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powdercoating the OEM rims a black color? I have a liquid platinum silver car so I think it would look sweet. Problem is, where or how can I do it, and how much would it cost?
 

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I've seen that before and will look awesome on Liquid Platinum, but I don't know where to get it done.
 

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powdercoating the OEM rims a black color? I have a liquid platinum silver car so I think it would look sweet. Problem is, where or how can I do it, and how much would it cost?
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personally i dont like the factory 18s at all and powder coating wouldnt help make them better but we all have our own taste i do have a question to add to this post being this is my first AWD car when i buy rims do i buy FWD or RWD rims or does it not really matter?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
personally i dont like the factory 18s at all and powder coating wouldnt help make them better but we all have our own taste i do have a question to add to this post being this is my first AWD car when i buy rims do i buy FWD or RWD rims or does it not really matter?
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To be sure, I don't honestly know. However, out of gut feeling, I would say it wouldn't matter. However, double check with others.

And feel free to hijack my threads anytime, I don't mind. [non-sarcastic]
 

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personally i dont like the factory 18s at all and powder coating wouldnt help make them better but we all have our own taste i do have a question to add to this post being this is my first AWD car when i buy rims do i buy FWD or RWD rims or does it not really matter?
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I don't think there is such a thing as FWD or RWD rims. Some rim set will be like .5 larger for the rear wheels, which is known as "staggered." AWD cars should not use staggered wheels. Also, you must make sure that the wheels you buy will fit. There isn't much room in our wheel wells and we have very large brakes, which have to clear the lip of the rims.
 

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To be sure, I don't honestly know. However, out of gut feeling, I would say it wouldn't matter. However, double check with others.

And feel free to hijack my threads anytime, I don't mind. [non-sarcastic]
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sorry for the thread jacking lol and when you buy rims there are certain rims for FWD and RWD
the RWD ones tend to have a lip ill make a new thread ninecoronas :)
 

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RWD cars tend to use wheels with low offset therefore having bigger lip while FWD cars tend to use wheels with higher offset. I'm not sure if there is any strict rule of when to use high offset and when to use low offset.
Offset, width and rim diameter are what you need to consider when shopping wheels for your car, not FWD or RWD rim.
 

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RWD cars tend to use wheels with low offset therefore having bigger lip while FWD cars tend to use wheels with higher offset. I'm not sure if there is any strict rule of when to use high offset and when to use low offset.
Offset, width and rim diameter are what you need to consider when shopping wheels for your car, not FWD or RWD rim.
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Offset is used to clear large brakes like ours.
 

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Look at ADR for rims. They make some pretty nice styles that will look good on the MS6.
 

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... that and rim size.

Certain 17" wheels will fit the MS6... basically be able to clear the calipers. Some may not. 18" and 19" wheels are all basically in the clear. The VERY important things to look at for the MS6 is the offset. Even with rolling the fenders, an offset (ET) under 45 isn't going to work. The higher you can get the better... I'd probably say to go with 50, if not then 48. Wheel width has an effect as well... 7 or 7.5 giving you a bit more freedom with the offset (meaning that 45 offset should work with 7" width, but not 8" width). If you are going with 8" width... ET 50 has been shown to work for most. ET48 may work depending on your tires... no guarantee there though.

Research shows the safe bet is 18" or 19" wheels, 7" or 7.5" width and ET 48 or 50.
 

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Hmm, I think inside rim diameter is important to clear the brake. Having the right offset and width combination will clear the fender and the suspension.
I couldn't find any information on the relationship between offset and FWD/RWD. Any expert here to confirm?

Look at ADR for rims. They make some pretty nice styles that will look good on the MS6.
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Yeah, I have ADR on mine. They fit good but they are a bit heavy though.
 

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Hmm, I think inside rim diameter is important to clear the brake. Having the right offset and width combination will clear the fender and the suspension.
I couldn't find any information on the relationship between offset and FWD/RWD. Any expert here to confirm?
Yeah, I have ADR on mine. They fit good but they are a bit heavy though.
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pic?
 

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Did you change the springs yet?
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Nope, they are stock. I don't think I will since the bumper likes to touch down on steep ramp already. If I lower the car I would have to be extremely careful.
 

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there was already a thread about this like 2 months ago. pictures also of people who have done it. its either under mazdaspeed section or wheels/tires or whatever.
 

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Did you change the springs yet?
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One thing to keep in mind with wheel offsets-the suspension bearings are designed to take a designed load based on the stock offset and wheel weight. Adding more (positive) offset can over stress the wheel bearings and other suspension pieces and result in premature wear or even failure. Years ago I owned a 1982 Celica GTS that had 14-7 wheels from the Supra (factory) but the rear wheel bearings constantly failed because of the load on them (failed about every 30-40K miles). The negative offset (wheel center is further out than the center point between rim flanges) helps to self correct the steering on FWD cars so throwing this off can make your steering return suffer unless you have more caster put in to compensate.
I hope this makes some sense. Keep in mind, wheels are unsprung weight (weight not supported or controlled by springs/shocks). Increasing unsprung weight makes the car more "nervous" on bumpy roads as the shocks and springs try to control something with more weight.
I guess in a nutshell, my recommendation is to stay as close to original offset as possible and look to keep any wheel weight increase to a minimum (less is better).
 

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You've got that backwards. Postive offset pushes the wheel center towards the outside of the car (out towards the fender) and negative offset brings it closer to the center of the car (in towards the shock and suspension arm side).

As mentioned previous... go with ET 48-50. That is about as close to the stock offset as you are going to get with most aftermarket wheels.
 

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I was thinking about powdercoating just some of the spokes... Or get Motegi Track-lite 17"s.

[attachmentid=17409]
 
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