Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Are there common points of failure with the gaskets, seals, boots etc? I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time under the front to track down the leaks I just know that its messy underneath.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,838 Posts
^^ What he said. Check your PCV valve/hose as well since those are prone to cracking/breaking and are a super easy fix.

Welcome to the forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I just picked up an 04 wagon and the valve covers were leaking badly. Particularly the front one. It was about a 4 hour job to pull, clean(this took the most time), reseal and replace them.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,056 Posts
Are there common points of failure with the gaskets, seals, boots etc? I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time under the front to track down the leaks I just know that its messy underneath.
Mine has been all timing cover until recently with the bank 1 valve cover. Rust protection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Timing cover....
Seems likely.


Also brings me to another question:


When pressing the throttle from idle, such as when starting out or even in neutral or park, I can hear a tapping, clicking, or mettalic throbbing that increases with the rpms but appears to quiet by 2K. IOW, I can only hear it from idle speed to 2K rpms, whether driving or stopped. I wonder if it is a loose timing chain, that rattles until up to speed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I've been playing whack a mole oil leak with my wagon for the last two weeks. I had a leaky front crank. It was the seal and the end of the crank needs to be sealed with silicone behind the crank bolt. Another source of leaking was my oil pressure sensor.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,056 Posts
I've been playing whack a mole oil leak with my wagon for the last two weeks. I had a leaky front crank. It was the seal and the end of the crank needs to be sealed with silicone behind the crank bolt.
Isn't this the front main seal? I don't think silicone alone will do it. Is that exactly what you said?
Another source of leaking was my oil pressure sensor.
That one should be easy. Remember it is into aluminum so don't over tighten it.
Well done.
Show us some pics of the ride when you get a chance.

https://forum.mazda6club.com/picture-videos/426057-wagon-love-post-up-your-photos.html
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,056 Posts
Timing cover....
Seems likely.


Also brings me to another question:


When pressing the throttle from idle, such as when starting out or even in neutral or park, I can hear a tapping, clicking, or mettalic throbbing that increases with the rpms but appears to quiet by 2K. IOW, I can only hear it from idle speed to 2K rpms, whether driving or stopped. I wonder if it is a loose timing chain, that rattles until up to speed.

Can you include a video?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Can you include a video?



What are the hosting reqs for video here? I've actually never posted a video on any forum for any past or present car, so its all new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
What are the hosting reqs for video here? I've actually never posted a video on any forum for any past or present car, so its all new.
According to this guy, this is the easiest way to do it.

Uploading to YouTube and sharing the link here would be the simplest, IMHO.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How to upload videos on YouTube? I don't know as I haven't tried it yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I had to replace the crank seal and silicone the pulley bolt. There is a leak path along the keyway out to the center bolt that holds the pulley on. You need to silicone up the end of the keyway. I pretty much filled the whole end of the crank with sealant though. Probably overkill but I don't want it leaking on me again.

I'm putting springs and shocks on this upcoming weekend. I'll post some pics when that's done.

Isn't this the front main seal? I don't think silicone alone will do it. Is that exactly what you said? That one should be easy. Remember it is into aluminum so don't over tighten it.
Well done.
Show us some pics of the ride when you get a chance.

https://forum.mazda6club.com/picture-videos/426057-wagon-love-post-up-your-photos.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Any of you guys with leaky timing chain covers have the experience of it appearing as if though it's the rear main seal? Mine has droplets coming off the bell housing but some have told me on this engine the timing cover leak can drip at the bell housing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Before I have a chance to link a video, I wanted to fine tune my assessment about the noise. It is definitely a knocking, but it only occurs when the transmission is engaged and only at super low rpm - like in the 1200 range. I was able to create it in neutral a couple of times, and even in drive while holding the brake, but today, it only would happen in drive while the car was moving. It sounds like it is behind the engine block, higher up than the driveshaft, but it can only be heard inside the car, because its too faint and the road noise swallows it up outside. Since it speeds up with the rpms, but then goes away before 2000, it really has me stumped. I'll try to get a video up on Sunday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Before I have a chance to link a video, I wanted to fine tune my assessment about the noise. It is definitely a knocking, but it only occurs when the transmission is engaged and only at super low rpm - like in the 1200 range. I was able to create it in neutral a couple of times, and even in drive while holding the brake, but today, it only would happen in drive while the car was moving. It sounds like it is behind the engine block, higher up than the driveshaft, but it can only be heard inside the car, because its too faint and the road noise swallows it up outside. Since it speeds up with the rpms, but then goes away before 2000, it really has me stumped. I'll try to get a video up on Sunday.
maybe the purge solenoid valve? My 6 ticks as well under low throttle but it’s gone after more load. https://forum.mazda6club.com/2-3l-i-4/219100-ticking-noise-when-accelerating.html#/topics/219100
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,056 Posts
Before I have a chance to link a video, I wanted to fine tune my assessment about the noise. It is definitely a knocking, but it only occurs when the transmission is engaged and only at super low rpm - like in the 1200 range. I was able to create it in neutral a couple of times, and even in drive while holding the brake, but today, it only would happen in drive while the car was moving. It sounds like it is behind the engine block, higher up than the driveshaft, but it can only be heard inside the car, because its too faint and the road noise swallows it up outside. Since it speeds up with the rpms, but then goes away before 2000, it really has me stumped. I'll try to get a video up on Sunday.
Don't you think it could be a rod bearing? Low RMP (lower oil pressure) under enough load...
Perhaps try a thicker oil (5w-40?). If it goes away the chances are greater. Sorry to bring that up, I know no one want to hear it. :|
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Don't you think it could be a rod bearing. Low RMP (lower oil pressure) under enough load...
Perhaps try a thicker oil (5w-40?). If it goes away the chances are greater. Sorry to bring that up, I know no one want to hear it. :|



I think you may be right. What else is this engine in? Ford Escape? Anything else? Thinking of tracking down an engine and tearing it down for a rebuild.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,056 Posts
I think you may be right. What else is this engine in? Ford Escape? Anything else? Thinking of tracking down an engine and tearing it down for a rebuild.
I have walked this road more than once so I empathize. I believe this motor is used in the whole US version Ford CD3 platform. Mazda 6, Ford Fusion, Lincoln MKZ or Zephyr/MKZ, Mercury Milan and variants used in the MPV, Sable/Tarus and Jaguar s-type, among others including the Noble M400 (twin turbo).
Your best bet is first generation Fusion.
Here is the AJ motor swap guide, authored by others, hosted my myself.


Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
There a quite few JDM ones on ebay too. Going rate is $750-$1000. There are also a ton with sub 100k on them on car-part.com.

Search Results

For that price I wouldn't bother rebuilding anything. It was actually one of the reasons I bought my car running on 5 cylinders. Engines are cheap enough to just throw away.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top