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Maybe you guys got the idea from here:

See Objective 2:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/2-5l-i-4/331586-custom-tune-notes-91-octane-sri-high-flow-exhaust.html

:wink2:

Anyways I've never verified with OVT that he did this for me even though I requested he accommodate those objectives, but my car does struggle keeping the speed up grades in 6th gear at 70-75mph compared to before the tune, so I assumed it has been done.

It may not be the best of ideas for me in San Diego where you are always going up grades, and if I have to down shift into 5th it kills fuel economy because it's above 3k, so I just dig deeper into the throttle in 6th and live with the engine struggling.

Oh well. It is neat seeing 35 mpg at 80 mph when it is flat, and my car is probably the most un-aerodynamic 3rd gen 6th in the world, unless somebody has installed those dreadful headlight eyelashes..
speaking of grades, east bound on interstate 8 to pine valley is a real MPG killer. over in LA newhall pass is even worse, or basically any of the passes out of LA. This is where i found a chevy cruze rental had warped brakes, LOL. Other than that most of LA is pretty flat so I should have no issue with a high efficiency 6th gear
 

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On the Base Tune with the Injen CAI. Everything is good so far!! Feels like a little boost in power unless it is the butt dyno, but throttle response is alot nicer.


Going to do the data log for my first actual tune. Raised Rev Limiter (if possible) and tuned for 91 octane.
Awesome, keep me posted on how things go w/ each tune if ya can! I definitely would like to do it once I get a few extra bucks.
 

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Dont worry I have a couple of videos. If you want check out my instagram I always post car stuff there.

If not I will post a video on youtube of the before intake and tune and after intake and tune.

Supposed to get the 2nd tune today, so I will make another video of that as well.

instagram: husszaidi
 

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Those of you that are tuned with the manual transmission...

Is there less 'rev-hang' in the 1st to 2nd gear shifts? I know it's partly due to the flywheel, but also (maybe) for emissions...

By rev-hang I mean when you're at >2500rpm, clutch in for a gear change, and the revs kinda 'hang' there for a second or two before dropping.
I haven't noticed that, I know the large flywheel takes a bit to wind down but never had it "hang" in place for split second. You sure you're not still on the accelerator a little as your engaging the clutch? I will say that my SRI continues to be less noticeable sound wise which started at tune #4 (I also removed the engine cover at same time but wouldn't see how that would have anything to do with it). Either way, I friggin love 3rd gear with these tunes. It amazes me every time I drive the car how much has been gained in 3rd as well as 4th gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
6600 may be a living a bit dangerously. +200 from stock gets you 90% of the benefit with materially less risk. QUOTE]

It's always complicated discussing torque horsepower gearing and rpm. Torque is not a measure of how much work is getting done, its just how much momentum/mass an engine can overcome. On the other hand hp is the measure of how fast work is getting done, and is therefore a truer measure of how fast a car can accelerate if the drive is willing to utilize the gearing to maximum advantage (ie. accelerate at the optimal rpm range)

Look at acceleration times for diesels compared to gas engines and their torque and hp to see this. So, torque is just useful for indicating how much horsepower is available at low rpms to provide acceleration. To speak in terms of mathematics (calculus) it is the integral of the hp/rpm plot, the area under the curve, that determines how fast your car will accelerate.

So for our car after the OVT tune, even with it making decent torque down low you can still see the hp curve is pretty steep, yet doesn't drop very fast after hitting peak hp, which says there is a lot more acceleration, a lot more area under the hp/rpm curve, the higher your redline is.

I would say after the tune that the difference between 6000rpm redline and 6800 rpm redline has a significant impact on acceleration times, probably .5-1.0 seconds 0-60 even ignoring extra shifts.

So the higher you shift at WOT the faster your acceleration times will be, the only question is what long term damage will occur due to the time spent under load higher and higher in the rpm range.

Like I've said before, I'm just taking the tachometer full redline as gospel for picking a 6500 rpm redline, but the guy that picks 6800 rpm will beat me noticeably every time.
 

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I've been tossing around 6800 for the last few days. I'm fairly sure the engine would be fine. I'd like to see where it runs out of breath and starts losing power, but also don't want to go too much higher and risk broken parts. There isn't enough of these engines out there and they aren't going to be cheap to replace.
 

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For everyone waiting on the next revision on their tune, I apologize for the delays, I've been working around the clock defining the necessary parts of the ROM I need for the tune, and seems like a bulk of people ordered their tune this week.

I should have everyone an update file / base file / ready to go by tonight.
 

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Ok everyone, my PM box is getting flooded with support questions. So I want to direct everyone to this post:

Before you purchase the software, or a tactrix, please check that your ECU is supported. Its pretty easy to do.
Epifan has said all 2014 *should* be supported, but I recommend checking just in case.

To check:
Pop your cars hood, and in the picture attached, you will see the location of the ECU. Remove the ECU cover (or if necessary the intake as well for room) and you will see on your ECU a Sticker with a code / Number. please PM ME a picture of that ECU sticker / code. I will get back to you within 24-48 (depending on Epifan) if your car is supported and we can go from there!.
ATX and MTX should both be supported.

Geez, I can't even get the cover off to check the ECU :(
 

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I didn't even pop anything off. Just stick your phone's camera down the backside and snap a photo. Rotate the photo and read!

*correction - I did pop the cover off (held on by a couple of 10mm bolts) but realized I didn't have to afterwards.
 

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I finally got those bolts off (thought for sure they were going to snap!) but you're right; I didn't need to take them off after all. But my phone sucks and I couldn't get a clear shot. So I just wrote down the numbers and PM'd them in the end, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #192
I've been tossing around 6800 for the last few days. I'm fairly sure the engine would be fine. I'd like to see where it runs out of breath and starts losing power, but also don't want to go too much higher and risk broken parts. There isn't enough of these engines out there and they aren't going to be cheap to replace.
Yeah it isn't going to damage anything running to 6800 once that's for sure.

I have the personal version of Mazda edit, so likely when I do the real life dyno run I will crank it up to 6800 to see what the drop off looks like. Everything I've seen so far is there is hardly any drop off after 6200 hp peak.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
Stock sky on 87 octane, no mods.

pulling up on flow comparable to one with intake / exhaust. the difference is surprising!
Please clarify: both are tuned, one is tuned (if so which) both are not tuned?
One with intake/exhaust is on 87?
 

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6600 may be a living a bit dangerously. +200 from stock gets you 90% of the benefit with materially less risk.
It's always complicated discussing torque horsepower gearing and rpm. Torque is not a measure of how much work is getting done, its just how much momentum/mass an engine can overcome. On the other hand hp is the measure of how fast work is getting done, and is therefore a truer measure of how fast a car can accelerate if the drive is willing to utilize the gearing to maximum advantage (ie. accelerate at the optimal rpm range)

Look at acceleration times for diesels compared to gas engines and their torque and hp to see this. So, torque is just useful for indicating how much horsepower is available at low rpms to provide acceleration. To speak in terms of mathematics (calculus) it is the integral of the hp/rpm plot, the area under the curve, that determines how fast your car will accelerate.

So for our car after the OVT tune, even with it making decent torque down low you can still see the hp curve is pretty steep, yet doesn't drop very fast after hitting peak hp, which says there is a lot more acceleration, a lot more area under the hp/rpm curve, the higher your redline is.

I would say after the tune that the difference between 6000rpm redline and 6800 rpm redline has a significant impact on acceleration times, probably .5-1.0 seconds 0-60 even ignoring extra shifts.

So the higher you shift at WOT the faster your acceleration times will be, the only question is what long term damage will occur due to the time spent under load higher and higher in the rpm range.

Like I've said before, I'm just taking the tachometer full redline as gospel for picking a 6500 rpm redline, but the guy that picks 6800 rpm will beat me noticeably every time.
Sure, horsepower wins races (every time) -- but how often do you race?

Equally to the point, how often do you want to be up there in those upper-RPM ranges? My answer is "when I need/want to be." And this is where torque lift, particularly down low, is nice, because it (dramatically) reduces when I need or want to be.

That makes for a (much) more-pleasant driving experience in every-day use; the big difference right now with the "6" boils down to this: For many routine maneuvers on the road in stock trim your usual "best response" is to drop down two gears on the MTX. Tuned, that's one gear. Oh sure, you still CAN drop the two, but now you're well in excess of the requirement for that particular maneuver.

That I appreciate far more than raw output, and here's the thing -- while I doubt that you're reducing the margins *much* by lifting the redline into the upper 6,000s, I don't think anyone knows by how much, and the person who finds out is going to cry. If I had a use for that lift in everyday driving I'd do it, but I don't. Down the road I may -- but not right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #197 (Edited)
Sure, horsepower wins races (every time) -- but how often do you race?

Equally to the point, how often do you want to be up there in those upper-RPM ranges? My answer is "when I need/want to be." And this is where torque is nice, because it (dramatically) reduces when I need or want to be.

That makes for a (much) more-pleasant driving experience in every-day use; the big difference right now with the "6" boils down to this: For many routine maneuvers on the road in stock trim your usual "best response" is to drop down two gears on the MTX. Tuned, that's one gear. Oh sure, you still CAN drop the two, but now you're well in excess of the requirement for that particular maneuver.

That I appreciate far more than raw output, and here's the thing -- while I doubt that you're reducing the margins *much* by lifting the redline into the upper 6,000s, I don't think anyone knows by how much, and the person who finds out is going to cry. If I had a use for that lift in everyday driving I'd do it, but I don't. Down the road I may -- but not right now.
You are bringing up the irony in this. We are debating how much to limit ourselves. Realistically as you are saying, what is most important is how often we as drivers decide to rev how high. If we have excellent self discipline we should bump the rev limiter up to 7000 and just pay attention to how we drive, limiting our time at high rpm.

It's like with the top speed limiter, I don't ever think I'll drive above it, but why limit myself unessessarily? You never know if you may need to outrun some gangbangers in a ricer Honda or some other road raging luntic someday.

Now that my rev limit is at 6500 I'm not running right up to it at wot, typically I'll just shift about 6300.

I thinkim talking myself into bumping the rev limiter to 6800 permanently, if for no other reason than because I can, like a Lexus RX350 driver that never goes off road, but they could if they needed to.
 

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I started with cars that didn't HAVE rev limiters. If you went too far you found out the expensive way.

I have no quarrel with someone who says "screw it, shut the nanny off"; that's fine. Just accept that it might have undesirable consequences.
 

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Trying to hold off on exhaust for a bit. Between dealer visits and local ricers always trying to race everything I dont need the attention. But the numbers look promising with the exhaust added.
 

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Trying to hold off on exhaust for a bit. Between dealer visits and local ricers always trying to race everything I dont need the attention. But the numbers look promising with the exhaust added.
I think the point of the above graph was that the improvement was with stock intake and exhaust, and is pretty darn close to what solar is getting both replaced. In other words there may not be much to be had by doing those swaps (other than sound profile, which of course is a personal choice.)
 
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