Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I had a full synthetic Amsoil put into my motor some time back. It is rated to last 20,000 mi but I have always been a little hesitate to go that length of time for the oil to be changed (filter is to be changed out at 10,000). So, I was wondering everyone's thoughts on this? I'm not too informed when it comes to oil life. I have had the same oil in my car since 118,000 and am at 126,000 right now. My gut is telling me that I might be pushing my luck with this oil and run the risk of sludge build up. So, thoughts everyone? Should I get changed ASAP or wait?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
Personally, I wouldn't do 20,000 with any type of oil. I change mine at 5000K regardless of whether I use synthetic or the shop uses a blend. It comes out way to dark for me to even think about keeping it in there for 4x that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,572 Posts
Personally, I wouldn't do 20,000 with any type of oil. I change mine at 5000K regardless of whether I use synthetic or the shop uses a blend. It comes out way to dark for me to even think about keeping it in there for 4x that.
This. Hell no would I keep any oil for 20k miles, that's like 2 years of driving for me. I don't even let my coolant get that old.

I change it every 5000 miles. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic.
This as well. Nice oil in our motors, cheap and readily available at most Walmarts for ~$23/5q jug (the v6 takes 5.5q). I run it with K&N Filters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
Yeah, I didn't mention it earlier, but I use Mobil1 if I do it myself, and if I'm having a shop do it, I try and find one that uses the Mobil blend (Clean 5000, I think).

I admit to using cheap filters, though. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,608 Posts
The only way I'd run an extended oil-change interval (OCI) of any significant length would be if I had a used-oil oil analysis (UOA) to back it up. Every single car is different and you can't just say "Oh it's a synthetic. It can go for 10k miles." even if the bottle says so. OCI's change over time as driving conditions change and mechanical issues arise, so it's usually a good idea to gets UOAs performed regularly to make sure your engine is happy with your fluid/filter/OCI combination. Blackstone Labs will test your sample and interpret your results for ~$20.

If all of that sounds like a waste of time and money to you then do what the other guys recommended: Mobil1 oil and a quality filter (e.g. Mobil1, K&N, Motorcraft/OEM) and change every 5k miles. Wally World usually carries a 5.5qt bottle for less than $30 and Amazon usually has good prices on filters.

Don't forget that filter quality is JUST as important as oil quality.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
normally you change your oil because it is dirty, it doesn't really break down. the better the filter, the longer you can go but def. not 20k. The only reason I use synthetic is because it maintains its viscosity under diff. conditions but I still wont go over 5k. the NAPA Nascar filters very fine particles and its cheaper than the NAPA Gold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Guys, thank you. From the get go, my gut was telling me not to keep it in there for 20K. So, I am going to get it changed today as well (in addition to getting my tire patched; stupid nail and getting my batter replaced). Gotta love owning cars. haha

Honestly, I have just not had the time to get my oil changed out. I have had a lot of circumstances arise recently. That's the only reason why I pushed my oil the way that I did. Would you all recommend Vavoline's full synthetic?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
I say go with Mobil1 if you can, but if Valvoline is what you can get, that should be fine. Really almost any oil (of the proper weight) is fine as long as you maintain the car properly. Check it every once in a while, and change it at 5000 (or earlier if it starts getting dirty faster).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
MOST synthetic oil will do for 5K OCI. So I get whichever is on sale. ( which usually is Penzoil Platinum in my area )
I always use Carquest Blue oil filter on all my vehicles.
My Bro's VW Tiguon is 10K oil change interval. :huh:

Just cause the oil can do 20K doesn't mean it will last 20K to our engine. Each engine,enviroment, and driving style beats the oil differently. If the manufacturer book on the car doesn't say some ridicolous high number. 5K OCI with synthetic will be more then enough.
@xtmesisx best said it.. If you want to ensure you can go longer OCI then that. Then get an UOA ( Used Oil Analysis ). Then there's numbers to back it up if extending is usable in your application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
I've been running Amsoil since my car was new. I change the oil and filter once a year (about 20,000 miles annually). Car has 186,xxx miles on it and never had an oil related problem. I've had several cars over the past 15 years go well over 100,000 miles with the same change interval and never had an oil related issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
I do 5K oil changes with Mobil1 0W-20 with dealer-bought filters and crush rings. I actually hand deliver the filter plus the oil to my mechanic and he charges me $30, which is fine as I'm too busy and too old to want to do it any more, but I know it's still done right. So it still costs me under $70 for an oil change ($30 oil (Walmart), $8filter + crush ring, $30 labor). If Mobil is right and I get 2% better gas mileage with their oil, that brings my cost down to well under $50 per change with the additional gas savings. I put less than 10K miles on my car a year, so it's less than $100 for both oil changes annually which at my age is just great knowing I'm using the right stuff all the time.

Now if you want really, really, clean oil you might be able to do it this way that I learned by accident almost 30 years ago. I had a Toyota MR2 and it had a side mounted oil filter that always dumped oil down the side of the block and pan when i removed it. One night I was changing the oil and i got the idea to just let it drain all night and perhaps there would be less oil left in the filter when I unscrewed it the next day. To my surprise, when I unscrewed the filter it was BONE DRY the next day. I changed the oil and was even MORE SURPRISED to find that my oil stayed wickedly clean on the dip stick throughout the entire oil cycle. It never got dark at all! My guess is that if your engine design lends itself to complete drainage over a 24 hour timeframe, you will be pleased with draining the oil over a longer period if you can afford that luxury.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I run 7,500 and did a Blackstone used oil report. It said everything was fine, sodium was a bit high (unknown - could be coolant leak but there is no coolant leak), and to try 9,000 miles next time. I use Mobil 1 5w-20 with Mobil 1 oil filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Personally, I wouldn't do 20,000 with any type of oil. I change mine at 5000K regardless of whether I use synthetic or the shop uses a blend. It comes out way to dark for me to even think about keeping it in there for 4x that.
You do know the color has absolutely nothing to do with the quality of the oil?
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top