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Looking to replace my commuter with a 14 or 16 M6 manual, I have a few local cars Im testing this weekend.

Any feedback on the manual transmissions on M6 with about 30-50K on them? Want a reliable car with some fun factor not a headache, Thx.
 

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I'm running a 15' 6spd Touring.
Transmission is smooth & the throws are a tag long but I fixed that with the shifter adapter plate kit & replaced the OEM shift knob with a Sparco one. Love it!
Down side to the manuals are the heavy DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) which hurts it's acceleration a bit. Overall car drives good & gas mileage is good as long as your shift are below 3K from my experience.
 
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I'm afraid i only have 1,000 miles on my '17... but i find that shifts into both 2nd and 1st are fussy. All other gears are really nice. I am attempting to get some time to systematically go through some steps to improve this... and i think i can. PM me if u want more info. It is said that these cars need about 10,000 miles on them to achieve full 6MT breakin.

A couple of other comments.... You want the car as a commuter, and accordingly would want decent economy... great on that account. But as a commuter, I find that the car has almost too-closely-spaced gear ratios. Lotsa shifting. Sometimes it behooves you to skip a gear, too. I find that first gear, for my taste, is a bit too low of a gear ratio, and I would almost want 6th gear to be taller. So what I mean, here, is that when the light changes, and to keep up with traffic, well, it's 'kinda more effort than I would want... First gear does not go down the road very far before you have to shift. Of course performance would be further blunted if first were a bit taller... but the time you lose in shifting, or having to shift - compensates. I guess, actually, I tend to like tallers first gears. Opposing benefit, though, is that a low first gear is really, really easy on the clutch... You will likely get really long clutch life expectancy. Not using hardly any accelerator, getting underway, the clutch can be fully let-out at a walking speed, lol.

Power (or I should say torque) in the lowest gears is not in an over-abundance situation.... in other words, it could use more "umph" down low. This car responds well to being "tuned" / chipped... Orange Virus Tuning is a set-up, that can be optimized to whatever grade of fuel you want, to good advantage. Some folks here have set it up to optimize the lowest rpm ranges to benefit the in-city performance, and its ease as a commuter. I will do this, once I get enough breakin miles to be able to go through the optimization regime that OVT requires.

The Direct Injected fuel injection, in multiple cold-start situations, low run miles per startup, can throw fuel into the oil... i.e. fuel dilution. Monitoring of the oil level (for increases), monitoring of the degradation of the viscosity as miles pile up... and learning how the engine oil gets stressed has merit, with a view to figuring out how frequently to change the oil. Long oil change durations may not have merit with some Direct Injected cars. Oh, there is some evidence in general with Direct Injected cars, that running a higher grade of fuel than the spec'd 87 level octane will result in less fuel dilution of the oil. The PCM sometimes richens the mixture to avert pinging as opposed to triming back on the ignition advance... so higher octane fuel would lessen this tendency. The economics of higher octane fuel, though, is dodgy... so that is the personal dilemma a person faces.

This car does not appear to exhibit intake valve carboning-up tendencies that become debilitating... like some VWAG cars do, or maybe direct injected BMW's do. Access to the intake manifold (for manifold removal) for "de-coking" the valves, should this occur (and walnut shell blast treatment or dosing with CRC intake cleaner) is very good. When I bought, this was one of my considerations.

Paint is very, very thin, and there is a considerable propensity for rock-chips. Others will chime in with more experience than me, though. Sheet metal, I find, say for the rocker panels, is really light-duty, thin. Many, though, have not remarked specifically about this. In heavily salted areas, Mazda's may not be as resistant to rust as other cars... and this may be a consideration... but others will perhaps chime-in on this... others with more experience. I would say that you really do have to attend to rock chips, touching them up routinely, to avert surface rust. I would say this, particularly in the lower areas, rocker panels of the car.

I like my Mazda6. It was a lot of car for the $... and I bought new. The drive is definitely sport-oriented, the electric power steering has almost none of the typical "feel" issues with EPS... I can hardly tell it is EPS. In some ways I actually like my '99 Camry L4, 5MT better... (as I think it is more durably built - though this may only be my impression without running the Mazda for many miles yet) but my Camry is getting tired and uneconomic to fix up... (I needed a new car). I look forward to working with the minor issues (for me) that exist for my car... and growing to really love it :). For me, familiarity does not breed contempt... but rather "Love".... lol.
 

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Gear Ratio wise I feel this car has pretty long gearing. My previous cars (Genesis Coupe, 350Z, Civic Si) all had very short gearing especially the Genesis coupe.
1st Gear is somewhat short but at 30-35 mph you can leave it in 2nd gear just fine.
 
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I've got a 2016 M6 with a manual (touring trim). It's got 75K miles, all of them mine. So far it's been a rock-solid car. No issues at all, other than a recall related to the occupant sensor in the passenger seat.

I'd say Cdn17Sport6MT is spot-on with his write-up. Gear spacing took some time to get used to, and there are a few shifts (1-2 and 5-6) where you're shifting pretty quickly, or can skip 5th entirely. I think I've read complaints about thin paint on every car I've owned, and this is probably no exception. Although with the heavy highway driving I do on bad Midwest roads, it's got no more chips than I'd expect. I'm hoping that rust resistance is better on the third gen than it (supposedly) was on previous version.

It was my first manual in a while, and with the dual-mass flywheel and electronic throttle, it took some practice to smooth out rev-matching. Again, after a few weeks it was no big deal.

It's not the fastest car on the market, but that's not the most important factor for me. I've driven just about everything else in the segment, and the M6 steering/suspension feels by far the best to me. The cockpit isn't the most technologically-advanced, but it has nearly all the bells and whistles I wanted, and everything is clean and ergonomic. They've done a great job making a drivers car -- it doesn't feel distracting or confusing (looking at you, Honda and Ford). I'm not a big guy, and I find the seats are perfect. Someone wider might find the bolstering uncomfortable, but I can't speak to that.

It's definitely a safe, roomy, reliable commuter that will still make you smile on the right road. Mazda puts the 2.5L Skyactiv-G into a lot of cars (I believe the 3, 6, and CX5), so I'm assuming it's well-tested, will have plenty of parts, and mechanics will be familiar with it.

The one occasional annoyance is a sticky/crunchy shift into first from neutral. I only notice it at stoplights, maybe once a week. Usually I can pull it down into second and then back up to first without an issue, but sometimes I really have to jam it into first. Changing transmission fluid (for the second time) next week, so I'll see if that helps.
 

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Hunter 186 - try the following TSB... which applies, generally, to all C66M-R transaxles, be they in a CX5, M6, or an M3. Reason they did not target the first two cars with this TSB, is 'cause largely they had solved the production issue with the Mazda3... then adopted it for the CX5's and M6's production that was afterwards.... But some CX5's and M6's could be afllicted anyways.

Note that the linkage elements, between the M3 versus the M6, are mirror images of one another... (does not affect the instructions). Heads-up, if you are wondering...

May take one or two posts to put up all of the pictures...

The third graphic, below... the really small one: in the Search tool for this Forum, search for the "Crunchy" title... and then view posts 1 and 56 (and the rest, if you like) - but those two posts are the most important...
 

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Two more graphics.

BTW, if you want any help with trim removal, say, for the '16 model year, I can find you the guidance graphics on trim removal...

Cheers from Vancouver
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the Info. Test drove the 16 last Fri, liked the car very much, it has over 53K on for a 2 yr old, warranty is done so thats a concern, not use to buying used cars but the manual has been sitting for awhile and has a great price on it. Have to look at some Accord, Camry options as well, car will be our 3rd in family so college kid will be driving as well, unsure i getting something this new and sporting helps that case...lol.
 

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Got a 17 Mazda 6 with a swizzle stick. No issues; 15K. One of the things about sticks is that the points of vulnerability are fewer so I look forward to a long life and, if failure occurs—cheaper repairs.
 

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Looking to replace my commuter with a 14 or 16 M6 manual, I have a few local cars Im testing this weekend.

Any feedback on the manual transmissions on M6 with about 30-50K on them? Want a reliable car with some fun factor not a headache, Thx.
Brother you probably wont find a more reliable MTX in a new car that is truly a MTX these days. About the only thing that assists the driver is when you are at a hill the car's brakes will be engaged for about 5 seconds to help you get the pedals down.

I have 85k miles (all mine) and honestly the only problem I have had, had it ever since the car was bought, is that sometimes I can't shift into first even when the clutch is fully engaged. This is a known problem by some MTX owners but isn't epidemic and of course can't be reproduced at the dealership. The solution is simply to disengage the clutch and re-engage. One thing I highly suggest is changing the MTX fluid with Red Line stuff, a lot of our cars had the bare minimum of fluid for the transmission. The Red line product made the shifts smoother and I put a weighted sifter for ever smoother throws.
 

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I have 85k miles (all mine) and honestly the only problem I have had, had it ever since the car was bought, is that sometimes I can't shift into first even when the clutch is fully engaged. This is a known problem by some MTX owners but isn't epidemic and of course can't be reproduced at the dealership. The solution is simply to disengage the clutch and re-engage.
I mentioned the same issue earlier in this thread, and Cdn17Sport6MT posted a TSB for the 3 that should also apply to these vehicles. Looks to be a shift linkage thing, and appears to be an easy fix.
 

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I mentioned the same issue earlier in this thread, and Cdn17Sport6MT posted a TSB for the 3 that should also apply to these vehicles. Looks to be a shift linkage thing, and appears to be an easy fix.
You got a link for that brother? And when you say an easy fix are you saying easy for a high speed mechanic or something a home garage tech can tackle...yes I have access to a lift and every tool known to man.
 

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I have a 2014 Mazda 6 and just rolled over 70,000 miles. Never had any problems. I've driven over 25,000 miles this year and commuted more than 100 miles per day. Also driven in SF at least once per week for 3 years.

Manual is just as crisp as it was when it rolled off.

AMA!
 
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