Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First time posting here, yadda yadda :p

Just bought a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport with 178k miles, I've put another thousand on it so far myself. Is that a new record? lol

Only one previous owner, apparently she had a 90 mile commute, pretty much all highway. No accidents or any major unscheduled work done on it. Runs great, no issues as far as I can tell. Still looks pretty nice too. She didn't have any of the recalls done (rear parking brake, TMPS, and the door sash molding) so I'll be taking it to the dealership this week to get those done.

Previous owner didn't really have a detailed service record, but I think she had been taking it to a quick lube sorta place for oil changes, tire rotations, etc. She told me they had been using some kinda high mileage oil, hopefully at least the right viscosity lol. I don't buy that stuff, and I'll be doing my own oil changes, so I'll probably just switch back to regular 0W-20 like the manual says.

So, given the high mileage and lack of a detailed service record, anything I should keep an eye or an ear out for? Any maintenance / fluid change I should go ahead with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,069 Posts
Some says that you should change the transmission oil while others say it's lifetime. Perhaps you should decide on this matter what is best according to your judgement.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,069 Posts
Welcome to the forum!

Sorry to tell ya, but there's a few of us in that range - @tickerguy is well into the 200k range now and has had absolutely nothing wrong so far beyond routine maintenance. Both his car and my own (170k) have been absolutely stellar. I'm just now putting my 3rd round of brakes on the fronts and the back struts are ready to be replaced. Other than that, we have had nothing but good things to say.

Like Archer said - Transmission oil should probably be checked, but if you got the ATX then you have to drop the pan.

Also, check your caliper pins. Most cars have terrible lubrication on their pins and are prone to (eventual) sticking, resulting in terrible brake wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,004 Posts
Yeah, I'd definitely check the brakes. But if the pads are ok and not wearing unevenly leave it alone until they wear out.

If it's an ATX (I presume it is) DO have the fluid and filter changed. DO NOT allow any of the quick-lube places (or anywhere else) to use a "flushing machine"; the pan has to come off and the filter be changed. I would get the heebies bigtime with an ATX and OE fluid at that mileage; I consider both it and the MTX to be "every 50k" maintenance.

I would probably also flush and refill the coolant (FL-22); it's about time on time; mileage is less important IMHO.

These cars are remarkably trouble-free in terms of "routine" trouble spots, which is darn nice!

Note that if the stealer sees it they WILL update the TPMS whether you tell them not to or not. And by the way, you may find it gets annoying during temperature changes as it will alert on you during such an event even though nothing is wrong. Unfortunately this one is a government-mandated thing and the stealers are required to do it if they plug the car in and find old firmware in the TPMS system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
898 Posts
Seems to me that at that high a mileage, particularly, you should really pay attention to oil level (increases) and oil smell (for fuel)... to quickly catch any fuel injector prbs. Also, DO often listen closely for any changes in engine (timing chain) noises.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ah, thanks for the replies! I'll definitely check out the ATF and brakes.

Note that if the stealer sees it they WILL update the TPMS whether you tell them not to or not. And by the way, you may find it gets annoying during temperature changes as it will alert on you during such an event even though nothing is wrong. Unfortunately this one is a government-mandated thing and the stealers are required to do it if they plug the car in and find old firmware in the TPMS system.
Is the TPMS update that bad? I'm getting all the other recalls done so it's probably unavoidable though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
First time posting here, yadda yadda :p

Just bought a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport with 178k miles, I've put another thousand on it so far myself. Is that a new record? lol

Only one previous owner, apparently she had a 90 mile commute, pretty much all highway. No accidents or any major unscheduled work done on it. Runs great, no issues as far as I can tell. Still looks pretty nice too. She didn't have any of the recalls done (rear parking brake, TMPS, and the door sash molding) so I'll be taking it to the dealership this week to get those done.

Previous owner didn't really have a detailed service record, but I think she had been taking it to a quick lube sorta place for oil changes, tire rotations, etc. She told me they had been using some kinda high mileage oil, hopefully at least the right viscosity lol. I don't buy that stuff, and I'll be doing my own oil changes, so I'll probably just switch back to regular 0W-20 like the manual says.

So, given the high mileage and lack of a detailed service record, anything I should keep an eye or an ear out for? Any maintenance / fluid change I should go ahead with?
2014 GT with 127k miles here, I've had a couple of issues, some of which just because my father neglected this thing on long commutes daily. I've encountered some shaking from my front brake calipers, so eventually you might have to do those if they have a bunch of miles. I have this weird thing where my car wont shut off all the way too, I have to flick it back into park then press the button twice, I think I read somewhere that this is a shifter issue caused by a o-ring or something. I'm not sure if the parking brake recall was for the cable or the mechanism, but recently I had my driver's side parking brake mechanism seize up, so that seems to be something that could cause issues eventually im sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,004 Posts
Ah, thanks for the replies! I'll definitely check out the ATF and brakes.

Is the TPMS update that bad? I'm getting all the other recalls done so it's probably unavoidable though.
It's just annoying.

Basically the update will alert on ANY change, even if ALL FOUR WHEELS change at once. What are the odds you picked up FOUR nails at one time? Uh huh. Ok, now what happens if the outside temperature goes from 70F to 30F? Uh huh.

Pisses me off, but it is what it is, and what was formerly a system that ONLY alerted (truthfully) when I had a nail in a tire has now alerted a couple of times for nothing, because temperature change. Can I shoot the people in the government who mandated this crap?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,069 Posts
It's just annoying.

Basically the update will alert on ANY change, even if ALL FOUR WHEELS change at once. What are the odds you picked up FOUR nails at one time? Uh huh. Ok, now what happens if the outside temperature goes from 70F to 30F? Uh huh.

Pisses me off, but it is what it is, and what was formerly a system that ONLY alerted (truthfully) when I had a nail in a tire has now alerted a couple of times for nothing, because temperature change. Can I shoot the people in the government who mandated this crap?
Exactly.

We've been having a very moderate January here and temperatures go from 55 to 20 overnight, then back to 50 the next day. Of course all of my tires are going to drastically change pressure - sure enough, the stupid light comes on and I have to decide if it's crying wolf or I should get out and check everything, again.

Also ticker - something something government intervention, something something I'll leave politics out of this since I know your stance (and agree with you) lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Yeah, I'd definitely check the brakes. But if the pads are ok and not wearing unevenly leave it alone until they wear out.

If it's an ATX (I presume it is) DO have the fluid and filter changed. DO NOT allow any of the quick-lube places (or anywhere else) to use a "flushing machine"; the pan has to come off and the filter be changed. I would get the heebies bigtime with an ATX and OE fluid at that mileage; I consider both it and the MTX to be "every 50k" maintenance.

I would probably also flush and refill the coolant (FL-22); it's about time on time; mileage is less important IMHO.

These cars are remarkably trouble-free in terms of "routine" trouble spots, which is darn nice!

Note that if the stealer sees it they WILL update the TPMS whether you tell them not to or not. And by the way, you may find it gets annoying during temperature changes as it will alert on you during such an event even though nothing is wrong. Unfortunately this one is a government-mandated thing and the stealers are required to do it if they plug the car in and find old firmware in the TPMS system.
Sorry about the off, but do you know the part numbers for the necessary part for the ATX oil change?

I've done a normal fluid replacement without dropping the pan, and planning to do another soon, and after that I'd like to change the filter also.

The sealant should be TB1217E, but I don't know what kind of oil strainer and bolts (with O-rings) should I buy.

Edit: is this a valid procedure for 2016 Mazda6 (2.5L)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,004 Posts
There's no reason to remove the valve body for a routine fluid change and I would NOT do so.

Get the filter and O-rings from the stealer, and the fluid is the specific Mazda FZ stuff. DO NOT USE third-party ATFs; Mazda is very specific on this and while you might get away with it ATXs are expensive, and if you don't get away with it you'll be buying one. Note that there is a specific procedure for the refill to get the level right -- follow it. There are a few Youslob videos around of people doing ATX fluid changes (at least one I've seen is on the CX-5, but it's the same gearbox.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Yeah, I have OEM equivalent ATF FZ (blue) and I know the standard fluid replacement procedure (inspecting on 50 degree Celsius with running engine, draining then refilling, etc.)

What I don't know, if I'm going to drop the pan to replace the filter (as suggested in the forum multiple threads), what components should I use. So I can buy it from the local Mazda dealer only? Previously I've used online stores for this, to buy stuff based on part numbers.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top