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Discussion Starter #1
For anyone who has installed an am in their 2005 M6, how do you run the speaker wire into the doors????

There seems to be only 1 grommet going into the door, and it's an actual plug-in, not just an opening.

I'm doing the install right now, so if anyone could answer quickly, I'd apprciate it.

Thanks!
 

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personally id prolly just tap into the wires in the back of the headunit.... a copper wire is a copper wire... may not be the gauge u want, but a bigger gauge wire only changes the resistanse in sizes of like .1 ohm which might drop you 1 watt max
 

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front doors are a pain in the ass. Drivers side: unbolt the arm tha stops the door from opening fully, pull rubber away from the plug and un clip the plug from the body, you will only be able to pull it away a little, when looking at the plub you should be able to see a small hole and a gap on the inside. the gap will leave just enuf room for the wire to fit between the body and plug, fish the lengthh of wire you need to reach the amp from the door thru the small holeleaving only what you need to go to the door speaker(s), you will need to tape the wire to a peice of coat hanger to get it thru the body (be careful), reach under the dash and you shoul be able to find the coathanger, pull the rest of the wire thru. put the rubber back on the plug and put the plug back in the body.
Passanger side front is a little easyer: remove the rubber, their will be a hole on the front side of the plug that the wire will easily slid thru, their will be a peice of foam covering the hole in the body under the dash, pull that down and reach in, you should be able to grab the wire and pull it thru.

as for the rear doors i just pulled the plugs apart and drilled a hole in them wher the little plastic arrow is on the inside and on top of the clip on the outside.

Sorry if this doesent help much, im not all that good at explaining things. Im more hands on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
front doors are a pain in the ass. Drivers side: unbolt the arm tha stops the door from opening fully, pull rubber away from the plug and un clip the plug from the body, you will only be able to pull it away a little, when looking at the plub you should be able to see a small hole and a gap on the inside. the gap will leave just enuf room for the wire to fit between the body and plug, fish the lengthh of wire you need to reach the amp from the door thru the small holeleaving only what you need to go to the door speaker(s), you will need to tape the wire to a peice of coat hanger to get it thru the body (be careful), reach under the dash and you shoul be able to find the coathanger, pull the rest of the wire thru. put the rubber back on the plug and put the plug back in the body.
Passanger side front is a little easyer: remove the rubber, their will be a hole on the front side of the plug that the wire will easily slid thru, their will be a peice of foam covering the hole in the body under the dash, pull that down and reach in, you should be able to grab the wire and pull it thru.

as for the rear doors i just pulled the plugs apart and drilled a hole in them wher the little plastic arrow is on the inside and on top of the clip on the outside.

Sorry if this doesent help much, im not all that good at explaining things. Im more hands on.
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No...that's great. At least now I know where to narrow my search to.

Can anyone else expand on what he said a little, or better yet, have pics of where to go through?

Thanks!
 

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tap into factory wires... quick and easy... upgrading wires isnt really that big of a deal
 

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Discussion Starter #8
tap into factory wires... quick and easy... upgrading wires isnt really that big of a deal
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I have an amp that pushes like 90w x 4. Wouldn't that kind of defeat the purpose? Would the factory wires handle that much power?
 

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in theory any wire can carry any current.... the only difference is that smaller gauge wires will add more resistance... and heat up more...

http://www.epanorama.net/documents/wiring/...resistance.html

has a table of resistances.. everyone makes it out to be a big deal having big gauge for speaker wire.... for example 4ga has 17 times less resistance than 16 gauge... but when your talkin about .000292 ohms compared to 2 or 4 ohms of a speaker, doesnt change much.. maybe lose 1-2 watts

not gonna lie tho, i have like 6ga goin from my amp to my sub... makes me feel better about my self and my setup
but if i was to add an amp, id def tap into the factory wires... the complexity of rewiring your car is a lil much for me... have to remove seats, door panels, carpet, consolues... (if u do it right) only reason id consider this is if i dynamatted my whole car, mine as well run new wires while everything is stripped out
 

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Discussion Starter #11
See....that's the thing, though. On Saturday, I HAD everything stripped out. Doors were off.....seats out......carpet pulled back......EVERYTHING. I just ran into a complete roadblock trying to get the wire into the door........
 

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wow.. thats blows, i woulda just put the seats back in without carpet n consoles until i figured it out....

back when i had my jeep i rode around without seats and a rca cable goin overtop everything cause i had to stop installation halfway cause of rain

a suggestion..... pop off the doors and look near the grommet and wiggle the speaker wires from the door.. see if u can see any wires wiggling from the grommet... once u find the wires (maybe even color coorination could replace wiggling) tape your new wires to that wire and cut the factory one and pull it through

i personally havent popped off the door panels in my 6 yet, but this is kinda the basic idea when replacing wires in a car... use the old one as a fishing device
 

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Discussion Starter #13
See....I thought of that, however, the wires going in from the outside go to a plug, that plugs into a plug on the inside that contains those wires. It's not like it's 1 continuous all the way through.
 

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I really wih i could do more for you, but i just dont know how to explain it any differently. And like i said im not all that good at explaining things. im assuming that you did a search befor posting the topic. thats what helped me (alittle) Have you managed to get the wires ran thru any door yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I really wih i could do more for you, but i just dont know how to explain it any differently. And like i said im not all that good at explaining things. im assuming that you did a search befor posting the topic. thats what helped me (alittle) Have you managed to get the wires ran thru any door yet?
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No....unfortunately not. I started with the fronts, which is where I got stuck.

Your explanation helped a little.....I can almost visualize what you are talking about. Can you go into any more detail? For instance....where is the gap you are talking about running through? Is it at the front (front of car) of the plug, or the rear (rear of car), and closer to the top or bottom?

just go into as much detail as possible.

Thanks
 

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Anyone? I know there are people here that have put amps in their cars.....
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I have put many amps in many cars and I always use a thick pretty stiff piece of wire. Feed that trough the grommet when you fish it out of the other end, duct tape the new wires to it very well and pull through! It takes a little finese to get the feeder wire through but once you get the hang of it, it saves lots of time!
 

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on the drivers side the gap is on the bottem towards the back of the car.there should be a big blue clip on the drivers side plug. My wire runs just below that clip.
 

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I went a little overboard on my install and ended up running 3 pairs of 16 ga. through the stock molex (I think that is what the wiring harness is called). I ended up unconnecting the molex and noticed there are a few open spaces on the connector with no wires running through them. I VERY VERY carefully drilled a hole through those open spots and fished my wires through the hole I made. The original wire I bought had a jacket that was way to thick to fit so I went out and got some flat StreetWires 16 gauge to feed through the hole I made in the molex connector. I then soldered my fancier/thicker wire to the flat wire then made the run back to my trunk.

Took a little bit of time because I wanted to be carefull and not ruin the molex or accidentally drill my stock wiring, but it worked out good in the end and was actually pretty simple. I got all three pairs of wires through the stock wiring harness, enough for two tweeters and a midbass for each door.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I went a little overboard on my install and ended up running 3 pairs of 16 ga. through the stock molex (I think that is what the wiring harness is called). I ended up unconnecting the molex and noticed there are a few open spaces on the connector with no wires running through them. I VERY VERY carefully drilled a hole through those open spots and fished my wires through the hole I made. The original wire I bought had a jacket that was way to thick to fit so I went out and got some flat StreetWires 16 gauge to feed through the hole I made in the molex connector. I then soldered my fancier/thicker wire to the flat wire then made the run back to my trunk.

Took a little bit of time because I wanted to be carefull and not ruin the molex or accidentally drill my stock wiring, but it worked out good in the end and was actually pretty simple. I got all three pairs of wires through the stock wiring harness, enough for two tweeters and a midbass for each door.
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You don't happen to have any pics of what you did, do you?
 
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