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My oil light comes on at idle but shuts off if I touch the throttle at all, and doesnt come on at all while driving. I know I do have a oil leak (valve cover gasket) but this just started recently and the leak has been there for a while.
Was curious if anybody else has had this issue and what the problem could possibly be coming from.
I can take a video later if it will help.

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My oil light comes on at idle but shuts off if I touch the throttle at all, and doesnt come on at all while driving. I know I do have a oil leak (valve cover gasket) but this just started recently and the leak has been there for a while.
Was curious if anybody else has had this issue and what the problem could possibly be coming from.
I can take a video later if it will help.

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This could be several different things.
1. Oil at the recommended level (check your oil level on flat ground wait 5-10 min after running)
2. Oil pressure sender switch connector loose (disconnect, clean, re-connect OPS)
3. Oil pressure switch working properly (test or replace OPS)

4. Possible oil pump pickup clog. (drop oil pan and clean pickup)
5. Possible oil pump failure. (drop oil pan and replace pump)
6. Internal motor damage. (replace/re-build motor)


I would check 1 and 2 first. If you have an oil pressure tester then I would connect that and check your motor pressure. If not then the cheapest way is to replace the OPS (~$5-$10).
After 1-3 the job gets a little more involved.


Good luck. (mine was doing the exact same thing and I cleaned the connector with great results.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This could be several different things.
1. Oil at the recommended level (check your oil level on flat ground wait 5-10 min after running)
2. Oil pressure sender switch connector loose (disconnect, clean, re-connect OPS)
3. Oil pressure switch working properly (test or replace OPS)

4. Possible oil pump pickup clog. (drop oil pan and clean pickup)
5. Possible oil pump failure. (drop oil pan and replace pump)
6. Internal motor damage. (replace/re-build motor)


I would check 1 and 2 first. If you have an oil pressure tester then I would connect that and check your motor pressure. If not then the cheapest way is to replace the OPS (~$5-$10).
After 1-3 the job gets a little more involved.


Good luck. (mine was doing the exact same thing and I cleaned the connector with great results.)
I have done the first step but I found it odd that it is only at idle, is that because the pressure increases while on the gas?

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I would remove the sensor and put a physical gauge on there.

If it shows low pressure.....

DO NOT ignore this. The "idiot light" comes on at a VERY low oil pressure and there are no circumstances where its acceptable, even at idle. If the indicator light is truthfully telling you pressure is low you either fix it or prepare to buy a new engine.
 

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I have done the first step but I found it odd that it is only at idle, is that because the pressure increases while on the gas?

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Yes pressure increases with rpm most of these sensors are basically an “on/off” switch so as they age and go bad they don’t come on at the correct pressure causing you’re problem my old eclipse 2.4 did this and most recently our 07 charger 5.7 factory patrol car both were just the sensors the charger was actually leaking not through where it screwed into the block but through the plug it was very odd lol


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I have done the first step but I found it odd that it is only at idle, is that because the pressure increases while on the gas?

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What @tickerguy and @bluedevil6 say is quite true. It can happen at idle because of engine shake and a bad connector/failing sender or because the oil pressure is indeed dropping low (worn or clogged parts)


Figure it our sooner than later.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you all for the info I will definitely figure this out soon.
Is there any cel that could be thrown from this?
My cel is always on do to a air leak that I haven't been able to fix yet...

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Thank you all for the info I will definitely figure this out soon.
Is there any cel that could be thrown from this?
My cel is always on do to a air leak that I haven't been able to fix yet...

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the charger eventually threw one, something to the effect of "oil pressure sender low voltage" IIRC but my eclipse never did
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, generally not from this.
List all your codes. We'll help..
P2179 and p2177: idle bank to lean off of 1 and 2. I believe this to be the vacuum leak. I had a smoke test done and there was a small leak out of the egr valve that the mechanic said was barely big enough to trip the cel. I also had the maf sensor replaced at that time.

A little while back I had a code saying something about the cat warm up temp was to cool or something like that, the code went away after just a minute so I never thought much of it. I also have headers with no pre cats.

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P2179 and p2177: idle bank to lean off of 1 and 2. I believe this to be the vacuum leak. I had a smoke test done and there was a small leak out of the egr valve that the mechanic said was barely big enough to trip the cel. I also had the maf sensor replaced at that time.

A little while back I had a code saying something about the cat warm up temp was to cool or something like that, the code went away after just a minute so I never thought much of it. I also have headers with no pre cats.

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If you have a CAI (I think you said you did in the PM but I cant remember) it will cause those codes, mine does. Apparently it has something to do with the extra air passing the MAF it tricks the computer or something like that search around here there are more than a few threads on it.
 

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If you have a CAI (I think you said you did in the PM but I cant remember) it will cause those codes, mine does. Apparently it has something to do with the extra air passing the MAF it tricks the computer or something like that search around here there are more than a few threads on it.
I do have a cai but also when I first bought the car the cel would occasionally go off for a few days, since the mechanic told me the leak was barely big enough to trip the cel I assumed that it didnt always trip it but now that the cel is always on that the leak has just gotten worse.

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I do have a cai but also when I first bought the car the cel would occasionally go off for a few days, since the mechanic told me the leak was barely big enough to trip the cel I assumed that it didnt always trip it but now that the cel is always on that the leak has just gotten worse.

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in that case heres what I have from my FSM on those codes hopefully this helps you at least somewhat
 

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Discussion Starter #14
in that case heres what I have from my FSM on those codes hopefully this helps you at least somewhat
That is extremely helpful thank you. I do believe I'm going to start at step 9 though. I plan on getting a new egr valve soon. Will definitely be coming back to this if that doesn't fix the problem.

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Oh and could the oil light just simply be that I have a leak somewhere that is bad he to trigger the low pressure?
I have to put oil in the car pretty regularly.

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Oh and could the oil light just simply be that I have a leak somewhere that is bad he to trigger the low pressure?
I have to put oil in the car pretty regularly.

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I do the same. Could you add a little to what you mean by "regularly"?


I use about 1.5-2qts every 3,000mi or so. I also have a leaky timing cover seal and now a valve cover too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I do the same. Could you add a little to what you mean by "regularly"?


I use about 1.5-2qts every 3,000mi or so. I also have a leaky timing cover seal and now a valve cover too.
Umm I am currently going through one of the bigger jugs (I want to say it's a gallon but not 100%) every month. Which for me is about 1500 miles average a month.

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Umm I am currently going through one of the bigger jugs (I want to say it's a gallon but not 100%) every month. Which for me is about 1500 miles average a month.

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That’s ALOT of oil, does it smoke at all or is it leaking that much?


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