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Just wondering what would be next logical mod after the CAI?
I have the ATX, stock dual exhaust, and light weight wheels.
 

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CPE engine mount. Much faster off of the line.

actually, idk you have a 2.3L, but i know for us v6 guys CPE engine mount is a huge gain. IM pretty sure the engine mount works all of he way around.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
CPE engine mount. Much faster off of the line.

actually, idk you have a 2.3L, but i know for us v6 guys CPE engine mount is a huge gain. IM pretty sure the engine mount works all of he way around.
[/b]

Since I'm a novice, can you elaborate on what the CPE is and how it works?
What would be a rough idea of price?
Also the Chrome on the front grill in your picture, is that stock or can you get it
as an accessory?
 

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Since I'm a novice, can you elaborate on what the CPE is and how it works?
What would be a rough idea of price?
Also the Chrome on the front grill in your picture, is that stock or can you get it
as an accessory?
[/b]
+1
\ :drool:
 

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what chrome front grille? theres a mazda symbol there but what are you seeing?
[/b]
I think he means, the actual stock grille. There is a sport grille and then there is a stock grille.


Sport Grille

[attachmentid=16599]

Stock Grille on 6 with chrome

[attachmentid=16598]
I think the CP-E engine mount is only for V6ers, please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Your next best mod for your i4 would be tranny upgrade. For 50bucks, your shifts will be much smoother and the life on your tranny will be much better. At idle the temp on an ATX tranny is 188degress F, imagine what it's like when your driving!
 

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i'd say an oil cooler for the tranny would be a good upgrade, which you will actually feel a tad as well if you do a lot of driving. outside of that, it depends on how "into it" you wanna go. i'd say the next thing that will be the cheapest and give the most gain is having a shop make a new mid pipe (pipe between the header and the beginning of the "catback") should net more hp than any other mod at this point and would be pretty cheap. then there's the kit that removes the balance shaft if you don't mind some added vibration, which is only like $30-50, but taking parts out of your engine is a bit sketchy for many, helps down low on the atx. for engine mount, only option that is confirmed for the 4banger is the mount from VF Engineering.
 

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If you haven't optimized your TB, your not getting the full potential of your intake or exhaust upgrades. If you've got some machinist skills this is a free mod. (See link in sig.) Bolt on TBs are also available with core exchanges for reasonable prices. (http://cordovamotorsports.com/mazda_products.html)
 

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If you haven't optimized your TB, your not getting the full potential of your intake or exhaust upgrades. If you've got some machinist skills this is a free mod. (See link in sig.) Bolt on TBs are also available with core exchanges for reasonable prices. (http://cordovamotorsports.com/mazda_products.html)
[/b]
I'm still planning on sending mine out to you this x-mas break.
 

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What about boring the throttle body?

http://www.maxbore.com/

Would that be worth the price?
[/b]
Boring the TB requires a new plate and much more labor than optimiztion. On the 2.3L, the TB can be safely bored to about 62.5mm, after that part of the TB walls will be ground away. From my experience, a 62mm bored TB only provided slight gains over optimization. (Probably not worth the cost...) Going larger than 62.5mm requires that a 'patch' be fabricated into the TB bore like this:


Basic optimization is a very safe and economical way to improve the intake with zero driveability issues. I'm currently bored for a 64mm butterfly (+ optimized) which is awesome, but a lot of work to make 99% driveable.

Note patched section at the bottom shaft hole.

does the bored out throttle body adversely affect MPG?[/b]
Only when your pushing it hard. Standard cruising highway MPG is unaffected as far as I can tell.

http://cordovamotorsports.com/services.html
 

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just happend to be reading this and was going to recommend this also.
CPE engine mount. Much faster off of the line.[/b]
i have the 3.0 V6 manual and I plan on getting the cpe engine mount. Is there any hp/torque gained from this? i think i may have read that gains some lost torque. Just want to officially know.
 

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I think u guys scared scifikiller
 

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i'd say an oil cooler for the tranny would be a good upgrade, which you will actually feel a tad as well if you do a lot of driving. outside of that, it depends on how "into it" you wanna go. i'd say the next thing that will be the cheapest and give the most gain is having a shop make a new mid pipe (pipe between the header and the beginning of the "catback") should net more hp than any other mod at this point and would be pretty cheap. then there's the kit that removes the balance shaft if you don't mind some added vibration, which is only like $30-50, but taking parts out of your engine is a bit sketchy for many, helps down low on the atx. for engine mount, only option that is confirmed for the 4banger is the mount from VF Engineering.
[/b]


WHERE COULD I FIND AN OIL COOLER FOR THE TRANNY????? AND HOW MUCH??? AND ALSO PLEASE ELABORATE WHAT THE ENGINE MOUNT IS???? AND WHERE I CAN FIND IT?? I C U SAY VF ENGINEERING HAS IT. THAT THE WEBSITE?
 

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2 rainmens
Never write in CAPS LOCK
Or nobody will help you...
 

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I can't figure out why people want to add power to the 2.3L. To me it makes no sense because for a comparable amount of money you could have bought the 3.0L and had a much quicker car. I'm not going to lie though, if I wasn't curious about a few power upgrades for my 6i I wouldn't be reading this thread.

I just bought my 6i a few months back and i regret getting the 2.3L instead of th 3.0L mostly because pretty much every car i see is way faster then mine. Maybe in a couple years i will trade up for a 3.0L but until then i just have to deal with my stock 6i and how incredibly slow it is.
 

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Well, for one, if you like cars and like working on them, you're always looking for power. Regardless of what you bought. :D
 
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