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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I'm a newby here w/1st post. . . Picked up an 06 GS HB with 74,000 on it as a third owner from a stealership. I have a couple of issues which span different areas but this one is the only mystery.

When warm and parked or moving in 1st gear (5mph or less) it has rhythmic tick, that can be heard if applying the throttle ever so slightly. Even a slight power brake and not moving so its not in the final drive and not as fast as engine speed. With much speed the road noise will quickly overcome the noise.

This thread is near identical but i have yet to use a hearing aid /stick / stethoscope to pinpoint its location. http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/202096-ticking-noise.html but maybe this is it??? IDK!

VIN has it 06/06 manf date if that helps.
Among other things I need to find would be service manuals for all applicable sections too engine, trans, electrical, etc. I never taken a car in to have recall items checked so this may be a first if it ends up being that valve in the link provided. Do I just go a Mazda dealer and ask, or how does that work?
Thanks in advance. . .
 

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100% CANUCK
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Welcome to the club!!

Every V6 I have seen has a tick to it. Mine ticks and after a bit of research I realized these engines just have a tick.

As far as a service manual, I only know of the one up on 6crew which you can download. It is not a complete tear down & rebuild manual though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK - a couple more days of driving. . . first off, its a pretty likable car to drive when warm, but it's a tad hesitant/surgy feeling when cold and taking off the first couple of miles. I have NO idea how old the plugs are or what shape they're in or any of that. On the agenda are to pull the front 3 plugs and depending on their shape, replace all 6, clean the EGR track and well I am REAL curious about the condition of the Pre-Cats. Do 2006's have them self destructing??

Anyway, that tick i mention up there is not so much a tick at all.
Example: fuel injectors tick. Bucket style tappets make a tap sound when the lash is excessive. Rod's knock when clearances exceed spec. So this noise is NOT like them but is closer to some form a knock but IS NOT a Rod knock. I really need to find it and figure out what it is. PS - the rods don't rattle when hot or cold started after sitting.

And yes, after reading about a bunch of wasted engines from Pre-cat failures I'm at tad nervous. . .
 

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The pre-cat failure has been pretty well contained to the 03-05 models. The 06-08 had a redesigned exhaust system. I was also very worried about cat failure when I was a newbie reading that stuff. When doing your plugs be sure to replace your PCV valve while you're under the hood.

Mine also has the same slight hesitation & surge feeling when cold. Our engines HATE being cold. I always start mine & let it run for 5 mins or so before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There sure are allot of dead links and redirects from server to server. I found other threads on the noise and that is re-assuring that its not a hard part but more of noise on the right surface can reflect and make it pretty loud. Again as best I can tell it doesn't do it cold, and it doesn't track with RPM, its not half crank speed like a cam so it must be something else. H%ll I thought it was the torque converter at first. :(

The little things:
I had to reprogram the passenger window so it worked from the drivers side and make a choice about keeping these wheels or rolling the fenders. You know what the stock wheel offset is on the Sport Touring models? 18" 225/45 is stock but these wheels are 45mm offset and 8" wide. They hit in the rear.

So they're a dog when cold? Does 92 oct fuel change it all? Any recommended OBDII scanners as I need a new one so I'm open to hearing of what offers the most bang per buck.
 

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About the tick, mine & every other one I have seen has the tick in sync with RPM's. Mine is the quietest of all that I have heard. The cam rollers & injectors are causes I suspect most. You on the other hand must have something different.

Stock offset is around +50 IIRC

Putting higher octane in will help in no way, shape or form. Our cars prefer 87 and anything more is a waste of $
 

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Is the tick you hear from about the 700-1000 rpm range? You could have the ol' Purge valve solenoid problem that the '06-'07s' have been known for. There was a TSB issued for that a while back. My '07 has the tick, I've never bothered to fix it, as I hear it's a pricey part. It also is a PITA to get to. I've never heard if it causes any problems if you leave it alone, so don't know bout long term issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What is the noise on yours? Valve train/cam(s) or something else? You say its engine speed, as in crank speed or cam speed? Cam being half the speed of the crank. Does it do upon cold start after RPM's drop to normal idle but before full operating temp? Mine does not and is only present under light load.

I'll have time Wed and maybe a bit tonight to look it over. I'll see if I can pin point it. Its sounds like that purge valve is mounted on the firewall/cowl. Is that correct? And it looks like a pair of small solenoids w/maybe 2 wires to each??
 

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Just saw this post. Throwing out another thought:

I've heard the same ticking/knocking/rattling noise coming from an exhaust that has come loose. The exhaust can come loose ever so slightly and when you hit a certain resonance you'll here it rattling around. At first you might think it's coming from the engine, but have a friend stand outside the car while you recreate the noise.
 

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Mine may be the purge valve solenoid but I doubt it as its relative to engine speed. Mine is there all the time but is more noticeable on cold starts. Like I said I have heard the same tick in other V6's but louder. Not exactly sure where its coming from but I suspect its rolloers/lifters making my slight tick. I have grown accustom to it being there & my car runs great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Using a 24" screw driver to the ear the Noise has indeed been isolated to the solenoid valve on the firewall/cowling area. It's on the passenger side kinda hidden behind the shock tower. If left to idle too long it quit so I took it for a spin and sure enough that's it.

Mystery #1 solved! Thank you!
And yes, under the hood one bank has a pretty loud tappet click. Forgive me on this but I have no manual as this writing so front and rear bank; how are they numbered?
Is it 1 3 5 from passenger side cowling; then 2 4 6 from passenger side (right side) head light??

Also the injectors are WAY loud and they thump! Never Heard such loud injectors except on a diesel rig. I have a loaner OBDII scanner. Time to grab some info and see what she gives up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
FWIW: AutoTap 3.0 and 3.1 software do not do well with the 06. It crashed many times and failed to show a fraction of the data available from the OBDII port. Some forum reading is required and likely a new scanner. . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Took the car back to the stealership I bought it from and and asked them to replace the valve. It has 6mo 6000 mile mechanical warranty but the service manager agreed to replace the valve this Sat.

So, what to do with this: It has the "As-Is" warranty but the rear tires are getting cut by the fender. The car is fitted and skinned w/18 X 8 +45 & 225/40/18's. Do I force them to pay up and swap the tires to something else or roll the fender myself (on my dime). It has brand new tires on it. Thoughts?
 

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Just some food for thought. I have a 2004 6s wagon that had a very loud tick almost exactly as you described. I changed my manifolds for a set of MSDS headers and y pipe and the sound is totally gone now. Maybe has something to do with the cats failing in the manifolds.
 
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That may have been part of your issue yes but likely isnt the case with him. Like I posted before, every V6 I have ever seen/heard has a tick and most of them sound different from each other but the same, if that makes any sence.

So you are saying that yours doesnt tick at all anymore Canadian6?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Using a 24" screw driver to the ear the Noise has indeed been isolated to the solenoid valve on the firewall/cowling area. It's on the passenger side kinda hidden behind the shock tower. If left to idle too long it quit so I took it for a spin and sure enough that's it.

Mystery #1 solved! Thank you!
And yes, under the hood one bank has a pretty loud tappet click. Forgive me on this but I have no manual as this writing so front and rear bank; how are they numbered?
Is it 1 3 5 from passenger side cowling; then 2 4 6 from passenger side (right side) head light??

Also the injectors are WAY loud and they thump! Never Heard such loud injectors except on a diesel rig. I have a loaner OBDII scanner. Time to grab some info and see what she gives up.
^^ blah blah

Had to post in the Newby thread as per the rules and got distracted. . .
I handed the service manager the purge valve invoice and told him his buddy from the Mazda dealer said it needed it. Funny is the service manager at Subaru used to run the Mazda service center.
-> Anyway, the noise in the cabin is gone now.
Replaced purge valve; PN: L3P9-18-740B VALVE, SOLE.

But, yes, it does have valve noise under the hood on the bank nearer the cowling near the passenger side.

In my case: it had to warm for aprox 10 min and have a light load applied and the noise was present. If you turn the car off and back on within 5min, noise would be gone. Until I got a positive I.D. on it, i was a tad gun shy about it as I never heard it on the 2 test drives.
 

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That may have been part of your issue yes but likely isnt the case with him. Like I posted before, every V6 I have ever seen/heard has a tick and most of them sound different from each other but the same, if that makes any sence.

So you are saying that yours doesnt tick at all anymore Canadian6?
Just noticed this now. And thats correct I can't hear any kind of tick anymore, before under load I sounded like a lawn mower lol.
 
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