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Discussion Starter #1
So after finally receiving 99% of the parts I needed (DAMN YOU WRONG SIZE GASKETS!) I chose today to go ahead and install my OBX Headers, along with some H3 HIDs, (hopefully) most of my lightweight pulleys, new AWR Tranny mount bushings, new spark plugs, and a dual oil filter relocation kit.





Don't mind that throttle body, it's just been stripped down and had the castings filed down in preparation for powdercoat.


First things first, I got the car in the air to do any of the work. Then I pulled of the front bumper, headlights, and foam bumper support. I removed the foam bumper support in order to get myself a couple of extra inches closer to the work in the engine bay. Then I went ahead and pulled off my intake, battery and tray, intake manifold, map sensor, and EGR bracketry.







BTW, that's a brand new "Laboratory Oven" that I got from Good Will for $15. It's good for 430* F, so I'm debating keeping it of selling it. I may borrow a friends PC gun first and see if I'm any good at it before I throw $100 at a PC Gun.


Disconnected all 4 o2 sensor harnesses. In the front it's the large 4 wire Grey and Black connectors, which are pretty easy to identify. The rear was slightly trickier. There are 4 harnesses in a very small area and it's hard to tell what is what, but let me clear that up for anyone else who is thinking about doing this. The passenger side front (which should have a green heat shrink on it), and drivers side rear (which is slightly hidden) are the 2 o2 sensor connections. The driver's side front connector is only 2 wires, and goes to the knock sensor on the back of the block. The other connector is only 1 wire, and I have yet to trace it's final destination.



Then I got down to the nitty-gritty work. Removed the y-pipe first, then the main cat for the front bank, then the dual flex section (without dropping the subframe I may add), all in rapid succession. Which 2 lizards promptly started humping on.



Then I fought the small spaces and a couple arm/hand cramps to get the front collector off. The accessory belt came off after some fighting, but it had to happen in order to get the alternator off. Got the alternator out, and a small piece of advice for those removing the alternator, the plastic cap that shields the wire is actually clipped to the alternator itself, you must insert a flat head screwdriver into the plastic cap, and pry it away in order to get the power wire off. After that I finished removing the rear exhaust manifold, which was considerably easier than the front.



So now here are some random shots of an exhaust manifold-less 6s.

Taken from the front of the catback.






Hopefully I can finish up the installation tomorrow. I was supposed to have help from my friend who is a certified mechanic, but he got called into work. So down a man, taking my time, and having to run a bunch of errands, I'd say I probably got all this done in about 4 hours of true labor. So if I put my nose to the grindstone tomorrow, I may just get this knocked out before 2 friends show up after 5.

Here's what is on the list so far.
  • Drain Oil.
  • Wire up o2 simulator.
  • Swap tranny mount bushings.
  • Buy o2 sensor socket and remove o2 sensors from OEM pipes.
  • Shorten 3 or so exhaust manifold studs to clear the headers.
  • Install o2 sensors into collectors
  • Install collectors.
  • Install new spark plugs.
  • Install o2 simulator.
  • Reinstall intake manifold.
  • Hook up EGR.
  • Install Oil filter relocation kit.
  • Add oil, check for leaks, and figure out require oil amount.
  • Install lightweight alternator pulley.
  • Install alternator and belt.
  • Install Flex pipe section.
  • Install front connector pipe.
  • Fabricate hanger for front connector pipe.
  • Install upper fog HIDs.
  • Reinstall intake.
  • Reinstall headlights, bumpers, fender liner, and wheel.
  • Reinstall battery tray and battery.
  • Double check all connections, and hose fittings.
  • Go for a spin!
If I get lucky, I'm going to run to my friends shop and have the cat in the y-pipe cut out and replaced with a section of pipe. If he's feeling generous, I'm going to see if he'll make a mandrel y-pipe for me. MAYBE I'll get around to getting the other 2 pulleys installed, but that's much less important than getting the car running again.
 

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Damn man... you really dug deep into this project. Good luck on the install portion. Will be watching to see the results. :)
 

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Looks great. If I was closer and had the time i would have loved to have helped out. Good luck and cant wait to hear about the results. Hopefully an audio clip.
 

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Good job man,

You have got a set of stainless balls for putting the OBX's on your car with all of the reported problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have taken a small break in order to eat and do some little things. But as for the headers, all I have left to do is mount the oil filter relocation kit, fill it with oil, and then install the 2 non-collector pieces of the OBX header set. Then stick my intake and bumper back on and I'll be ready to roll!

Today's check list:
  • <strike>Drain Oil.</strike>
  • <strike>Wire up o2 simulator.</strike> Postponing until later date.<strike>
    </strike>
  • Swap tranny mount bushings.
  • <strike>Buy o2 sensor socket and remove o2 sensors from OEM pipes.</strike>
  • <strike>Shorten 3 or so exhaust manifold studs to clear the headers.</strike>
  • <strike>Install o2 sensors into collectors</strike>
  • <strike>Install collectors.</strike>
  • <strike>Install new spark plugs.</strike>
  • <strike>Install o2 simulator.</strike> Postponing until later date.<strike>
    </strike>
  • <strike>Reinstall intake manifold.</strike>
  • <strike>Hook up EGR.</strike>
  • Install Oil filter relocation kit.
  • Add oil, check for leaks, and figure out require oil amount.
  • <strike>Install lightweight alternator pulley.</strike>
  • <strike>Install alternator and belt.</strike>
  • Install Flex pipe section.
  • Install front connector pipe.
  • Fabricate hanger for front connector pipe.
  • Install upper fog HIDs.
  • Reinstall intake.
  • Reinstall headlights, bumpers, fender liner, and wheel.
  • Reinstall battery tray and battery.
  • Double check all connections, and hose fittings.
  • Go for a spin!
I've got a bunch of stuff done, but clearancing the alternator took a LONG time, not to mention that bitch is heavy, and my arms were killing my trying to hold it in place while lying on my back and trying to bolt it in at the same time. Also, the rear collector needed a little more "caressing" in order to fit, as did the EGR. But as of right now, everything is all bolted together, so I'm quite happy. Another very noteworthy piece of info is that I didn't need to lengthen the rear o2 sensor. There is a large plastic wire box that is bolted to the rear valve cover, that has all the o2 sensor clips on the top of it and a fat wiring harness running through it. If you remove that box, and let the harness hang down just slightly, there is plenty of wire for the o2 sensor to connect to. I also relocated the MAP sensor to the space behind the battery in an attempt to clean up the fire wall.

I'm hoping to have a friend come over a little bit later, and we'll knock everything out tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It runs! I got it 95% put back together, and everything seems to work just fine. It feels great so far, even with a big exhaust leak, I need to check all the gaskets and retighten all the flange nuts/bolts. I am going to drop by my friends shop sometime soon to have the rear cat removed, and I'm waiting to give my opinion on their sound until then. And that should about do it for this project for now.

Unfortunately, due to time constraints (my GF's birthday), I wasn't quite able to complete everything I set out to do. For instance, I still need to wire up o2 sims, swap my tranny mount bushings, and perform a small amount of clearancing around one of the pipes to make sure it will not rattle against the subframe. Pics and vids will come later.
 

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QUOTE (Nealio @ Jun 19 2009, 01:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1574924
It runs! I got it 95% put back together, and everything seems to work just fine. It feels great so far, even with a big exhaust leak, I need to check all the gaskets and retighten all the flange nuts/bolts. I am going to drop by my friends shop sometime soon to have the rear cat removed, and I'm waiting to give my opinion on their sound until then. And that should about do it for this project for now.

Unfortunately, due to time constraints (my GF's birthday), I wasn't quite able to complete everything I set out to do. For instance, I still need to wire up o2 sims, swap my tranny mount bushings, and perform a small amount of clearancing around one of the pipes to make sure it will not rattle against the subframe. Pics and vids will come later.[/b]
Good job man.I hope the leak is something simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As of right now it's very simple, that 3 bolt flange between the flex pipe and the y-pipe only has 2 bolts in it :p. I couldn't find one of the bolts so a quick run to the hardware store tomorrow should fix that problem. Chances are that sometime next weekend, I'm going to pull flex-pipe, y-pipe, and the pipe that connects to the front bank out, and just retorque EVERYTHING (especially the alternator) just as a precautionary measure.
 

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QUOTE (Nealio @ Jun 19 2009, 01:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1574946
As of right now it's very simple, that 3 bolt flange between the flex pipe and the y-pipe only has 2 bolts in it :p . I couldn't find one of the bolts so a quick run to the hardware store tomorrow should fix that problem. Chances are that sometime next weekend, I'm going to pull flex-pipe, y-pipe, and the pipe that connects to the front bank out, and just retorque EVERYTHING (especially the alternator) just as a precautionary measure.[/b]
Good deal man,I am glad this is coming together for you


Now buy my Phantom grip........... :laugh:

Just make me an offer if you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
LOL, I'd love to have some sort of traction and I still need to put my ACT clutch in, so it would be nice, but I just paid for my summer classes and tonight is my GF's birthday, so I doubt I'll even have $50 left over to offer you for it
 

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QUOTE (Nealio @ Jun 19 2009, 02:01 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1574952
LOL, I'd love to have some sort of traction and I still need to put my ACT clutch in, so it would be nice, but I just paid for my summer classes and tonight is my GF's birthday, so I doubt I'll even have $50 left over to offer you for it[/b]
I would consider a payment plan too...... :laugh:

Not like I couldn't hunt you down this Oct when I come to Florida :laugh:
 

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I am interested to hear about your experiences following the install. I had an OBX 4-1 header on my Protege5. I was very happy with it! Never had any broken welds or anything like has been described on here. However, I didnt have the clearance issues like the 6s does. Install was way easier.

While a header is currently low on my priority list, if this was shown to be successful, it would make it more of a near term option. Currently the MSDS is the only one I had seriously considered. Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I do not recommend these headers for the average enthusiast or those short of patience. I have a lot of experience and a lot of tools, and it still strained my ability. You cannot be afraid to try and attack small scale problems such as clearance issues, whether it be inconvenient to reach bolts or pipes hitting subframe/axles, or pipes hitting subframes or alternators. You need to be willing to fabricate hangers and exhaust piping. And you need to have a good troubleshooting sense.

I will gladly share any information with anyone who attempts to install a set of these headers, as well as give hints and pictures to explain everything to the fullest of my ability, but beware this is by no means easy. Then again, no headers on this car are easy, but if you want a simply bolt on affair, go MSDS or CP-E.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I've got some good news and some bad news.

Bad news. I got everything bolted back together and fired her up, and it instantly sounded like crap. Like super-crap. Like a Geo without an exhaust crap. So I went back underneath and made sure everything was tight (a couple bolts were a little loose), fired her up again, still sounded like super crap. I crawled back underneath while my car was running, and exhaust gas is just pouring out of one of the flex-pipes. Which means I'm hearing an exhaust leak for only 3 of the cylinders, which would explain the Geo-like sound.

Good news. She hauls some serious ass! I let her warm up for a while so I could check for oil leaks and any other miscellaneous problems. After everything looked good (Except for that stupid exhaust) I blasted through first, shifted into 2nd and got A LOT of wheel spin before shutting her down. I think that once the exhaust leak is taken care of, this car will be a beast.

I guess the bad news really isn't all that bad, I can get replacement flex-pipe for super cheap, and have it welded in when I remove the last cat.

Pictures will be posted tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here is a comparison shot of all the pipes in the OBX kit.



A couple random pictures of the rear collector install.









Alternator Pulley install.







Here is a picture that shows how much of the alternator needs to be trimmed when using 1 inch spacers.



Dual Oil Filter Relocation Install. I was hoping to mount this on the inside frame rail, right underneath the intake piping, but it just wasn't fitting to well. So, it was decided at like 2 AM, that this was the best location for it.









My roommate got a lot more pictures using his SLR, and he's supposed to be uploading them for me to share soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was also surprised to see how much lighter all the OBX parts were. I saved a total of 22# on the front end.











 

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So in total the fitment issues were fixed by some small pipe bending, and extention bolts for the alternator?


How hard is it going to be to get to those filters when the bumper is on?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
QUOTE (lacuna @ Jun 22 2009, 10:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1575711
So in total the fitment issues were fixed by some small pipe bending, and extention bolts for the alternator?[/b]
Pretty much. A small amount of subframe clearancing wasn't necessary, but I did it as a preventative measure.
QUOTE (lacuna @ Jun 22 2009, 10:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1575711
How hard is it going to be to get to those filters when the bumper is on?[/b]
As easy as pulling out the grill.
 
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