not too many places to cover that much of a range of speed in one shot at WOT safely.

And for what it is worth, after the tuning 3rd gear acceleration feels as good or better than 2nd gear even though I've never datalogged in 3rd gear.
 

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Luckily i have a highway behind me that is dead empty at night. I could do 4th gear pulls if i wanted too without having to worry. Only reaspn why i dont is because it takes too damn long and im not comfortable staying above 6k rpm for like a solid 10 seconds lol
 

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I have now effectively completed the process on 87 and will be pulling a final set of logs and posting a comparison graph here (virtual dyno) in the next day or two.

Note that you really can't use this as an absolute indication of change, but you can as a relative one. I will be also getting a calibration for 92, which I suspect (from where I know timing advance and such ended up on 87 .vs. expectations for 93) is going to put me within spitting distance of those on 92 but with CAIs and exhausts -- we shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
I have now effectively completed the process on 87 and will be pulling a final set of logs and posting a comparison graph here (virtual dyno) in the next day or two.

Note that you really can't use this as an absolute indication of change, but you can as a relative one. I will be also getting a calibration for 92, which I suspect (from where I know timing advance and such ended up on 87 .vs. expectations for 93) is going to put me within spitting distance of those on 92 but with CAIs and exhausts -- we shall see.
Congratulations on beating me to the finish of the tune. Between technical difficulties with mazdaedit, my busy family life, extra tune refinement requests and California ECU ROM that is like a Where's Waldo game for OVT, this is taking forever...

I'm excited to see the difference between octanes. I'm probably running timing equivalent to 93 or even higher octane due to my cold air intake setup reducing intake temps so dramatically.

If you are retaining the stock intake you can probably dramatically improve the cold air flow into the intake just by removing the seal over the headlights on both sides. You should do this after the tunes are complete though to see the change in ambient temp vs IAT and the corresponding timing advance obtained.
 

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If you are retaining the stock intake you can probably dramatically improve the cold air flow into the intake just by removing the seal over the headlights on both sides. You should do this after the tunes are complete though to see the change in ambient temp vs IAT and the corresponding timing advance obtained.
I don't know that will do much -- I've got a decent amount of data on intake temperatures and I'm not seeing anything that implies I'm getting nailed from a hot-air perspective. Here is a "driving around" log....

During a pull as speed goes up I drop a couple of degrees -- not much, and not implying there's much of a problem I can address in that regard.

The only place I see material upward IATs is idling in traffic; as soon as I start moving IATs track down smartly.

It certainly appears that as long as the car is moving the factory setup does a pretty decent job of keeping IATs under control. I will play with it a bit however, since I have a bluetooth OBD adapter and Torque -- and thus can watch IATs in real-time while driving very easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #246
I don't know that will do much -- I've got a decent amount of data on intake temperatures and I'm not seeing anything that implies I'm getting nailed from a hot-air perspective. Here is a "driving around" log....

During a pull as speed goes up I drop a couple of degrees -- not much, and not implying there's much of a problem I can address in that regard.

The only place I see material upward IATs is idling in traffic; as soon as I start moving IATs track down smartly.

It certainly appears that as long as the car is moving the factory setup does a pretty decent job of keeping IATs under control. I will play with it a bit however, since I have a bluetooth OBD adapter and Torque -- and thus can watch IATs in real-time while driving very easily.
Consider this though. even steady state you are still getting some amount of air from the engine bay and the majority of that air has come through the radiator...so you won't know what the real potential for temp reduction is until you try the seal removal mod.


  • I've observed dramatic reductions in ignition retard going from the stock intake with the aftermarket exhaust where i was getting heavy spark retard at 70 degree ambient temps I could feel...
  • ...to getting no spark retard that I could feel at 105 degrees ambient with the SRI in the cold air box.
  • With the exhaust, SRI and no cold airbox I was getting heavy ignition retard all the way down to about 60 degrees.
That was on 87 octane for all three configurations


  • Going to 89 octane fixed the heavy retard on the stock intake with exhaust up to about 90 degrees although performance still felt a little weak above 70 degrees, and at 91 octane the engine was strong up to 100 degrees.
  • On 91 with the exhuast and SRI no airbox I was getting heavy spark retard in the mid 70 degrees on up when the engine was warmed up and the radiator was blowing on it.
Those are my real world data points, and why I swear by my cold intake providing similar benefits to ignition timing as octane increases.

Even OVT said he was quite pleased with how much timing advance he was able to get with my car (better than most relative to the octane I am using).
 

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Just saw a max IAT of 59c on my 2nd log of the day. Outside temp was about 85f so IAT was 138f so over 50 degrees above outside temp. All in town cruising and a lot of stop lights s heat soak was a big factor. Avg was 48.73c
 

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Im going to try removing front and rear hood seal. I've seen it drop the underhood temps by 10 to 15 deg. I agree with solar with the SRI blocking the filter from the radiator fan is going to be key since it's blowing right on it. I might have time this weekend to play around with some things.
 

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Discussion Starter #250
Once I'm done tuning and have data logged the last tune and the stock tune in similar conditions I think I'm going to play around with Microsoft excel a bit to plot my own logging data from the CSV files.

I uninstalled the virtual dyno because it blew up the key to mazdaedit (which wasn't even open at the time!) and who knows what else (I got a critical arror in the MEP file for every datalog category) when I tried to "load raw data" into virtual dyno.

I also may try to datalog during the chassis dyno runs in the future to correlate the logged data to real world dyno numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #251
Just saw a max IAT of 59c on my 2nd log of the day. Outside temp was about 85f so IAT was 138f so over 50 degrees above outside temp. All in town cruising and a lot of stop lights s heat soak was a big factor. Avg was 48.73c
85F = 29C or approximately 30C
And max was 59C or approximately 60C.

If you look at the attached table, at say a coolant temp of 60C the ignition timing is neutral (0) at 30C intake temp and -3.5 degrees retarded at 60C, which the ECU rounds up to -4 degrees ignition timing retard which is a not insignificant reduction in hp and torque.

So the more you can reduce the differential between ambient temp and IAT the less retarded you are going to be; pun intended. LoL
 

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Just saw a max IAT of 59c on my 2nd log of the day. Outside temp was about 85f so IAT was 138f so over 50 degrees above outside temp. All in town cruising and a lot of stop lights s heat soak was a big factor. Avg was 48.73c
I ran into similar numbers on also a 80 degree day with the CS SRI installed. Using the torque app, in Fahrenheit, I recorded low 90s to low 100s while cruising. at a stop light temps quickly rose and crept into the mid 120s, with a longer city drive I won't be surprised to see the temps you saw. I wonder if the stock intake is actually a better choice temp wise compared to a no airbox SRI, and I would love to see what temps the injen and k&n guys are getting
 

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I've got some thin gauge aluminum at home. Im going to try just a simple shroud like the k&n has first. I will build a box but I want to do steps to see the improvements with each step.
 

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I ran into similar numbers on also a 80 degree day with the CS SRI installed. Using the torque app, in Fahrenheit, I recorded low 90s to low 100s while cruising. at a stop light temps quickly rose and crept into the mid 120s, with a longer city drive I won't be surprised to see the temps you saw. I wonder if the stock intake is actually a better choice temp wise compared to a no airbox SRI, and I would love to see what temps the injen and k&n guys are getting
Not checked what temps I've been getting. I haven't had 80 deg days here yet but have logged in upper 60's near 70. Will be interesting. I did open up the seal over the drivers side headlight only going right to the filter. Figured if I opened it up where the passenger side was, that air might come across the engine towards the drivers side where filter is and thus raise the temp.
 

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Started poking around engine bay. Its pretty sealed up with the under panels and wheel wells and such. I removed 2 weather strips up front, and the big one in the rear. Without removing fog light or under panels getting cooler outside air is def a challenge.
 

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Discussion Starter #256
I ran into similar numbers on also a 80 degree day with the CS SRI installed. Using the torque app, in Fahrenheit, I recorded low 90s to low 100s while cruising. at a stop light temps quickly rose and crept into the mid 120s, with a longer city drive I won't be surprised to see the temps you saw. I wonder if the stock intake is actually a better choice temp wise compared to a no airbox SRI, and I would love to see what temps the injen and k&n guys are getting
I can say definitively the stock intake is cooler than an unprotected SRI. When the radiator fan is blowing air straight into the filter it's going to get hot.

The cai is not cold just because it is 2 feet lower than the top of the engine bay. It's still just engine bay air, so probably very similar temps to the stock intake.
 

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Started poking around engine bay. Its pretty sealed up with the under panels and wheel wells and such. I removed 2 weather strips up front, and the big one in the rear. Without removing fog light or under panels getting cooler outside air is def a challenge.
Yea its definitely not the easiest to find cold air in the engine. I don't know if this is how all new cars a made or just part of Mazda's weight savings but the fender area is not sealed off by a inner fender wall like other cars. On my parents 2000 CRV there is actually a funnel for the factory intake that draws air from that fairly sealed off area b/t the inner and outer fender..

I really want to do this w/o hacking out the factory seals or factory structure but to get effective cold air its going to be necessary more or less. The way the factory seals are installed looks like its just to prevent water from entering the factory scoop (water still seeps past the sides of the hood), and the inner seal trys its best to seal off a little engine heat. I guess some cold air can be drawn from that little hood latch hole, haha

I poked around under the hood can i can see a potential mod for the SRI that can really draw some cold air utilizing the factory intake scoop location. See if you guys catch my drift. create a airbox that is sealed off from the engine bay and has a funnel that bolts onto the factory scoop location, from there, open up the plastic shroud under the scoop and extend the scoop with a turn down to draw air from that area in front of the radiator behind the grille. And to battle rainy days with this set up, just install a hydroshield on the cone filter and add a drain hole on the bottom of the airbox. It will take some TLC and DIY skills, heh





shoot if I just modify the factory intake like this i essentially turn it into a CAI too XD, just never drive in heavier rain or i run the risk of messing up the filter/ hyrolock
 

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I would love to see what temps the injen and k&n guys are getting
I believe I was getting cruising intake temps from 0-5 degrees F over ambient with the K&N. I can verify on the drive home tonight and provide some screenshots cruising/at rest/etc. Is there a better thread for the data so that we don't highjack this one?
 

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I believe I was getting cruising intake temps from 0-5 degrees F over ambient with the K&N. I can verify on the drive home tonight and provide some screenshots cruising/at rest/etc. Is there a better thread for the data so that we don't highjack this one?
Might as well put it in to this one to keep it c/w K&N. http://forum.mazda6club.com/2-5l-i-4/327874-k-n-intake-installed.html
@OrangeVirus Tuning , what temps have you been seeing with myself and @Donkey Grundle?
 
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