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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need help - if anyone knows that.

I am trying to obtain rear brake pads for my Mazda 6 2016. I initially ordered the Posi Quiet that were suppose to be compatible with 14/15/16 .. after comparing the pads it seems that the after market pads and stock pads look differently, even hardware is different.

Rockauto didn't had them in the compatible list for the 16, so I ordered the ones that they had. Turns out that there are the exact same way shaped as the Posi Quiet...

I probably have to put the old stock ones on and drive to the dealer to obtain brake pads but wonder if anyone already changed the REAR pads on a 2016 6 with electronic brake and what parts you used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok I just bought new brake pads from the dealer .. what a I mess.. Now I see you need a special service tool for the electronic brake ... OMG. Neverending.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok figured it all out.

Basically you need to unmount the brake motor .. it's just a stepper motor with a 3-torx screw.

I will do a full write up with pictures later but it comes down to:

1) Unmount the brake motor (uses a T30 Torx)
2) Using a T40 Torx slowly turn clock-wise the park brake screw until it's all the way down.
3) Then just push in the piston back with a normal piston tool
4) Tata - that's it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Next issue: I can't get hydraulic pressure built up in the calipers ... probably because there is way too much air in the break lines.

However I messed up one of the gasket rings :\
 

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Wow 2016 and already replacing rear brakes? Rear brakes should last 60k easily! Or is there something special about mazda brakes?

As far as brakes goes always get them from dealer! Or the high end Wagner, stay away from Duracrap, and O'Reilly crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I run PosiQuiet however for the 2016 rear you have no option and have to revert to the dealer since it uses an electronic brake and requires a "special" kind of pad. Special means that there is a freaking sticker on it, that glues to the piston.
 

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Thanks for the information flyandi. I have a 2016 purchased in May of 2015 and it just had it's front brakes replaced at 45K (I used to commute 160 miles round-trip everyday and now do less than half). The total cost from the dealership was $134 for the OEM brake pads and a whopping $238 for labor including resurfacing the rotors.

The only good that came out of this is they offer a lifetime warranty on the brakepads, so the next time I need them in the front I only pay the labor fees and new pads are free. Can I get your opinions on the cost for this since my rear-brake job is coming up soon?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did all four side for $300 including rotors and brake pads myself.

The most expensive part was the $120 for the rear brake pads since those are specialized one that only works with the electronic brake system of that MFG - some german company called "TMR". Looks like they deliver the entire system including calipers and it looks like the very same system is also being used in BMW, Audi and VW. Right now you can't get any after market parts.

The rear can be done in 30min by yourself because you don't unmount the calipers which is nice.

Preparation:

- Brake Pads of course
- Brake Cleaner
- Brake fluid (DOT-3) - I always do brake bleeding just in case.
- T40 Torx, T30 Torx

1. Unhook the brake pad carrier
Remove the two screws (17mm to hold and I think 14mm for unscrewing) from the carrier holder. It's pretty much the same as every other car:

Check here for schematics (note they all are for 2014+ with about 90% the same for the 2016):

https://www.eecs.tufts.edu/~stephen...w04/html/id041100800500.html#id04110080050001

#4 in the schematics.

Once you have unhooked the carrier, you can remove it by pulling it up and remove the old brake pads.

NOTE: They will be both glued to the piston and the carrier, so you will have to use some force to pull it out. You won't brake anything, even it feels/looks like it :)

Make sure you clean off the piston from any sticker residue. I used some brake cleaner along with a steel brush.

Also now it's a good time to clean of any from the calipers and the carrier.

2. Reset the electronic brake - HIGHLY IMPORTANT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE


The brake pads come with a small instruction sheet talking about using a computer to reset them, etc. You don't need that, you just have to reset the electronic brake to it's starting position.

Use a T30 Torx to remove the two screws that hold the motor to the caliper - it's the big black plastic box on the back of the caliper. Carefully remove the motor straight back. You will see on the caliper side that there is a triple square screw in it. Triple square is compatible with a torx (36 sides vs 6 sides).

Use a T40 Torx and slowly put in the molding and then turn clock-wise until it's all the way down. Don't use force - once it's stopped that's it.

Put the motor back on it and screw it together.

3. Pull the piston back

Like in the old days just push the piston back with a piston tool or a clamp. It's super easy at this point. I thought initially you had to have the 3 point tool but you don't. The piston is just a push back and not turn-back.

4. Install the pads

So here comes the fun part. Follow the instructions that came with the brake pads. Basically carefully remove the stickers (they don't stick very well so you might want to push them down before removing the protection tape). Then lock them in the carrier and put the carrier back.

DO NOT USE ANY GREASE ON THE PADS OR THEY WILL FAIL!!!!

5. Put everything back together

Now just screw the carrier back to the calipers.

Fully pump your brakes so the piston's engage the pads towards the rotors.

Bleed the brakes if necessary.

6. Electronic Brake Adjustments.

Nothing special other than after you completed 5. - hit the button for the parking brake and let the motor drive in it's lock position. It might take a bit longer than usual because it's driving all the way from the back to the front.

Once it's done. Do it 2x in a row and make sure everything works ok.


That's it.

Hope that helps.
 

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I've got 72k on my car and my pads still look great all around. You guys ought to start coasting up to stoplights and stop signs instead of hammering the throttle and brakes all the time. It saves brakes AND fuel, plus you really don't end up any slower since you have to wait at the stoplight for less time.

Also, I am super glad my 2014 came with a mechanical e-brake. All these new electronic e-brakes are constantly being recalled for various issues. Why fix it if it aint broken!
 

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Rear brake part numbers

I'm getting two conflicting part numbers for my rear brakes: GHY92648ZC that won't fit and GMY02643ZB that I haven't order but I'm afraid of spending anymore money for parts that don't fit. Could someone help me out?
 

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That's it.

Hope that helps.
flyandi, appreciate the thorough instructions you posted. I changed my rear brakes on my 16 GT over the weekend using my dad's garage/help and it was super easy following your instructions. Is the process for the front the same/similar and is there a specific tool needed to do the fronts?


I'm getting two conflicting part numbers for my rear brakes: GHY92648ZC that won't fit and GMY02643ZB that I haven't order but I'm afraid of spending anymore money for parts that don't fit. Could someone help me out?

leobychoice, here is the part number on my box for the rear brakes on my 16' GT (it has the black electronic box). I had to purchase them from the dealer for about $140 after taxes. :crying:

GYMO-26-43zb
 

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Wow 2016 and already replacing rear brakes? Rear brakes should last 60k easily! Or is there something special about mazda brakes?

As far as brakes goes always get them from dealer! Or the high end Wagner, stay away from Duracrap, and O'Reilly crap.


Just a FYI, but for some reason the rear brakes on the two Mazda's we own (2014 6 and 2014 CX-5) both have had the rear pads wear out at a much faster rate than the fronts which is definitely not the norm.


The centric drilled rotors and posi-quiet pads from Rockauto fit just fine on my 2014 and after about a month of being on, they work wonderful.


I'm not sure how much the pads and assembly changed from the 14 to the 16 though.
 

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I've got 72k on my car and my pads still look great all around. You guys ought to start coasting up to stoplights and stop signs instead of hammering the throttle and brakes all the time. It saves brakes AND fuel, plus you really don't end up any slower since you have to wait at the stoplight for less time.

Also, I am super glad my 2014 came with a mechanical e-brake. All these new electronic e-brakes are constantly being recalled for various issues. Why fix it if it aint broken!

Agreed. Really glad I don't have the electronic e-brake, it just seems like something else "electronic" that could fail...or in this case cause more work, or I should say work for the dealership in most cases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just a FYI, but for some reason the rear brakes on the two Mazda's we own (2014 6 and 2014 CX-5) both have had the rear pads wear out at a much faster rate than the fronts which is definitely not the norm.


The centric drilled rotors and posi-quiet pads from Rockauto fit just fine on my 2014 and after about a month of being on, they work wonderful.


I'm not sure how much the pads and assembly changed from the 14 to the 16 though.

Caliper with the electronic brake is different design. While the piston is still the same - the caliper hook-up points are different including the shape of the rear brake pad.

Rockauto finally has after market pads as well for the 16/17 model range:

POWER STOP 161874 Evolution Ceramic Info
Rear; OE Ceramic

$20 !!!
 

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So the rear brakes use the same pads for normal stopping and for parking/emergency?

Most I've dealt with have a separate drum type setup inside the rotor hub
 
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