Negiotating with a dealer..
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Reading Topic: Negiotating with a dealer..
One tip:
If any dealer tries to get you to pay over $500 over invoice: walk out. It's been said before, there's no reason for a dealer to deal with you unless you make it clear that you're not interested in buying from them unless they give you a good price. Make sure you know how much you want to pay for the car, and tell the dealer about 300 under that, then "deal" up to what you're willing to pay. If he won't bite, go someplace else.
It's especially effective to tell a dealer that "so-and-so" didn't want your business, so you came to their dealer.
One tip:
If any dealer tries to get you to pay over $500 over invoice: walk out. It's been said before, there's no reason for a dealer to deal with you unless you make it clear that you're not interested in buying from them unless they give you a good price. Make sure you know how much you want to pay for the car, and tell the dealer about 300 under that, then "deal" up to what you're willing to pay. If he won't bite, go someplace else.
It's especially effective to tell a dealer that "so-and-so" didn't want your business, so you came to their dealer.
Reading Topic: Negiotating with a dealer..
If you're trading in a car - keep what they're giving you for it separate.
Look at it like two deals - you're getting X for the used car and paying Y for the new. Dealers will try to confuse you by putting the two together and making it difficult to understand what you're actually getting/paying. Yes - if they give you less for your car, they'll give you more money off for the new one - it's the same damn thing. Negotiate your best price on the used car - then negotiate on the new car. Use the internet - KBB.com, Edmunds etc. KNOW everything you can.
Lots of people do - but do NOT look at it like "oh, well it's only X dollars per month" As soon as you start looking at it as just a monthly payment, you're dead. What are you paying for the car? What's the financing?
Keep things straight in your head and if you don't understand, have the guts to ask questions until you do. Dealers thrive on people not totally understanding what's going on and feeling too intimidated to admit they don't totally understand. The dealer won't help - he wants top dollar, not your total understanding.
Also - go in with back-up. The salesman will have his - it's called the Sales Manager - when things get hot 'n heavy - he'll show up. Now it's 2 on 1. Bring someone who's not part of the deal - but can watch your back and make sure that what you think makes sense, does in fact, make sense. Or pull you out of a negotiation to discuss what's happening in private.
If you're trading in a car - keep what they're giving you for it separate.
Look at it like two deals - you're getting X for the used car and paying Y for the new. Dealers will try to confuse you by putting the two together and making it difficult to understand what you're actually getting/paying. Yes - if they give you less for your car, they'll give you more money off for the new one - it's the same damn thing. Negotiate your best price on the used car - then negotiate on the new car. Use the internet - KBB.com, Edmunds etc. KNOW everything you can.
Lots of people do - but do NOT look at it like "oh, well it's only X dollars per month" As soon as you start looking at it as just a monthly payment, you're dead. What are you paying for the car? What's the financing?
Keep things straight in your head and if you don't understand, have the guts to ask questions until you do. Dealers thrive on people not totally understanding what's going on and feeling too intimidated to admit they don't totally understand. The dealer won't help - he wants top dollar, not your total understanding.
Also - go in with back-up. The salesman will have his - it's called the Sales Manager - when things get hot 'n heavy - he'll show up. Now it's 2 on 1. Bring someone who's not part of the deal - but can watch your back and make sure that what you think makes sense, does in fact, make sense. Or pull you out of a negotiation to discuss what's happening in private.
Reading Topic: Negiotating with a dealer..
You should also ask around, or we can do it for you here, where the best dealer to go to is. Not all dealers are out to screw you, and some are actually pretty nice people. Chances are, someone on this board has already done what you're about to do, where you live. Anyone have any advice on dealers in the Ft Lauderdale area?
You should also ask around, or we can do it for you here, where the best dealer to go to is. Not all dealers are out to screw you, and some are actually pretty nice people. Chances are, someone on this board has already done what you're about to do, where you live. Anyone have any advice on dealers in the Ft Lauderdale area?
Reading Topic: Negiotating with a dealer..
Yeah because when I walk in and try to talk to the salesperson, they just take me lightly. I try to negotiate they won't budge because I think they get the impression that I am just some kid who wants a test drive and not actually there to buy the car. Although, that is true in some circumstances.
Yeah because when I walk in and try to talk to the salesperson, they just take me lightly. I try to negotiate they won't budge because I think they get the impression that I am just some kid who wants a test drive and not actually there to buy the car. Although, that is true in some circumstances.
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Replying to Topic 'Negiotating with a dealer..'
QUOTE
Don't be a "payment buyer". The dealer is sure to ask you "Well, how much are you looking to spend a month?" DO NOT ANSWER THIS QUESTION!!!! Do not answer any questions like "How much are you looking to spend?" You can tell him how much you are putting down if he asks, that doesn't matter. If you are financing, negotiate the price of the car first, and make it clear that the price you are negotating includes destination and everything else except tax, registration fees. The registration fees should be <$100.
I also recommend you go to peoplefirst.com and see what kind of loan they can give you. They will send you a "no obligation" blank check if you are approved, and you can go straight and write it to the dealer, if the dealer's financing can't beat Peoplefirst, you can use that Peoplefirst check. Personally, I got a rate of 4.25% from the dealer, and 4.39% from Peoplefirst, so I saved a couple pennies a month by financing through the dealer.
Come in with a printout off of Edmunds.com, showing the invoice price. Use their configurator tool to get the invoice price to include all options and fees that are applicable - such as the ULEV charge on the s. Offer $200 above that. Settle on around $500 over, and everyone will go home happy.
As the saying goes, don't go to the supermarket hungry. Actually, that's not a saying, I just made it up. Anyway, if the dealer asks you how you like the car after the test drive, say, it's all right. Be indifferent, otherwise they know you will take whatever deal they throw at you.
Don't be afraid to walk away from a dealer. There are zillions of Mazda dealers out there.
QUOTE
I've bought four new cars in the last couple of years, so I'm kind of familiar with how things go. Hope I can be of help:Originally posted by ugk
Anyone got tips for negiotating with a dealer for getting the best possible price ? I'm only 18, and don't want be screwed or taken advantage of, so help will be appreicated![/b]
Don't be a "payment buyer". The dealer is sure to ask you "Well, how much are you looking to spend a month?" DO NOT ANSWER THIS QUESTION!!!! Do not answer any questions like "How much are you looking to spend?" You can tell him how much you are putting down if he asks, that doesn't matter. If you are financing, negotiate the price of the car first, and make it clear that the price you are negotating includes destination and everything else except tax, registration fees. The registration fees should be <$100.
I also recommend you go to peoplefirst.com and see what kind of loan they can give you. They will send you a "no obligation" blank check if you are approved, and you can go straight and write it to the dealer, if the dealer's financing can't beat Peoplefirst, you can use that Peoplefirst check. Personally, I got a rate of 4.25% from the dealer, and 4.39% from Peoplefirst, so I saved a couple pennies a month by financing through the dealer.
Come in with a printout off of Edmunds.com, showing the invoice price. Use their configurator tool to get the invoice price to include all options and fees that are applicable - such as the ULEV charge on the s. Offer $200 above that. Settle on around $500 over, and everyone will go home happy.
As the saying goes, don't go to the supermarket hungry. Actually, that's not a saying, I just made it up. Anyway, if the dealer asks you how you like the car after the test drive, say, it's all right. Be indifferent, otherwise they know you will take whatever deal they throw at you.
Don't be afraid to walk away from a dealer. There are zillions of Mazda dealers out there.
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Reading Topic: Negiotating with a dealer..
tell the dealer he's going to be stuck with all th 2003 when 2004 rolls out soon. ;-) big time bargining power there!
tell the dealer he's going to be stuck with all th 2003 when 2004 rolls out soon. ;-) big time bargining power there!
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Replying to Topic 'Negiotating with a dealer..'
QUOTE
Don't be a "payment buyer". The dealer is sure to ask you "Well, how much are you looking to spend a month?" DO NOT ANSWER THIS QUESTION!!!! Do not answer any questions like "How much are you looking to spend?" You can tell him how much you are putting down if he asks, that doesn't matter. If you are financing, negotiate the price of the car first, and make it clear that the price you are negotating includes destination and everything else except tax, registration fees. The registration fees should be <$100.
I also recommend you go to peoplefirst.com and see what kind of loan they can give you. They will send you a "no obligation" blank check if you are approved, and you can go straight and write it to the dealer, if the dealer's financing can't beat Peoplefirst, you can use that Peoplefirst check. Personally, I got a rate of 4.25% from the dealer, and 4.39% from Peoplefirst, so I saved a couple pennies a month by financing through the dealer.
Come in with a printout off of Edmunds.com, showing the invoice price. Use their configurator tool to get the invoice price to include all options and fees that are applicable - such as the ULEV charge on the s. Offer $200 above that. Settle on around $500 over, and everyone will go home happy.
As the saying goes, don't go to the supermarket hungry. Actually, that's not a saying, I just made it up. Anyway, if the dealer asks you how you like the car after the test drive, say, it's all right. Be indifferent, otherwise they know you will take whatever deal they throw at you.
Don't be afraid to walk away from a dealer. There are zillions of Mazda dealers out there.[/b][/quote]
Just curious, where did u buy ur car?? Did u buy from us, if not why not?
QUOTE
I've bought four new cars in the last couple of years, so I'm kind of familiar with how things go. Hope I can be of help:Originally posted by ugk
Anyone got tips for negiotating with a dealer for getting the best possible price ? I'm only 18, and don't want be screwed or taken advantage of, so help will be appreicated!
Don't be a "payment buyer". The dealer is sure to ask you "Well, how much are you looking to spend a month?" DO NOT ANSWER THIS QUESTION!!!! Do not answer any questions like "How much are you looking to spend?" You can tell him how much you are putting down if he asks, that doesn't matter. If you are financing, negotiate the price of the car first, and make it clear that the price you are negotating includes destination and everything else except tax, registration fees. The registration fees should be <$100.
I also recommend you go to peoplefirst.com and see what kind of loan they can give you. They will send you a "no obligation" blank check if you are approved, and you can go straight and write it to the dealer, if the dealer's financing can't beat Peoplefirst, you can use that Peoplefirst check. Personally, I got a rate of 4.25% from the dealer, and 4.39% from Peoplefirst, so I saved a couple pennies a month by financing through the dealer.
Come in with a printout off of Edmunds.com, showing the invoice price. Use their configurator tool to get the invoice price to include all options and fees that are applicable - such as the ULEV charge on the s. Offer $200 above that. Settle on around $500 over, and everyone will go home happy.
As the saying goes, don't go to the supermarket hungry. Actually, that's not a saying, I just made it up. Anyway, if the dealer asks you how you like the car after the test drive, say, it's all right. Be indifferent, otherwise they know you will take whatever deal they throw at you.
Don't be afraid to walk away from a dealer. There are zillions of Mazda dealers out there.[/b][/quote]
Just curious, where did u buy ur car?? Did u buy from us, if not why not?
Reading Topic: Negiotating with a dealer..
I agree with pretty much everything said here.
DO NOT FOCUS ON MONTHLY PAYMENT
Figure out what you think is a fair price, the percentage rate you qualify for, then figure out the term you want 36, 48, 60, 66, 72. Use MS Excel to figure out where you will be payment wise. Know exaclty what their fees, taxes, etc are before hand. Know exactly what you want, and take a laptop or calculator with you.
Be careful of the "bid sheet" that they usually make you initial. $8.33 a month difference over 60 months is $500. So watch the numbers. I caught them trying to jack me for $500 more than I agreed to. It's hard to notice an $8.33 difference, but $500 is a big deal. I knew the exact numbers I wanted, and when she came at me with a figure that was off by $8.33, I called her on it.
Now, to the guy who said "Don't pay more than $500 over invoice." This is true in most cases. But in the case of the 6s with 5 speen manual--good luck. Those things are moving like hot cakes and many are sold months ahead of time. So, in some cases, you wont have much room.
Quite honestly, I paid near MSRP for my Silver 6s with 5 speed, Sport, and Bose, because I really wanted the car, I think it's well worth it, and they are impossible to find around here. So, decide what you think is a fair price.
TELL THEM YOU DO NOT WANT ANY DEALER INSTALLED OPTIONS like "paint sealant", scotch guard, under coating, etc, etc.
I agree with pretty much everything said here.
DO NOT FOCUS ON MONTHLY PAYMENT
Figure out what you think is a fair price, the percentage rate you qualify for, then figure out the term you want 36, 48, 60, 66, 72. Use MS Excel to figure out where you will be payment wise. Know exaclty what their fees, taxes, etc are before hand. Know exactly what you want, and take a laptop or calculator with you.
Be careful of the "bid sheet" that they usually make you initial. $8.33 a month difference over 60 months is $500. So watch the numbers. I caught them trying to jack me for $500 more than I agreed to. It's hard to notice an $8.33 difference, but $500 is a big deal. I knew the exact numbers I wanted, and when she came at me with a figure that was off by $8.33, I called her on it.
Now, to the guy who said "Don't pay more than $500 over invoice." This is true in most cases. But in the case of the 6s with 5 speen manual--good luck. Those things are moving like hot cakes and many are sold months ahead of time. So, in some cases, you wont have much room.
Quite honestly, I paid near MSRP for my Silver 6s with 5 speed, Sport, and Bose, because I really wanted the car, I think it's well worth it, and they are impossible to find around here. So, decide what you think is a fair price.
TELL THEM YOU DO NOT WANT ANY DEALER INSTALLED OPTIONS like "paint sealant", scotch guard, under coating, etc, etc.
Reading Topic: Reading Topic: Negiotating with a dealer..
If it's a large dealership, try doing the entire deal over the phone. Ask to speak with the fleet manager and NOT a salesperson. Typically the fleet manager is a salaried person, so making a high-profit sale isn't going to keep him/her from eating that night. For the fleet manager, it's all about volume. Be professional, do your homework, and put a spreadsheet together with the option codes and the invoice prices. Don't forget the destination charge or the doc fee (which most dealers mandate nowadays).
Add about $300-400 to the final invoice price and fax or email it to the fleet manager after you talk to him on the phone. Tell him before you send it that this is what you want to pay and if he'll do that you'll go ahead and put the deposit down to order it or whatever.
That worked like a champ for me. Even at a dealership where most of the 6's are going for full sticker.
If it's a large dealership, try doing the entire deal over the phone. Ask to speak with the fleet manager and NOT a salesperson. Typically the fleet manager is a salaried person, so making a high-profit sale isn't going to keep him/her from eating that night. For the fleet manager, it's all about volume. Be professional, do your homework, and put a spreadsheet together with the option codes and the invoice prices. Don't forget the destination charge or the doc fee (which most dealers mandate nowadays).
Add about $300-400 to the final invoice price and fax or email it to the fleet manager after you talk to him on the phone. Tell him before you send it that this is what you want to pay and if he'll do that you'll go ahead and put the deposit down to order it or whatever.
That worked like a champ for me. Even at a dealership where most of the 6's are going for full sticker.
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Replying to Topic 'Negiotating with a dealer..'
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Very true. Some cars go for over MSRP (Evolution); some go for below or very close to Invoice (Civics, Sentras, and the 03 Maxima now that they uglifyed it for the 04). $500 over invoice is not a magic number.
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Replying to Topic 'Negiotating with a dealer..'
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Sometimes this is a good idea. However, you won't find too many fleet managers in Mazda dealers as no companies or government agencies really use Mazdas on a large enough scale to justify hiring a fleet person.
Replying to Topic 'Negiotating with a dealer..'
QUOTE
[/b][/quote]
True. My dealer was a Dodge/Buick/Mazda conglomerate so they were frickin huge. At least you could make the call and ask...if the operator says "huh? what's a fleet manager?" then you probably will either need to find another dealer or go the "normal" route (i.e. through the actual sales department).
QUOTE
Sometimes this is a good idea. However, you won't find too many fleet managers in Mazda dealers as no companies or government agencies really use Mazdas on a large enough scale to justify hiring a fleet person.
[/b][/quote]
True. My dealer was a Dodge/Buick/Mazda conglomerate so they were frickin huge. At least you could make the call and ask...if the operator says "huh? what's a fleet manager?" then you probably will either need to find another dealer or go the "normal" route (i.e. through the actual sales department).
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