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I have a question was thinking it might be a good idea to upgrade the oil cooler on my mazdaspeed6. First off where is the oil cooler located? Second can we (mazdaspeed) community have any options when it comes to upgrading our cooling systems? can we use a generic oil cooler and modify it to fit our vehicles?
 

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been thinking about this also, interested in what ppl have done or the options out there. I've seen a small unit with mini-fans already in place it can be had with diff size fittings for the plumbing job.

Hope ppl answer your question.

Y
 

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You'd have to swap to the spin-on oil filter adapter, then use a sandwich adapter with that, to run an auxiliary oil cooler.

Or...you could swap to the spin-on oil filter, use a larger filter (which holds more oil), and do the BSD, which adds another qt of oil capacity to the sump...and you'd have basically increased the overall oil volume by about 20% or so, which will enhance vehicle cooling and extend oil change intervals.

Ptpperformance is working on a stock oil cooler delete/replace kit, which isn't yet available.
 

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I don't understand how that little thing connecting to the oil filter adapter can even do much for cooling/warming the oil... Anyone know? I bet upgrading will actually do something.
 

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It transfers the heat from the oil to the coolant which gets rid of the heat in your radiator
 

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QUOTE (Brandini @ Apr 11 2009, 12:50 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1546093
It doesn't do the cooling man, it's just how the oil gets converted to a hose then sent to a cooler, probably integrated into the radiator...[/b]
its done in the block like a duramax
 

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QUOTE (ktan91 @ Apr 11 2009, 01:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1546091
I don't understand how that little thing connecting to the oil filter adapter can even do much for cooling/warming the oil... Anyone know? I bet upgrading will actually do something.[/b]
It's more of an oil heater to help it get up to temp

What you'd wan to do is get in in-line thermostat, put in on the oil RETURN line, then hook the cooler to the thermostat's cooler side.

so it'd be:

Code:
car feed->--sandwich plate-->---radiator->-thermostat------(if temp is above 180 deg)-->--aftermarket stacked fin type oil cooler
                                            |                                                                      |
                                            |                                                                      |
car return--<--sandwich plate return---<---Thermostat--------<---------<-----------<----------<-------------<-------
 

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+1 Brandini

Basically the stock oil cooler is more of an oil warmer, to help warm up the oil for people who like to step on the throttle right after turning on the car in the mornings. Since it cools your oil via the coolant, the coolest your oil can ever be will be your current coolant temp, which is roughly 190-200F, or 210F+ for some FMIC owners.

The only problem with "adding" an oil cooler to this setup, is the amount of routing and replacement is annoying, and then you add a lot of areas you will then have to check for leaks overtime.
 

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QUOTE (crossbow @ Apr 11 2009, 11:16 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1546102
+1 Brandini

Basically the stock oil cooler is more of an oil warmer, to help warm up the oil for people who like to step on the throttle right after turning on the car in the mornings. Since it cools your oil via the coolant, the coolest your oil can ever be will be your current coolant temp, which is roughly 190-200F, or 210F+ for some FMIC owners.

The only problem with "adding" an oil cooler to this setup, is the amount of routing and replacement is annoying, and then you add a lot of areas you will then have to check for leaks overtime.[/b]

That makes no sense since when you first start up your coolant is cold as well.

You don't want to really cool your engine oil all that much, it's designed to get to perform at certain temperatures. You cool it down too much and it will stay at 5w, good luck with that.


I'd worry more about my transmission oil getting too hot, or my transfer case, and rear diff burning up before worrying about cooling the engine oil further.
 

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QUOTE (Brandini @ Apr 11 2009, 12:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1546127
That right there shows that you know nothing about how oil functions and what those numbers mean.

Read this: http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=108844[/b]

Thanks for that great link. Lots of good reading there.


It still doesn't change the fact at cold start up both the oil and the coolant are cold. Which was the point of my post.




Now on to what I don't know. I know at operating temperature 5w-30 is thinner then when it's cold. If you cool it down it will be thicker then it should be at normal operating temperature. So you want thicker oil while at normal operating temperature?
 

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Umm.. I thought that block thing DOES cool it down.. No oil flows through those tubes.. I learned it the hard way! (when I did the spin on oil filter mod, there were these 2 tubes coming from the oil cooler I assumed was oil because it looked it flowed through the oil spin on adapter.. man was I wrong.. COOLANT EVERYWHERE) So pretty much it's just coolant flowing through a heatsink thing that sort of flows through some of the oil.
 

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QUOTE (franchize @ Apr 11 2009, 07:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1546193
It still doesn't change the fact at cold start up both the oil and the coolant are cold. Which was the point of my post.

Now on to what I don't know. I know at operating temperature 5w-30 is thinner then when it's cold. If you cool it down it will be thicker then it should be at normal operating temperature. So you want thicker oil while at normal operating temperature?[/b]
Ok so first point, coolant warms up faster than oil, so it will help warm the oil. Past 180degress it will not really help much at all. But the help at startup is greatly appreciated with reduced wear.

Second point, oil is THINNER when WARM, just like molasses. You have to remember, the oil weight is the SECOND number BUT at cooler temperatures the oil is thicker and hoter it is thicker, the second number (in this case the 30) is the thickness at 100 degrees Celsius. First number indicates the range as in how it reacts to cold, so a 5W-30 is thicker than 0W-30 AT STARTUP ONLY even though BOTH are TOO THICK to flow properly and lubricate, at operating temperature they are IDENTICAL.

QUOTE (ktan91 @ Apr 11 2009, 08:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1546205
Umm.. I thought that block thing DOES cool it down.. No oil flows through those tubes.. I learned it the hard way! (when I did the spin on oil filter mod, there were these 2 tubes coming from the oil cooler I assumed was oil because it looked it flowed through the oil spin on adapter.. man was I wrong.. COOLANT EVERYWHERE) So pretty much it's just coolant flowing through a heatsink thing that sort of flows through some of the oil.[/b]
O well shit! Get rid of that! Then get a sandwich plat adapter that converts to AN fittings, get a filter bracket, and an external thermostat and you can have the best setup:
Oil flow goes like so: ('-----' means hose)
Oil feed port of spin on conversion THROUGH sandwich plate where temp and pressure are measured to spin on adapter ----- to filter ----- into low temp side of thermostat then ----- into the return line of the spin on adapter through the sandwich plate and back into the engine via the spin on conversion

The high temp side of the termostat:
Thermostat high side ----- into the cooler then ----- high temp return side

The thermostat always allows 5% flow through the cooler to keep pressures equal and at about 160 degrees will start opening up until at 180 degrees all your oil is going through the cooler. This has two advantages, you can run your specd oil and measure oil temp and pressure with your gauges and know that your car will only start cooling oil when it's hot and never overcool your oil. Also, if you're on the track, you can watch your gauges and if your oil still gets too hot you can just up-size your cooler and voila, it self regulates.
 
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