Next step after CAI
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1,982 Posts
I think he means, the actual stock grille. There is a sport grille and then there is a stock grille.
Sport Grille
[attachmentid=16599]
Stock Grille on 6 with chrome
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I think the CP-E engine mount is only for V6ers, please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Your next best mod for your i4 would be tranny upgrade. For 50bucks, your shifts will be much smoother and the life on your tranny will be much better. At idle the temp on an ATX tranny is 188degress F, imagine what it's like when your driving!
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i'd say an oil cooler for the tranny would be a good upgrade, which you will actually feel a tad as well if you do a lot of driving. outside of that, it depends on how "into it" you wanna go. i'd say the next thing that will be the cheapest and give the most gain is having a shop make a new mid pipe (pipe between the header and the beginning of the "catback") should net more hp than any other mod at this point and would be pretty cheap. then there's the kit that removes the balance shaft if you don't mind some added vibration, which is only like $30-50, but taking parts out of your engine is a bit sketchy for many, helps down low on the atx. for engine mount, only option that is confirmed for the 4banger is the mount from VF Engineering.
The cpe engine mount is for the 3.0 and the Speed6 only.
http://www.cp-e.com/scan/fi=products/st=db...on/to=x%5D.html
http://www.cp-e.com/scan/fi=products/st=db...on/to=x%5D.html
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1,618 Posts
If you haven't optimized your TB, your not getting the full potential of your intake or exhaust upgrades. If you've got some machinist skills this is a free mod. (See link in sig.) Bolt on TBs are also available with core exchanges for reasonable prices. (http://cordovamotorsports.com/mazda_products.html)
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Boring the TB requires a new plate and much more labor than optimiztion. On the 2.3L, the TB can be safely bored to about 62.5mm, after that part of the TB walls will be ground away. From my experience, a 62mm bored TB only provided slight gains over optimization. (Probably not worth the cost...) Going larger than 62.5mm requires that a 'patch' be fabricated into the TB bore like this:
Basic optimization is a very safe and economical way to improve the intake with zero driveability issues. I'm currently bored for a 64mm butterfly (+ optimized) which is awesome, but a lot of work to make 99% driveable.
Note patched section at the bottom shaft hole.
Only when your pushing it hard. Standard cruising highway MPG is unaffected as far as I can tell.
http://cordovamotorsports.com/services.html
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1,105 Posts
just happend to be reading this and was going to recommend this also.
i have the 3.0 V6 manual and I plan on getting the cpe engine mount. Is there any hp/torque gained from this? i think i may have read that gains some lost torque. Just want to officially know.
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88 Posts
I can't figure out why people want to add power to the 2.3L. To me it makes no sense because for a comparable amount of money you could have bought the 3.0L and had a much quicker car. I'm not going to lie though, if I wasn't curious about a few power upgrades for my 6i I wouldn't be reading this thread.
I just bought my 6i a few months back and i regret getting the 2.3L instead of th 3.0L mostly because pretty much every car i see is way faster then mine. Maybe in a couple years i will trade up for a 3.0L but until then i just have to deal with my stock 6i and how incredibly slow it is.
I just bought my 6i a few months back and i regret getting the 2.3L instead of th 3.0L mostly because pretty much every car i see is way faster then mine. Maybe in a couple years i will trade up for a 3.0L but until then i just have to deal with my stock 6i and how incredibly slow it is.
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