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my first try at night time photoshoot of a car subject, cam used was nikon d70s w/ nikkor 17-80mm DX lens.
main objective that night was to get decent star points from the headlights. btw all shots were handheld, no tripod involved...im trying to get ahold of a tripod asap...but still shopping 'round. open to any/all advices!






 

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they look pretty good, but look like they could get better with practice. i could never take a picture like that with my skills, though...so hats off to you. those are some pretty sweet effects, btw.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks guys, yea i could seriously need some photography classes and a tripod.

Cool pictures! But how to get those scattering effects? They look awesome.
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scattering? like...the star points from the lights or the light trails? well to get the star points, you set the f-stop small, like at 20 or 22, and compensate for exposure by slowing down the shutter speed to say, 3 seconds.

the light trails are formed by zooming in or out on the car as the camera is capturing the image, a rear curtain flash helps to solidify the car in the image or else it'd all be just a blur of lights.
 

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thanks guys, yea i could seriously need some photography classes and a tripod.
scattering? like...the star points from the lights or the light trails? well to get the star points, you set the f-stop small, like at 20 or 22, and compensate for exposure by slowing down the shutter speed to say, 3 seconds.

the light trails are formed by zooming in or out on the car as the camera is capturing the image, a rear curtain flash helps to solidify the car in the image or else it'd all be just a blur of lights.
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Or you could be lazy and photoshop it...
 

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my first try at night time photoshoot of a car subject, cam used was nikon d70s w/ nikkor 17-80mm DX lens.
main objective that night was to get decent star points from the headlights. btw all shots were handheld, no tripod involved...im trying to get ahold of a tripod asap...but still shopping 'round. open to any/all advices!

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You need to set the Apeture at F/8 or f/11 then adjust the shutter speed untill the exposure reads correct which should be somewhere around 3-6 seconds from the look of the darkness.


D70s is a great camera. I use the D50.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You need to set the Apeture at F/8 or f/11 then adjust the shutter speed untill the exposure reads correct which should be somewhere around 3-6 seconds from the look of the darkness.
D70s is a great camera. I use the D50.
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really? is f/8 or 11 the best aperature for getting those star points to shine like that? i couldnt really do above a 3 second exposure...didnt have a tripod at the time.
 

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really? is f/8 or 11 the best aperature for getting those star points to shine like that? i couldnt really do above a 3 second exposure...didnt have a tripod at the time.
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Well the 8 and 11 are really called "Who cares" aperatures. The biggest function of the aperature is depth of field. If you are shooting something that needs a large depth of field (Where it is in focus from up close to everything in the background being in focus. Here is an example of some poop I shot with the D50 lol The higher the aperature the smaller the shutter hole the smaller the aperature number the larger it's open...

THis first image was at the highest aperature setting. I beleive it was f/22 with the focal length I was using.



As you can see everything is in focus. from what is near the camera and the sand all the way to what is in the background (ignor ethe dirt specs I had some dust on the sensor.

This second picture was an F/stop of around f6 I beleive



( I also controlled the depth of field so that the turd was in focus)

As you can see. The front of the turd wher ethe sand is, is out of focus but enough to still see what is there. The background is out of focus. I controlled the focus by setting the depth of field so that the front and back was out of focus but the turd was in focus(i don't think the stock lens for the camera has the ring on it to set where the depth of field starts to infinity, but it can still be done) normaly everything up close would be in focus at a low aperature and the background would be out of focus. The who cares setting are for pictures where you don't care about, or there is no, depth of field such as night shots of the car....It's mainly about getting a correct exposure while at the same time getting a creative exposure. There are 6 correct exposure for every shot. it's about deciding which one will be the most creative looking by assessing what is happening in the image..






(The only editing done was done directly in camera by not on the computer at all)

Sorry if that was all confusing as hell. You should look at some of Brian Petersons books like "Understanding Exposure" and "Understanding Digital Photography" he puts how to take and use the features of our cameras in a proffesional way without making it complicated with all the photography lingo.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hey good deal, thanks, but alot of your photobucket pix were broken...like the turd ones. yea i've always thought aperature was strictly a light controller and depth of field, didnt know about the small aperature - all in focus deal, thats interesting. and you do the zoom in/out shots too...badass.
 

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Whoops. My bad. I changed the links on accident. It should work now. I would say the best bet for getting the starts on lights is using a FILTER. I can't remember what the name of the filter is.. maybe a neutral density filter or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well the 8 and 11 are really called "Who cares" aperatures. The biggest function of the aperature is depth of field. If you are shooting something that needs a large depth of field (Where it is in focus from up close to everything in the background being in focus. Here is an example of some poop I shot with the D50 lol The higher the aperature the smaller the shutter hole the smaller the aperature number the larger it's open...

THis first image was at the highest aperature setting. I beleive it was f/22 with the focal length I was using.


As you can see everything is in focus. from what is near the camera and the sand all the way to what is in the background (ignor ethe dirt specs I had some dust on the sensor.

This second picture was an F/stop of around f6 I beleive


( I also controlled the depth of field so that the turd was in focus)

As you can see. The front of the turd wher ethe sand is, is out of focus but enough to still see what is there. The background is out of focus. I controlled the focus by setting the depth of field so that the front and back was out of focus but the turd was in focus(i don't think the stock lens for the camera has the ring on it to set where the depth of field starts to infinity, but it can still be done) normaly everything up close would be in focus at a low aperature and the background would be out of focus. The who cares setting are for pictures where you don't care about, or there is no, depth of field such as night shots of the car....It's mainly about getting a correct exposure while at the same time getting a creative exposure. There are 6 correct exposure for every shot. it's about deciding which one will be the most creative looking by assessing what is happening in the image..

(The only editing done was done directly in camera by not on the computer at all)

Sorry if that was all confusing as hell. You should look at some of Brian Petersons books like "Understanding Exposure" and "Understanding Digital Photography" he puts how to take and use the features of our cameras in a proffesional way without making it complicated with all the photography lingo.
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dude those shots are off the hook, balls to the wall, fantastic. haha the poop shots are interesting subjects, but that dust on the sensor, i'd seriously get it looked at and cleaned, but maybe it'll turn to out be just dust between the lens and the lens filter.
oh that lens filter for the star points you're thinking of is the cross-section filter i believe...B+W makes one, dramatic effects but imo a lil overkill.
and that one shot that looks like you did a double exposure image overlay on, omg how? cuz only the nikon d2x has that built in function for image overlay...you're using the d50! i bet you just took a shot, ran around the car and kept the sensor open exposing along the way, and used a rear curtain flash...am i right? haha.
 

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I put the setting on bulb used the remote to hold the shutter open. let it open on teh front side fo a few seconds then put my hand over the lense to cover it up. Then ran to the back and set up and removed my hand when I was ready....

As for the dust. Thats the BIG BIG downfall to digital cameras. NO MATTER what you will get dust on teh sensor ..it's easy to rid the spots with Photoshop. but i don't have a computer other then the one here at work to do that. So I just got a air brush. As opposed to paying to have it cleaned. I just click the shutter to open the mirror and puff some hair in there to get the dust off and back to new....

You can get an airbrush for like $10 at any camera shop usually. but you already knwo that I am sure lol
 

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Discussion Starter #19
oh man, that sucks to have dust on the sensor...but i thought it wasnt safe to use the air duster on the sensor, cuz of the chemical (polyethyldiflorine or something) used for air dusters and the fragile mount of the sensor and mirror...eh but that's a pretty cool method man, hahaha covering up the lens.
 

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oh man, that sucks to have dust on the sensor...but i thought it wasnt safe to use the air duster on the sensor, cuz of the chemical (polyethyldiflorine or something) used for air dusters and the fragile mount of the sensor and mirror...eh but that's a pretty cool method man, hahaha covering up the lens.
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Yeah don't used canned air. the airbrush are just a little thing you squeez and air puffs out of it....you CAN use canned air just make sure NEVER EVER EVER to shake the can so that the liquid comes out or your sensor is dead. so i don't recommend taking the chance.
 
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