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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1. Strut Tower Brace. One-piece, all-weld design (no pivoting parts)

(A)

хостинг изображений gif

(B) Attached via 5 bolts on each side. 5th bolt is under the black plastic cover. The 3 bolts that are on top of the strut tower are not Mazda OEMs, but came with the brace and are "high tensile".

бесплатный хостинг картинок

2. Rear Cross Brace

(A)

бесплатный хостинг картинок

(B)

хостинг картинок бесплатный

3. Rear Floor Bar. It's located right behind and below the back seats

(A)

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4. Front and Rear lower arm bars.

(A)

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(B) Rear one installed. A heat shield right above it's top had to be removed in order for it to fit. Parts are made JDM spec'ed cars. And Japanese instructions indicate that JDM Mazda 6 does not have this heat shield

хостинг изображений png

бесплатный хостинг картинок

Front one installed.

(C)

фотохостинг бесплатный

хостинг изображений gif

5. AutoEXE. From Tokyo with Love :) (I am not affiliated with them in any way)


фотохостинг png
 

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Man, all that stuff has to make that chassis 1,000,000x stiffer together.
 
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Intrigued on the front STB... Prices? haha.
AutoEXE stuff - That means about 170% more expensive than what they should cost.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
oh c'mon you big tease. Pics, but no juicy details on the ride. Shame on you sir! lol.
* AutoEXE states that the above parts are made from a "high-strength steel". And they do feel very solid. They CANT be bend with hands - I've tried.


1. The ride is NOT any stiffer than before, since suspension is all stock


#2. The car's structure feels SIGNIFICANTALY stronger. In rear the feeling is pronounced to a greater degree than in the front. The whole cars feels and reacts to inputs and the road more as "one-piece" rather than many pieces nicely screwed together.


3. The NVH has improved drastically due to the bullet point #2 ,

(A) No more cracks and pops in the dashboard when the car is upset mid-corner by a crease or a bump. Thanks to a strut brace that redistributes the stress to the second tower

(B) Way less cracking from the rear quarter panels when entering steep driveways

(C) overall significantly LESS reverberations and vibrations through the structure from road impacts (front and rear)


4. Better "drive" due to the same bullet point #2 .

(A) The suspension no longer has to take a set when making a turn/cornering. It's as if it takes the "set" instantly and imperceptibly.

(B) Steering is now more immediate and tighter

(C) Structure feels Germanic-like. I like to think it's Mercedes-like now :)


P.S. Prices

(A) I bought strut tower brace set (front and rear braces) and a floor bar together. They were shipped directly to me (California) from Japan at $775.

(B) Lower Arm Bars (front and rear) were purchased separately, and they first were shipped to a distributor, who then shipped them to me at a total cost of $265

(C) Total cost of all of these parts is about a $1,000
 

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I was curious as to if the extra stiffening bits brought it closer to mercedes/BMW territory. Nice to hear that it really doesn't take much to get the car there!
 

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P.S. Prices

(A) I bought strut tower brace set (front and rear braces) and a floor bar together. They were shipped directly to me (California) from Japan at $775.

(B) Lower Arm Bars (front and rear) were purchased separately, and they first were shipped to a distributor, who then shipped them to me at a total cost of $265

(C) Total cost of all of these parts is about a $1,000
Very nice. Didn't you estimate that the total cost would come out to around $2000 in another thread? Did the actual cost come down significantly, or are you just not finished yet? :)

Also, does the lower front arm end up becoming the lowest point on the chassis once installed? Any concern about shearing it off over a bad speed bump?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Very nice. Didn't you estimate that the total cost would come out to around $2000 in another thread? Did the actual cost come down significantly, or are you just not finished yet? :)
If you scroll down to a "Member Brace Set", with this set included (which I don't have) total price for all parts would approach $2k

Also, does the lower front arm end up becoming the lowest point on the chassis once installed? Any concern about shearing it off over a bad speed bump?
It's inline with the rest of the underbody. Ground clearance is practically not affected. This is so because plastic covers below the engine are just a tad lower the rest of the underbody
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
In what order from most important to least would you say to order the pieces? I can't order them all at one time but a piece by piece would be sufficient.

Also I like the rear-cross bar but I don't want to lose my fold down seats.
*The rear cross brace to me seems to make the single most significant difference. But it can only be purchased together with a front strut tower brace. The front brace however can be purchased by itself

I'd get, but this is just my (semi? quarter?) educated guess, a front strut tower brace and a floor bar - as a set, and then front and rear arm bars - also as a set

You can read functional description of the parts and what their supposed effect here:

AutoExe:ENGLISH top
 

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You highly recommend putting 1k$ of chassis stiffening bar/brace on a eco sedan with 184hp&185tq ?

At least for 1k$ you have Way less cracking from the rear quarter panels when entering steep driveways.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
You highly recommend putting 1k$ of chassis stiffening bar/brace on a eco sedan with 184hp&185tq ?
You don't have an understanding of what torsional stiffness is and how "drive" and NVH are directly correlated with it.

Horsepower and vehicle class is irrelevant. This is not something you do only to high-powered, or expensive cars. ALL, ALL vehicles get higher torsional stiffness with each generation. And this is also why E class Mercedes with NO leather, NO xenon, NO navigation, and NO other bells and whistles starts at $51k.

At least for 1k$ you have Way less cracking from the rear quarter panels when entering steep driveways.
This is just an indication that the structure got stronger.
 

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You don't have an understanding of what torsional stiffness is and how "drive" and NVH are directly correlated with it.

Horsepower and vehicle class is irrelevant. This is not something you do only to high-powered, or expensive cars. ALL, ALL vehicles get higher torsional stiffness with each generation. And this is also why E class Mercedes with NO leather, NO xenon, NO navigation, and NO other bells and whistles starts at $51k.



This is just an indication that the structure got stronger.

Torsional Stiffness, are you a sales representative for these products?

The Mercedes E class is a great car, and a great value by the way.
 

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You highly recommend putting 1k$ of chassis stiffening bar/brace on a eco sedan with 184hp&185tq ?

At least for 1k$ you have Way less cracking from the rear quarter panels when entering steep driveways.
I have said it before, and I will say it again. This 2014 Mazda 6 is plenty stiff for it's 184hp intentions. But i suppose there is a market for anything and everything in this world.
 

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25lbs for everything. I find it somewhat "heavy" but I think it's just about right. I wish there was a lightweight albeit robust alloy-type chassis brace kit, to save on weight...

Okay, 25lbs on a GJ manual at approx 3,183lbs..at +/- 3,208lbs with a stiffened chassis, a well acceptable trade-off.

So the next question would be..a group buy?!

I'm game. :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have said it before, and I will say it again. This 2014 Mazda 6 is plenty stiff for it's 184hp intentions. But i suppose there is a market for anything and everything in this world.
Why is this Mazda then stiffer than the 2003 Mazda 6 V6 with 220HP. Explain to my why torsional stiffness is higher on a car with less HP?:lol:

Or, alternatively, why is 2014 Mercedes S-class is 40% more torsionally stiffer than the 2013 one, while both have same or near the same horsepower?

Your argument is narrow, myopic, and wrong!
 
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