Mazda 6 Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2007 Mazda atenza sedan and recently installed a new pioneer head unit. now I need to upgrade my speakers because they're not as high quality as I want them to be (and they're also blowing out lol). I'm going to go all out and find the highest quality 4-way speakers, subwoofer, and amplifier possible. they must have the highest peak and RMS wattage, and the broadest frequency range. go big or go home.

of course, the speakers need to actually fit my car's speakers (pictured below), and I kind of have no idea how to add an amplifier and subwoofer into the mix. I intend to get a subwoofer about 18" in diameter, would it have to be wired into the boot or something?

I also plan to get this because I simply require pristine audio quality in me car:


any help in my endeavour would be greatly appreciated

cheers

Output device Automotive tire Automotive lighting Synthetic rubber Grille
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I share your view; bad sound quality is tiring.
My 2017 Mazda6 has a standard radio and loudspeakers and sounds… bad! So, coming from a full packet JBL in a Citroen I want something in that direction and I will go for a “sound package” with digital adjuster of the sound + new loudspeakers. This can be fitted to the original radio and be dismantled if I should buy another car (doubt I will as this Mazda is great).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
You want pristine audio and the car is filthy... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Lol mines covered in grease so his is pretty clean (all of his should come out with a vaccum) but anyhow OP idk if the websites work the same over where you are but around here scar audio, crutchfield, and bose. idk if that will help much but those are the brands my friends and i have used in our cars.

Skar Audio

Crutchfield: Car Stereo and Audio, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, TVs

True believers in the power of sound | Bose Automotive
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
18" sub is massive. You really do want to go big! I have a 1300w (max, about 400rms) 10" Kenwood running off an old crappy 600w (max, about 175rms) amp & it's got a lot of kick. I'd love hear what it sounds like with a suitable amp installed.

I have a 2011 6 gen 2, but the speaker grills looks the same as mine, so if they didn't change the speaker size on the facelift, then I think you'll be needing 6x8 speakers all round. Something along the lines of the below, but I would definitely confirm those speaker sizes for your car though.

These are on the cheaper end, but they do more premium ones.


I couldn't tell you what to go with on a top end amp as I'm always on the budget side. For neatness I'd suggest one big 6 channel amp & bridge two of the channels for the sub, but that may not be the best option for sound quality over a separate amp for your main speakers & a single channel amp dedicated to the subwoofer.

Regarding wiring an amp in.

1. Run a main fused power wire from your car battery to the location of the amp or amps which means getting through the firewall from the engine bay. If it's a right hand drive model, I had to remove the battery & there was a big grommet behind with all the wiring to the fusebox that I passed through. I got the impression that on LH models it's easier, but don't quote me on that. Make sure that the power cable you buy is a suitable guage wire for the wattage you are planning on running. There's plenty of info online about this. The power cable I have is nowhere near big enough for the sound system you sound like you want to install. If you're running 2 amplifiers, you'll also need a distribution block to split the power to each amp.

1a. You'll need a ground wire from each amp, you usually can just find a suitable bolt in the boot for this to ground on the bodywork, or find a dedicated ground wire. There'll be one behind the head unit, but that's another long run of cable. You'll also need an "ignition on" or stereo on wire for the amp, so that the amp(s) turn on when you turn the igition, or turn on the stereo. It'll probably be a single run thin cable from the head unit to the amp.

2. Depending on your head unit, you'll need to run RCA cables from the back of your head unit to the amps. 1 pair for the front speakers, another for the rear speakers, & your subwoofer could be another pair, or a single with a built in Y splitter in. Your subwoofer amplifier will likely have a left & right RCA input, but your head unit may have 2 outputs, or just the one like mine. As you've installed an aftermarket head unit, it's very unlikely you won't have RCA outputs. Speaker level outputs, like on an OEM head unit are a bit of a pain to deal with.

3. Speaker wire to run from the amplifier supplying the subwoofer to the subwoofer. If it's a standard in the boot setup then it should just be a short piece.

4. Speaker wires to run from the amplifier supplying the door speakers back to the head unit. 4 pairs, one for each speaker. You will need to cut the original speaker output wires from the wiring loom at the back of the head unit & tie in the ones from the amplifier, so you'll be cutting & crimping/soldering in 8 wires in total.

Small hint regarding running cables/wires - always start at the head unit. It's much easier to pass cables down behind the head unit than it is trying to pass them up. There's not a lot of room to work with. Or, you could pay somebody else to do it, but that makes me feel dirty just saying it :).

The below is my partially done setup on my newly acquired 2011 6. I've still got aways to go as I want to build a proper amp rack instead of the mess of wires I had in my last car, & I still need to run the speaker wires from the head unit to the boot.


Electrical wiring Automotive tire Audio equipment Automotive lighting Cable


Hope this wall of text helps a bit.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top