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Discussion Starter #1
First i'd like to thank Tim for his lovely write up on installing the HID's and for taking awesome step by step pictures. I followed your guide the whole way through, as well as fighting with the girlfriend and the bit issue. Guys who are attempting to do the retrofit...do yourself a favor and GET THAT BIT!!! its a must.

Thanks also to Alan that helped me diagnose my wiring problem. or fuse problem i should say.
Also thanks to Jeremy, fuzwui, and robinlb for answering all my pain in the ass questions.

Pictures will be added her as soon as i can adjust the headlights, but i'll leave the problems on this thread for others to review it.

:nana:

First problem was i couldnt find the damn T20 SECURE torx bit....

New problem with wiring....what the fuck do i do with this crap!!!????

Do i need to run something to the negative battery terminal as well as the positive...i think xenon depot might have screwed me...


that one picture is of course the H1 connector you're suppose to cut off and splice into the stock wire harness....which i did, and i get nothing...

Why does Tim's wire harness look so diffrent...also they sent me two of these harneses...i'm assuming 1 for each ballast..bbut now i need to tap into both stock wires, and run both wires up to the + battery terminal....talk about confused guys.... :tear:
 

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I'm sure Sears would have it, I have a Sears mechanics toolset and it's got a couple Torx bits in with it... Not sure what size, but I'm sure they'd have it.
 

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That's called a protected or tamper-proof Torx bit. Sears would be a good try or maybe an auto parts place (NAPA, Advance, Autozone.etc.).
 

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........ and that;s why i put that thing in bold in the how-to.... i know how u feel.... i rushed to canadian tire the next morning as soon as it opens... aha.. good luck man.... i tried all of it as well, and the best way is to get the secure t20.... good luck !!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's called a protected or tamper-proof Torx bit. Sears would be a good try or maybe an auto parts place (NAPA, Advance, Autozone.etc.).
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Thanks, i'm going to go to autozone first thing at 9am sharp.....


........ and that;s why i put that thing in bold in the how-to.... i know how u feel.... i rushed to canadian tire the next morning as soon as it opens... aha.. good luck man.... i tried all of it as well, and the best way is to get the secure t20.... good luck !!
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Listen man...i know this sounds werid..but i was soo pissed, and my girlfriend called to ask how it was going..i told her my situation, and shes like well doesnt someone you know have it?? i'm like listen bitch i cant explain it to you..and we started fighting, and i yelled alot...so yeah i'll be there first thing in the morning as well...

think you should like put that as the first thing in super bold...like "LISTEN STOP EVERYTHING AND GET THIS PART"...because i thought maybe i could find it somewhere in my dad's tools...NOPE..not a chance in hell..and then i went to home depot..got a regular bit...had to take it back...then the store closed..just a mess...


Sears sells a special screwdriver tool kit that has various kinds of security / specialty tips. Included is the T-20 tamper proof torx bit.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes
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Thanks for the link man, think i'm going to just get that one bit.....


i did test one just to see if the wire harness would work and make sure that the sucker powered up before i went any further...oh my god...seriously one projector is about the same if not better than BOTH of the stock halogen....SICKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK, cant' wait to finish this tom morning, and take a gazillion fotos....keep yall up to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OKay guys new problem....does anyone have a picture of what the wire harness looks like from xenon depot? because i got one here, and it looks alot diffrent than t_mo_t's in his write up.

Also another question, just wondering if when baking the headlight, and i had already cut the stock wires, would that affect the way current would run through the stock wires at the tips? like the cooper exposed part?
 

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I can't answer the Xenon Depot wire harness question. But don't worry about baking the headlight and having the wires exposed / cut. It won't effect the current draw / resistance of the wire.

Did you find the torx bit?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I can't answer the Xenon Depot wire harness question. But don't worry about baking the headlight and having the wires exposed / cut. It won't effect the current draw / resistance of the wire.

Did you find the torx bit?
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yeah i did find the torx bit after 2 hours of searching morris county!!! lol

so why wont the ballst power up...Hmmmm
 

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I'm not sure how your knowledge is on electrical systems, but make sure that you are connecting the hot (+) wire to the battery and not the (+) for the trigger. Does your harness have 1 relay or 2 relays? Do you have a multimeter or test light? If you have a multimeter, you should be able to trace the wires to figure out the wires coming off the relay: battery (+), trigger (+), trigger (-), ballast (+). Also, make sure you have a good ground for the trigger and the ballast wires.
 

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Your picture of the harness is very blurry, so I am guessing at what certain items are. I put a question next to the items that I am unsure of because of the picture resolution. If you have 2 of these harnesses, then that means you will have one for each ballast. The good part of having 2 separate harnesses is if you lose a relay or fuse, you will still have 1 functional headlight. The bad part is you have alot more wire to hook up.

In the picture is the "Ground (-) trigger wire" actually both wires for the trigger (original halogen connection)? I cannot tell.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Dont have a meter....because i'm really starting to think that there is no power coming from the low beam stock wires......

the hids power up fine if i connect directly through the ballast either to the car battery or cpu power supply....but once i hook the ballast up to the stock wires...NOTHING...

whats this trigger that you speak of ...? "Ground (-) trigger wire" that you referred to in the picture is the H1 wire harness that was on the relay, it has a white/black wire. White assuming is the positive, connects to the brown stock wire. and both blacks connect together. Assuming thats the way...and properly grounding the negative wire, and attaching the red + wire to the + terminal on the battery, thats my setup....but still nothing....

Thanks for all the help also...this really is frustrating as my car is in pieces... :tear:
 

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The trigger is what you connect the stock H1 wires to. It trips the relay when power is on.

Just to check: Is the headlight connector plugged in (at the back of the headlight assembly)? If it is connected and still not turning on, look at the male pins on the back of the headlight and the female pins on the connector to make sure they are making contact. Make sure the pins haven't shifted. Also, check to make sure the xenon depot fuse holder actually has a fuse in it. If so, what is the amp rating? It should be 15 amps.

Where did you connect the ballast ground? To the battery or a bolt on the chassis? If it is a chassis bolt, make sure it is a good ground (ideally not a painted surface).

If everything checks OK above, then you may need to get a multimeter or test light to verify your theory that the stock H1 wires are not getting power.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The trigger is what you connect the stock H1 wires to. It trips the relay when power is on.

Just to check: Is the headlight connector plugged in (at the back of the headlight assembly)?[/b]
YES

If it is connected and still not turning on, look at the male pins on the back of the headlight and the female pins on the connector to make sure they are making contact.
Make sure the pins haven't shifted.
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I think they are fine, because the fogs light up, parking lot, turn signal blinks fast because i can't get it fully in for some reason...and the high beams work without a flaw....this is why it leads me to believe its the stock wires. When i plug the ballast wires that come from hidplanet(the 9006 connector with the two pig tail wires coming out of em) i hook those wires up directly to the stock wires without using the xenondepot wire harness. So its going directly from the ballasts to stock wires, and no juice. Maybe its not getting enough power to start up the ballast??? i dont know. But when i put it up to the CPU's power supply connecting 12volts to the ballasts two wires it works perfectlyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy so frustrating.

Also, check to make sure the xenon depot fuse holder actually has a fuse in it. If so, what is the amp rating? It should be 15 amps.
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There's a 20 amp fuse in there..dont know if that makes a diffrence, but i'm on my way to go grab some 15 amp fuses.

Where did you connect the ballast ground? To the battery or a bolt on the chassis? If it is a chassis bolt, make sure it is a good ground (ideally not a painted surface).
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So let me get this straight, you can ground it to either the Negative ORRRRR the Chasis. I did the Chasis and i'm sure its connecting pure metal and no paint.

If everything checks OK above, then you may need to get a multimeter or test light to verify your theory that the stock H1 wires are not getting power.
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If thats the case....on a scale from 1-10(ten being anally butt raped by a gorilla) how fucked am i?....
 

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So let me get this straight, you can ground it to either the Negative ORRRRR the Chasis. I did the Chasis and i'm sure its connecting pure metal and no paint.
If thats the case....on a scale from 1-10(ten being anally butt raped by a gorilla) how fucked am i?....
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Yes, you can ground it either to the negative battery terminal or the chassis. Technically, it is like mounting it to the same point, assuming that you have a good ground. You can buy a multimeter at any autoparts store or hardware store (Home Depot or Lowes). They can run anywhere from $25 to $200, depending on how fancy it is. I wouldn't say you are totally screwed except maybe for the time factor and your car is in pieces.

I find it odd that suddenly your stock low beam wires do not have power. Check the fuse for the low beam lights and make sure they are not blown. If the fuse is good, then you will need to verify that the low beam wires have power running to them. I guess you could test it by trying to hook up the original halogen H1 bulb and see if the light comes on. Essentially that will be your test light to see if you have power or not.

If it still doesn't work, then it could be a screwup in the wiring harness. The person that made it could have run the wires incorrectly.
 

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When i plug the ballast wires that come from hidplanet(the 9006 connector with the two pig tail wires coming out of em) i hook those wires up directly to the stock wires without using the xenondepot wire harness. So its going directly from the ballasts to stock wires, and no juice. Maybe its not getting enough power to start up the ballast???
[/b]

Wait, I just re-read this part carefully. Let me get this straight, you connected the ballast directly to the stock H1 wires? This would more than likely blow the fuse for the low beams. Remember, if you directly connect the ballast to the low beam wires, it will draw up to 15 amps to start the ballast. The low beams only use 10 amp fuses because they were not made to handle that kind of power. You are only supposed to use the stock low beam wires (low current) to "trigger" the relay so it closes the circuit for the main power (high current) for the ballast. Do not connect the low beam wires directly to the ballast, that is what the relay is for. This is probably where you problem is. Check the low beam fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Wait, I just re-read this part carefully. Let me get this straight, you connected the ballast directly to the stock H1 wires? This would more than likely blow the fuse for the low beams. Remember, if you directly connect the ballast to the low beam wires, it will draw up to 15 amps to start the ballast. The low beams only use 10 amp fuses because they were not made to handle that kind of power. You are only supposed to use the stock low beam wires (low current) to "trigger" the relay so it closes the circuit for the main power (high current) for the ballast. Do not connect the low beam wires directly to the ballast, that is what the relay is for. This is probably where you problem is. Check the low beam fuses.
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DING DING DINGGGGGG :p

headlight fuse it was blew it! you're a geniussssssssssss....

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR ALL YOU'RE HELP....

even though my cut off is in the trees down the street :slap:
 
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