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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
CAI isnt needed, not that they will lower MPG. The stock airbox flows more than the motor can possibly use, check my sig for a free mod if all you want is noise.
I clicked the link in your sig and that mod actually seems pretty useful aside from getting more induction noise! I’m really interested, especially if it actually helps with responsiveness or power at 60+mph like you said (the highway being where this car typically gets outperformed). My question with that is what did you mean by “This with a K&N”? Like a K&N engine air filter instead of OEM? I wasn’t really interested in replacing ththe stock air filter after doing some research, but (if I’m understanding you correctly) since they’re easy to change i could just swap em out when i know I’ll be doing some spirited driving/tuning, right?
 

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Negligible. Way more ways to lose car weight easily.
Speaking of - getting lighter rims will make you feel it a lot more than a different exhaust. The OEM rims are quite heavy at 30lbs each - compared to my Nurbies that were 23 each and my current Niche that are 26.
 

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The suitcase weighs 26# by itself. Having the tips made like i said would only add back in 5# at most and sound better than the CS. Id avoid anything CS sells as they are just a reseller and dont make anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
A tune will do far more than any amount of intake/exhaust will do. (and with the supercharger the tune can mean an even bigger difference, like 30hp...)
Oh I believe you; I’ve only heard good things about this tune. I’m hoping since I’m on a budget and between jobs rn even if i finish the tune and later replace the shocks, struts, exhaust muffler, intake hose, etc. then down the line i can just log the new data with these parts & then remap a new tune according to their performance results. I’m looking to tune for 93 octane as well, so I can really see the difference which I’m sure will be like night & day.

The Injen actual CAI (most CAI are not actually...) is great on this car, first because the induction sounds in high rpm from this high compression engine are fantastic, and it gives a hint of extra kick across the rpm range (*note - these ECUs are sensitive and adaptive, so any time you change something, you need to disconnect the battery for a while to reset it so it can re-learn. That's a large source of varying results...). And yes the stock intake flows surprisingly well for OE and I doubt even the Injen CAI adds any measurable peak power gain, more noticeable under peak.
I’ll add the Injen CAI to my list of considerables, but omg disconnecting the battery makes SO much sense! This might be irrelevant, but when i first changed my wheels the meter for the capacitor in my gauge cluster refused to store energy otw home & didn’t actually start working again until several hours later on like my second or third trip that day lol. Anyway, I’ll make sure to remind the techs about this if they don’t already know; most if not all of this aftermarket stuff will definitely not be done in a Mazda dealer’s shop obvi.

for exhaust just don't remove the resonator (IMO) and you can go have a shop do a custom setup. My son is running a glass-pack replacing stock muffler, a little louder but not bad... Really these engines sound great thanks to the tri-y headers, just replace the gigantic stock muffler and you'll be happy
The corksport one is very nice but also expensive, should be able to have local shop set you up for less
I assumming Midas didn’t change my stock resonator when they raped my wallet to install my ginormous tailpipes. However, I’ve grown fond of the low gurgle i hear from the UPower tips when standing near the rear, so I’m contemplating (if it’s not too much more expensive) asking the next shop to cut them off & attach them to whatever I replace the stock muffler with whether it the CS axel back or a custom exhaust.

You guys aren’t the first to suggest just getting a custom exhaust made for a better sound. It seems like a pretty popular & less expensive alternative to buying a $500-1000 new exhaust system on top of labor cost. But tbh I’ve kind of accepted that a lot of these packages of mods cost around the $500 range (like the B6 front & rear package, for example), so i don’t mind paying top dollar for quality parts. Plus, the sound & gains (however small) i might get from the CS axel back are very enticing! I’m still a newbie, nonetheless, so i appreciate you guys’ informative suggestions especially in cases where i may be misinformed or inexperienced :)

P.S. i always thought this^ smiley looked kind of oddly dead inside lolol
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Speaking of - getting lighter rims will make you feel it a lot more than a different exhaust. The OEM rims are quite heavy at 30lbs each - compared to my Nurbies that were 23 each and my current Niche that are 26.
So true! From what i gathered (i could be wrong) i think the OEM wheels + tire total weight is around 52.6lbs/wheel & my 19x8.5 AV20s + my 255/40 Conts total weight is around 48.7lbs/wheel. The added grip is nice and i think i have the same amount of pep as stock BUT the wider contact patch & excess rubber made the engine feel like it has to work a bit harder when i first switched setups. So it kind of feels quicker, but also damn near broke even in a sense lol. I have a friend with a stock 2015 M6 touring on 19s and I’ve been meaning to ask him if i can drive his car if i let him drive mine in order to do a proper comparison :sneaky:
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The suitcase weighs 26# by itself. Having the tips made like i said would only add back in 5# at most and sound better than the CS. Id avoid anything CS sells as they are just a reseller and dont make anything.
Lmfao at “suitcase” :LOL:

Dammit, now I’m really perplexed… what i liked about the CS axel back in the video Byakuya linked is how it had a deeper tone vs the cat back which sounded a bit more resonated & loud. I’m leaning more towards my preference/quality of sound vs more decibels.

Some of the comments & reviews approved of the sound & performance, but can you elaborate on why you disapprove of Corksport? I’m going to look into it a bit more cuz I don’t want to just instantly go with the option that seems like the best, especially if i can get the same results for less money. And if you have any links of other 3rd gens with the type of exhaust work you’re referring to please do share!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Some of the comments & reviews approved of the sound & performance, but can you elaborate on why you disapprove of Corksport? I’m going to look into it a bit more cuz I don’t want to just instantly go with the option that seems like the best, especially if i can get the same results for less money. And if you have any links of other 3rd gens with the type of exhaust work you’re referring to please do share!
TalonTsi90 what do you think of this Amazon review? The guy said allegedly “since i installed a k&n air intake and this exhaust system I get 50 more miles from a tank of gas consistently.” I might prioritize my exhaust now over the B6s since I’m in the process of tuning & just want better sound/acceleration, but his claim about increased mpgs with the CS axel back + a K&N air filter seems like wishful thinking if not a stretch although i do want to believe him. Everyone has their opinion of course & it all comes down to preference in the end, but i need facts to back something like this up, ya feel me :unsure:
Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle

Also, I changed my mind about keeping my current UPower tips when i make the swap. These look much cleaner & in hindsight I don’t think the installation was at all worth the price i paid for just a visual mod.
 

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TalonTsi90 what do you think of this Amazon review? The guy said allegedly “since i installed a k&n air intake and this exhaust system I get 50 more miles from a tank of gas consistently.” I might prioritize my exhaust now over the B6s since I’m in the process of tuning & just want better sound/acceleration, but his claim about increased mpgs with the CS axel back + a K&N air filter seems like wishful thinking if not a stretch although i do want to believe him. Everyone has their opinion of course & it all comes down to preference in the end, but i need facts to back something like this up, ya feel me :unsure:

Also, I changed my mind about keeping my current UPower tips when i make the swap. These look much cleaner & in hindsight I don’t think the installation was at all worth the price i paid for just a visual mod.
I think he's full of it :)

More air in and more air out means more fuel - these skyractive engines are supremely tuned to get maximum and near-perfect combustion - you're not gonna increase any MPGs unless you change how you drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Those exhaust tips are still in my "list" on Amazon lol!.. I been so at busy at work I've barley had time to wash the car 🤣
(Plus it's rainy season in Florida)
Haha i feel you on that and tbh (unless you know a shop that won’t do to you what Midas did to me just to install those tips since they needed adapters to make the new tip inlets fit the stock pipes) i would just save up for a better exhaust system (axel back, cat back, etc.). You’ll get the aggressive look we’re aiming for with added performance & better sound. Had I known more exhaust systems and that the new tips wouldn’t fit I would’ve put that installation money towards this CS axel back I’m currently eyeing.

I think he's full of it :)

More air in and more air out means more fuel - these skyractive engines are supremely tuned to get maximum and near-perfect combustion - you're not gonna increase any MPGs unless you change how you drive.
That’s what i figured! I’m like maybe he does a lot of highway driving vs my more city/neighborhood oriented daily driving since I’m contracting from home BUT still HOWW SWAY?! Lmao

So for now, I’ll grab that silicone intake hose Talon recommended, eventually a new exhaust, suspension, & so on. The hose i can order next week but everything else will be months down the line if not next year.

I’ll keep posting updates to my build in this thread including some more visual mods I have coming soon ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Speaking of visuals, since I’ve spent a lot of time on the visual customization of my car i figured I’d share some of DIY work on Sheila:
Automotive tail & brake light Automotive lighting Automotive parking light Hood Vehicle
Automotive tail & brake light Car Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting
^Mazdaspeed badge (i eventually removed the white decals under the spoiler)
Vehicle Car Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle
Automotive lighting Amber Gas Tints and shades Font
^These show only when i brake due to the tint but i removed the katana cuz i thought it was kinda cheesy & barely noticeable lol
Vehicle Car Wheel Tire Automotive lighting

^Chrome Evil M badge & imitation rear diffuser using 3M fins from Amazon (which i didn’t want on the roof & repurposed) :)
Automotive parking light Car Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire
^Mazdaspeed in Japanese (only on driver side)
Tire Wheel Car Hood Automotive tire

^pointy Mazdspeed side badge (the red is discolored now due to the elements)
Automotive parking light Grille Automotive tail & brake light Hood Tire
^Chrome lower grille bar (had to cut down multiple pieces & put them together like a puzzle so they could fit flush), 2 fins (same parts under the rear) & satin black wrapped front lip (for whatever reason 2015 GTs don’t come with the black lip already)
Car Land vehicle Vehicle Grille Automotive lighting
^Satin black vinyl wrap
Grille Automotive lighting Car Motor vehicle Hood

^Matte silver Evil M decal (to match the trunk badge)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Here’s the interior customization I’ve done:
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Gear shift

^Pedals & ignition button cover
Car Gear shift Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design

^Shift knob cover
Plant Vehicle Car Speedometer Automotive tire

^Suede leather steering wheel cover
Car Vehicle Speedometer Plant Motor vehicle

Speedometer Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Steering part

^Paddle shift extenders
Textile Comfort Rectangle Red Tints and shades

^Front floor mats (check photo from first post in this thread)
Tire Automotive tire Tread Automotive exterior Wheel

^Door sill protectors (i keep forgetting to capture what they look like installed lol)
Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle

^Door latch cover (this photo is from Amazon since once again i forgot to take pics lolol)
 

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I HATE this forum software... it wont keep replies saved like vB did...

but can you elaborate on why you disapprove of Corksport?
They largely misrepresent themselves as a company and sooooo many people get snagged into paying high prices cause they think they are getting a dedicated item for their car. Like example, the crank pulley and rear camber arms, are NOT theirs, despite them claiming their engineers came up with the design and their factory made them. Makes me sick the lies that people will believe and since they are so entrenched in the community, people dont believe the truth.

Heres a good example of a suitcase-less system 2015 Mazda 6 Muffler Delete Revs - YouTube heres another, grabbed the relevant clip area, the rest is bullshit


Heres mine, 2.5" almost straight pipe from the header back, 3" inlet, dual 2.5" outlet Dynomax muffler with custom baffle/tuners to eliminate the high end Honduh sound. No cat or res. 2017 Mazda 3 cold start - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
They largely misrepresent themselves as a company and sooooo many people get snagged into paying high prices cause they think they are getting a dedicated item for their car. Like example, the crank pulley and rear camber arms, are NOT theirs, despite them claiming their engineers came up with the design and their factory made them. Makes me sick the lies that people will believe and since they are so entrenched in the community, people dont believe the truth.

Heres a good example of a suitcase-less system 2015 Mazda 6 Muffler Delete Revs - YouTube heres another, grabbed the relevant clip area, the rest is bullshit

Heres mine, 2.5" almost straight pipe from the header back, 3" inlet, dual 2.5" outlet Dynomax muffler with custom baffle/tuners to eliminate the high end Honduh sound. No cat or res. 2017 Mazda 3 cold start - YouTube
I completely understand your gripes; I’ll probably only get the axel back from CS (if that) since nothing else they make interests me nor do i think i need.

And thanks for the video references! Helps paint a clear picture for what I’m aiming to get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So I’ve been doing some planning & need of a bit of direction for new Tires:

I’ve decided after i switch back to the my stock wheel setup this upcoming winter (mainly since 255/40 isn’t the best width for the snow) I’m going to downsize to a 245/40ZR19 for my AV20s next year to improve the handling and hopefully the acceleration. @Byakuya , that aesthetic inspiration i got from your build is still pretty badass & i love the look on Sheila. But since i won’t be doing any real engine mods (anytime soon if ever) for this underpowered beauty & I’m gonn stick to unsprung weight savings. Plus, I’ll only be increasing the wheel gap/lowering the sidewall by a few mm. And I’ll be getting some nice 5mm spacers for the rear to makeup for the slight tuck & gap.

Now, the crossroad I’ve come to is whether to buy another set of ExtremeContact DWS06s—love them & they’re super dependable—or to try the ExtremeContact Sports; here’s how i see it so far if i compare them:
EC DWS Pros
  • Best Continental tire for superior comfort while maintaining surprisingly good performance in all seasons
  • Mine have even taken a long deep nail diagonally thru the shoulder and didn’t puncture
  • If too 245/40 isn’t too wide for the winter I won’t have to switch tires really ever while i have this car
  • Probably much better at protecting for curb rash even though I already have some smh
Cons
  • Outshined by high summer performance summer tires during the hot & wet weather
EC Sport Pros
  • Has a higher speed index
  • Should squeeze out better performance (this word is getting redundant lol) & give me more of an edge on the street
  • Better braking distance and tested lap times by a few secs (give or take) in wet & dry weather according to Cont’s tests
  • Can’t imagine how the car will feel after installing Bilstein B6s, brake rotors, pads, tune AND possibly Tanabe springs with UHP summer tires
  • Both these & the stocks tires should last a while if swapped for the seasons
Cons
  • Comfort will ever so slightly suffer (on top of the loss of the higher aspect ratio cushion)
  • Aren’t probably as forgiving over potholes & large bumps
  • Unsure about their longevity but I’m sure they don’t last as long as DWS06s
  • I hate the thought of of reverting back to that horrendous fitment in the winter (although looks matter much less & i live by better safe than sorry)
A safe bet (as stated in one of @TalonTsi90 ’s replies in a different discussion Continental Tires about these tires) would be to stick with DWS06s for cost effectiveness & reliability. But alas, I’m kinda boujee & desire to push the utmost P and satisfying appearance within reason. I’m leaning towards the Sports, but should i reconsider?? :unsure:

The other more short term thing I’m contemplating outside of tires is whether to upgrade the exhaust first or the suspension. I‘m longing to enjoy a better sound among other benefits from a new exhaust, but something is telling me I’d get more sleeper-esk benefits along with better handling, weight transfer & damping from some Bilsteins.

And THEN for suspension I need to figure out if i want to stick with B6s for handling & comfort or just go all out on some B8s… B6s are more my practical for me rn but idk if the less than ideal Tanabe spring rate (even if only slightly stiffer than OE) will do more harm to the shocks/struts. B8s will naturally make the car slightly lower & i probably won’t need Tanabes since I’m too puss to drop it even an inch with my daily driving conditions but will the higher spring rate B8s throw comfort out the window? Even though they’re made for lowering springs, B8 + Tanabes isn’t really ask option for me; it would completely kill the ride. Plus, I might as well just get coilovers with that money (which I’m not).

And tbh I’ll probably never track my car—maybe once eventually for my enthusiast bucket list lol. These are my current choices for Tires & Suspension:
  1. Bilstein B6 + DWS06 (most comfort)
  2. Bilstein B6 + DWS06 + Tanabes
  3. Bilstein B6 + Sports +/- Tanabes
  4. B8 + DWS06 “ “
  5. B8 + Sports “ “
  6. B8 + Sports + Tanabes (YOLO)
I’m teetering between 3 (possibly with Tanabes at some point if safe & applicable) & 4 (if i can get a modest drop and still daily it). Also, next year if I like the 245/40 look & feel, then I’ll more than likely be selling my 255/40R19 DWS06s!
 

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Cons
  • Outshined by high summer performance summer tires during the hot & wet weather
Barely. And only really at autocross. Plus they grip like you would not believe at 19 degrees and a lot of salt.

Ditch the Tans and go H&Rs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Barely. And only really at autocross. Plus they grip like you would not believe at 19 degrees and a lot of salt.

Ditch the Tans and go H&Rs.
Yea i was mistaken about a couple things: the Sports are only like a sec faster overall testing wise in the dry and idc about the wet since DWS06s are good enough as is & I’m a pretty safe driver in the rain; plus the speed/load indexes for both are the same for that size.

I can’t go H&R. I’ve seen those paired with B8s a LOT, but I’m not into the slammed look nor do i want the roughness trade off. I’m thinking of just going with B6 + DWS06, but as far as suspension vs exhaust Talon which should I prioritize & save up for first? I know you said i could get a much cheaper custom alternative for exhaust although I’m kinda married to the CS axle back choice lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Cool, I’ll def take heed & focus on the suspension next then.

@Byakuya did you ever get B8s for the rear? I know B6s are the safest/best bet with OE springs, but I’ve been considering B8s since they slightly lower the ride height. Most would say they’re exclusively made for lowering/sport springs although I’m wondering if they’re safe with OE springs or if doing that could have bad side effects. B8s being 25mm shorter than B6s means the springs would have a higher initial compression & shorter travel distance on top of the extra pounds of force compared to the OE struts & shocks.
 
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