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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know how to check the OCV to make sure its good?. I checked the plug going into it and theres 12v there. Unplugged and out of the car the plunger is in the retard (retracted position). I can move the piston with a smalll screwdriver so i know that's not jammed. When i plug it in with the key(ignition) on it does not move...is it supposed to? I used a jumper to apply 12v to each pin in the connector while holding it in my hand and no movement.

Any help or guidance is greatly appreciated..

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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I actually just did this today.

Apply 12v from the cars battery to it. Positive on one terminal, negative on the other. Doesn't matter which, and confirm that it moves its full range.

I used some 22g butt splice connectors to ensure there was a connection to the pins in the ocv, then just pulled some of the insulation off on the wires and touched them to the battery terminals.

I was surprised at how little it moves when voltage is applied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, yes i did find this out. I took a meter to the plug to figure out which side was positive, and made 2 jumpers for the pins. Got it to move so i guess that narrows it down to the VVT actuator which i kinda thought was the problem all along, but was an expensive fix.
 

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It actually doesn't matter which way you test the ocv. Voltage on either terminal will do it.

That's neither here nor there though.

The manual says to make sure that the dimples line up on the end of the vvt actuator, on the end of the intake camshaft. If they don't line up, it says it has to be replaced at that point, cause its a 'precision instrument.' That wouldn't stop me from trying to fix it, but that's up to you :)

What's your car doing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It has the bad rattle at start-up. All the videos ive seen of it were on speeds and the writer at the dealer even told me he hasn't seen any go on the regular 6's. So i was trying to eliminate any other problems. Bought the actuator online from montgomery mazda, but the dealer wants like $1200 to replace it.
 

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Im assuming youre comfortable with tools and working on your car. Its a somewhat involved undertaking to replace that actuator from what i read. Ill have pictures and stuff up to the point where it can be removed probably tomorrow, but im stuck trying to figure out how im gonna get the crank pulley bolt out :)

Good luck with your fix!
 

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not typically but not out of the realm of possibility. hard starting would usually be ignition coils, battery going out, bad or dirty MAF, clogged injectors and etc.
 

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Thanks for the reply. The reason I ask is that I have code P2088 which says it's for the Oil Control Valve. The car is hard to start but other than that it runs fine although the idle is low at 500rpms. Now i'm smelling gas at times too. This car is making me pull my hair out!
 

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I'm getting code 2088 on my Mazda 6. I have changed all the sensors and still after driving about 15 minutes engine light comes on reading code 2088. Anyone can help would be greatly appreciated. Going to go check voltage .
 
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