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Alright, it's about time for my first oil change and I usually put mobil 1 in my cars. I have the oil as well as the filter. I'm wondering if it's too early to switch to full syntheic or if I need to flush the current oil out. I heard somewhere that for the first 36K or so you should use normal oil and then you can switch. <-Anyone have some input on that. Also, can I just change the oil as normal or should I use some to flush out the current oil? Any input is appreciate.
 

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oh boy...here comes the debate...there has been many of arguments about this with the regular 6's
 

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Alright, it's about time for my first oil change and I usually put mobil 1 in my cars. I have the oil as well as the filter. I'm wondering if it's too early to switch to full syntheic or if I need to flush the current oil out. I heard somewhere that for the first 36K or so you should use normal oil and then you can switch. <-Anyone have some input on that. Also, can I just change the oil as normal or should I use some to flush out the current oil? Any input is appreciate.
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You can change to Synthetic oil any time after the break in is over, but I usually wait about 3000 miles. There is no need to flush out the motor when you change.
 

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I put in Syntec at 2000 miles.
 

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mobil 1 after 1200 miles, no issues
 

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check royalpurple.com they claim 10 hp increase and i believe them. check the site...they have independent sources - video tests. i intend to change it up at 5,000 miles. dealer said i could bring my own oil.
 

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Most cars (GM anyway) come factory filled with Mobil 1. Change to synthetic whenever you want :) I put 500 miles on mine and then changed to Mobile 1 syn. and wouldn't have it any other way!
 

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All the techs at the dealership where I bought my Speed have recommended me using Durablend and not full synthetic. One of them made the comment that all the Mazda seminars he had attended recommended not using synthetic in turbo cars because you want the oil to be able to burn a bit. It goes against everything I've heard before, where it's preferential to use synthetic in a turbo'd car.

I don't know whether to believe them or not.
 

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Mobil 1 full synthetic @ 3000 miles. Last two built motors I switched at 500 miles. Just dont try switching back once you do go full synthetic.
 

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I'd run 10w-30 synthetic. Don't listen to any dealership that tells you otherwise, cause they don't have the slightest ffin clue whats going on.

The whole reason you basically "NEED" to run full synthetic in a turbo car is because of the oil being routed through the turbo. Turbo's get hot...really really really really freaking hot. It cooks the oil to hell and beyond.

Guess what type of oil can handle higher temperatures without breaking down? Thats right! Synthetic!

Running syn in a turbo car reduces the chance of turbo-turds. Don't know what a turbo turd is? It's when the turbo overcooks the oil, and it basically turns into a type of clot that can reduce the flow of oil through the turbo...get enough, and you get a nice trip the dealer for a replacement turbo. Synthetic oils generally have a 30-50F higher ceiling (temp wise) before bad things start happening vs dino based oils. (Remember semi-syn is only about 10% synthetic)

Think all this synthetic talk is bullshit? Go check out the class action lawsuits against VW and Audi because they didn't force the dealers to put full synthetic in the 1.8T engines.

That's my 2 cents. You don't spend nearly 30k on a car to cheap out with some shitty oil and ruin the whole thing.
 

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I got Mobil 1 10W-30 and 5W-50 here. Which one suits better? the 10W-30 cost a little bit more than the 5W-50.
 

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Id go 10-30. Dont think Ive ever seen 5-50 :huh:

50 sounds pretty thick for a turbo motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks a lot for all the reply's. It's interesting to see what everyone has heard. I know I won't switch back once I go synthetic. Anyway thank for the input.
 

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Mobil 1 0W-30 at first oil change (approx. 600 miles). No issues at all. Crossbow is right on about the advantages of full synthetic, although he won't be writing ad copy for Mobil any time soon. ;)
 

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Is it okay for me to bring my own oil to the dealer so they can use it? I guess the bigger question is, will they use it if you bring it, and not keep it for themselves. I guess we'll never know, right? Also, will the change be cheaper because you brought your own oil?
 

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Is it okay for me to bring my own oil to the dealer so they can use it? I guess the bigger question is, will they use it if you bring it, and not keep it for themselves. I guess we'll never know, right? Also, will the change be cheaper because you brought your own oil?
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then why go to the dealer? just go to any oil change shop if u dont want to do it yourself.
 

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5w-50[/b]
With oils, you want the thinnest oil possible that still adequately protects your engine under all circumstances.

Thicker oils don't necessarily protect better...but what they definitely do is rob power and increase oil temps.

For information on oil's...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

I'd stick with 0w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 for the rest of the year for this car as a baseline. That's pretty much the general recommendation for all turbo based I4's (Audi, Sti, Evo, SRT4, etc etc).

Adjust formulation by doing a UOA
http://www.blackstone-labs.com

I'd imagine with the stock A/F ratio's on this car putting a 6s's to utter shame (in terms of rediculously rich), that fuel dilution will most likely be a problem and may require shorter intervals (5k or less). I'd start with a 4k interval after 2,000 or so miles, and send in a UOA and see if there is any fuel dilution occuring.

Btw in case the dealership didn't tell you...you will get higher then NA oil consumption in a turbo car. It's going to happen. Please check your oil level every fillup if possible, or at least every few weeks.
 

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Did 1st oil change @ 2950miles... Am using 5W-30W Synthetic.
I will not use less than 5W. As the Oil gets hot and does what it should, it will break down in Viscosity naturally. And having it break to low means the POOP may hit the fan. At least, it could end up causing the T-bo to wear the Vane shaft faster.
Oil and Water cool this strapped down Monster. So anything that can be done to assist either with cooling is best.
Redline water wetter in the Radiator after at least 1/3rd of coolant removed will drop temps at least 5 deg and help keep them there.
Energy Release in the oil will drop friction and temps translated through oil heat and use. Now we are talking cooler underhood temps also. And just 10-20Deg makes a BIG difference. :)
 
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