This guide is an addition, not replacement, to the original noob guide. This has been updated with more recent data:
*Note: I am leaving the guide in this format, without in-depth explanations because it is imperative for everyone to research and read on their own. There is too much knowledge to compile into any one guide, but feel free to ask questions once you have read and feel unsure on something.
In order to properly enjoy your Mazdaspeed6, you should first ensure all preventative maintenance is done. This is for increased reliability, but also for trouble-free life down the road.
Compression Test Before doing anything, you should perform a compression test; kits are available to rent for free from any auto parts store. This will tell you the "health" of your engine, and tells you there are no leaks. Below are the Factory Service Manual (FSM) instructions and acceptable ranges. The point of this test is that no reading is under 130psi, and that the variance between cylinders is not higher than 28psi.
*Note - continuously crank until the needle stops rising
Turbo and VVT/Timing Chain The turbo is prone to smoking, especially once you modify the exhaust components. Mazda has extended its warranty to 70k miles, details can be found at the following link: OFFICIAL Warranty Extension Program on turbo and VVT Actuator
The real "fix" is to swap the turbo out, all the other fixes are simply patching the issue.
Example:
Also, the VVT/timing chainwill fail on this engine, which Mazda also has extended its warranty on. The only place which should do this repair would be a Mazda dealership, or a very reputable shop.
The TSB document can be found in the above link, and further info below if you want to inspect it yourself (remember to search for even more info):
Now, with those items done, you should proceed to modify your car, if desired.
The first, and only mod, which is absolutely crucial to fully enjoying your MS6, is a COBB Accessport tuner. This device saves, then, replaces the stock ECU tune on your car, it is not a simple piggyback tuner. This device allows for customizing all values and controls on the car's ECU, if you wish to do a custom tune, but COBB also provides basic maps/flashes, for those just looking for an easy upgrade. The drivability and reliability of your car will vastly improve with this tuner. Even if you plan to stay stock, I highly recommend the tuner.
**The COBB AP is the only tuner which I recommend, all others are greatly inferior**
**For EU folks, Veratuner is the equivalent to the COBB AP**
You may purchase the AP new from many sources online, including eBay. Simply search for the product code "AP-MAZ-002" (this is the previous version, the main difference is the display on the "AP3-MAZ-002" AP, no tuning aspects are different), and purchase from a reputable vendor. A fair price is ~$275-$350 for a used V2 AP (mazdaspeedforums.com has a large classifieds section, you must pay for access). The V3 AP is ~$650 new. LINK TO OFFICIAL WEBSITE-COBB ACCESSPORT
When buying used you MUST ensure it is “unmarried” before buying. I advise you get a picture showing this, with the user's name/date/forum on a piece of paper along side, prior to buying. It will show:
The benefit of having the tuner as the first mod, is that it allows the car to be optimized for any future mods, so your car is always running at the top of its game. It also allows you to monitor the car, so you can be certain everything is in good shape.
COBB classifies their tunes in 3 stages: • Stage 0- A car without any mods, only a COBB tune
• Stage 1- A car with air intake and/or intercooler, and/or turbo inlet pipe upgrades
• Stage 2- A car with an upgraded CDFP (cam driven fuel pump), and either an upgraded downpipe (replaces both OEM catalytic converters), or a test pipe (replaces the first OEM catalytic converter)
Before going Stage 2,
You must replace the CDFP (cam driven fuel pump) internals to avoid the risk of fuel cut from the increased load on the engine system. Some have even experienced fuel cut on Stage 1, however, the only way to know you are okay is to data-log using the COBB AP and verify fuel pressure is above 1600 during WOT (wide open throttle) runs.
*Note: Our forum custom E-tuner is @TiGraySpeed6, he can vastly improve on the off-the-shelf COBB tunes, not only adding power, but also reliability.
Now, you may proceed to add additional modifications as desired.
*Note: You can mod the car without a tuning device, however, it is not recommended. The most you should mod this car without a tuning device would be the aforementioned stage 1 mods.
anybody have any feedback about the free ots tunes that stratified offers? im currently running one myself but seriously considering a custom tune after this next round of mods.
no I have a cobb SRI intake with the cobb maf air straightener and a huge aem dryflow airfilter, the strat tune not only made more power(didn't dyno it but my times at the track dropped and mph went higher) and KR and other problems went away. best free mod ive ever used and would recommend it to anyone.
heres a pic of my sri.. notice the old cobb logo on the maf housing that looks strangely like a mopar logo lol
I do agree that the ots stratified reduced driveability issues and kr. Only issue with it is it is locked. As long as you dont over boost, dont drop 1600 psi at WOT, or get kr I would just leave it.
So i just brought a new clutch kit LUK#10064 for my 06 mazdaspeed6 4cyl turbo, im just wondering if it can go with the stock flywheel if so i can just get it resurfaced. If not any suggestions?
I owned a Mazda 6 & fixed it up pretty nice but it was never a Mazdaspeed 6. I'm about to purchase one in the next few weeks and the owner said the only issue with it is that it has "an oil leak from fuel pump gasket or fuel pump cam cap" & that it would cost between "$200-$400" to fix. Any...
Ok so I have been having an issue with my Speed6 not wanting to start. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it wont. The crazy part about the the whole thing is when I jack the car up it starts fine. When I put it back on the ground it will start maybe 3 times straight , then I'm back to square...
Can someone please help me because this is driving me crazy. I'm not going to go to the dealership and pay crazy money to get this fixed and I can handle mostly anything you guys will throw at me.. I hope. So my clutch is sticking a few inches down every time I shift. I have to put my foot under...
