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I recently found this little puddle of oil when I installed my SRI, it seems like it might be comming from the gearbox? How could i fix this?
 

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Lowspeed
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This I copy and paste from another member.
Mine does the same and its seal costs you $6.63. but labor is "o-ring" yeah!! $650.00 depend on where you take it too! So if you're a do it yourself. Labor time is about 3-5 hrs.
Goodluck,
Well to me too. Im going todo it today or tomorrow.
Oh don't forget to order the seal 17-131(pivot shaft seal) and 17-530 is the gearbox breather bc it's dirty now (look at the picture-the breather is the part on verytop that is on top of your trans. plate). or go to..
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f111/how-shaft-pivot-seal-replaced-116267/



ok so i noticed trans fluid leaking and traced it to the rubber boot on the pressure plate on top of the trans. found some helpful threads to help pinpoint it but no "how to's" so hope this helps cause the dealer charges BUKU dollars to fix (yea what else is new). i'll start by saying that i consider myself a noob under the hood but i can figure stuff out. so feel free to chime in cause i cant name all the parts involved or dont know if there is a easier way to do it. all i can tell u is that this is what i did, everything works and best of all no more leaky leaks.

the seal from the dealer was only $6.50
part # A60117131

1. remove the air box for the intake (i'm all stock) and the battery, battery tray.
under this rubber boot is the seal. will be fluid all over this area
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

2. disconnect the clutch cables. i used needle nose pliers to pop off the top one the other is connected to a bracket on the plate that has to come off anyway so i just pulled out the two 12mm bolts holding it
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

3. remove the motor mount. before you do this you must set the front on jack stands and support the engine from under with a floor jack to release tension on the motor mount bolt.
(i'm on h&r's so i had to jack it from the side and slide a old rim with a box on top under the trans to support it.... had no jack stands).
at that point remove the bolt going thru the chassis(on top in pic) 18 mm i think and be sure not to lose the nut on the back side of the mount. then the other bolt going into the trans
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

2nd bolt going into trans, its under the clutch cables
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

3rd bolt going into trans, and the nut from the chassis bolt that u already dropped into the engine bay. mount should come right off now http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

4.pull the rest of the 12mm bolts out of the plate and break the seal holding it to the trans (i used a big flat head screw driver)

5. ok i'm not 100% sure this bolt had to come out but the shaft was fighting me to come out and seemed to come alot easier when i did. its located on the front of the trans and is lined up perfectly with the shaft. once it was out i was able to wiggle the shaft out (no homo)
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

shaft out
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

6. remove cotter pin, a punch is perfect if you have one. i dont so i used a
t25 torx driver and a hammer to tap it out.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

7. once the pin is out slide it off. i think it only goes back on one way but be sur to keep an eye on how it came apart
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367

once thats off the plate slides right off, the seal is right on top.
put on the new one and get her back together
http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachme...1&d=1334789367
 

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This I copy and paste from another member.
Mine does the same and its seal costs you $6.63. but labor is "o-ring" yeah!! $650.00 depend on where you take it too! So if you're a do it yourself. Labor time is about 3-5 hrs.
Goodluck,
Well to me too. Im going todo it today or tomorrow.
Oh don't forget to order the seal 17-131(pivot shaft seal) and 17-530 is the gearbox breather bc it's dirty now (look at the picture-the breather is the part on verytop that is on top of your trans. plate). or go to..




ok so i noticed trans fluid leaking and traced it to the rubber boot on the pressure plate on top of the trans. found some helpful threads to help pinpoint it but no "how to's" so hope this helps cause the dealer charges BUKU dollars to fix (yea what else is new). i'll start by saying that i consider myself a noob under the hood but i can figure stuff out. so feel free to chime in cause i cant name all the parts involved or dont know if there is a easier way to do it. all i can tell u is that this is what i did, everything works and best of all no more leaky leaks.

the seal from the dealer was only $6.50
part # A60117131

1. remove the air box for the intake (i'm all stock) and the battery, battery tray.
under this rubber boot is the seal. will be fluid all over this area


2. disconnect the clutch cables. i used needle nose pliers to pop off the top one the other is connected to a bracket on the plate that has to come off anyway so i just pulled out the two 12mm bolts holding it


3. remove the motor mount. before you do this you must set the front on jack stands and support the engine from under with a floor jack to release tension on the motor mount bolt.
(i'm on h&r's so i had to jack it from the side and slide a old rim with a box on top under the trans to support it.... had no jack stands).
at that point remove the bolt going thru the chassis(on top in pic) 18 mm i think and be sure not to lose the nut on the back side of the mount. then the other bolt going into the trans


2nd bolt going into trans, its under the clutch cables


3rd bolt going into trans, and the nut from the chassis bolt that u already dropped into the engine bay. mount should come right off now


4.pull the rest of the 12mm bolts out of the plate and break the seal holding it to the trans (i used a big flat head screw driver)

5. ok i'm not 100% sure this bolt had to come out but the shaft was fighting me to come out and seemed to come alot easier when i did. its located on the front of the trans and is lined up perfectly with the shaft. once it was out i was able to wiggle the shaft out (no homo)


shaft out


6. remove cotter pin, a punch is perfect if you have one. i dont so i used a
t25 torx driver and a hammer to tap it out.


7. once the pin is out slide it off. i think it only goes back on one way but be sur to keep an eye on how it came apart


once thats off the plate slides right off, the seal is right on top.
put on the new one and get her back together
Wow! Good Job! I might suggest you put it in Neutral before pulling the assembly as it should make it much easier to drop to drop back in. Also, you can look inside and line up the shift forks if need be, if it doesn't drop in. They will move with the aid of a screw driver. It helps to either have the wheel off the ground or push in the clutch to releive tension on the gears so they move easier.
Confirm there is no rust or pits on the shaft to damage the new seal. Use 1800 and 2400 grit emery cloth to polish. Lube the seal well with grease and confirm the vent in the trans isn't plugged and you should be good to go! << Although this one is likely all back together already.
 
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