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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bit of a PITA, but not too bad. Time wasted before dropping rear of sub-frame which made putting in the cross-over pipe a cinch. A stubby ratchet, and mid-depth 13mm socket make all the difference in the world on this job for working on the head studs. So does 2' of extension when putting on the rear header. Only true pisser was store gave me the wrong serpentine and water pump belts....... :(

The only problem area on the headers is that I lost about 1.5" of ground clearance. The U-turn needed after the rear header to meet-up with the cross-over is UGLY and hangs way too low. Not happy about it.

Was worried like hell first time I fired-up the car; sounded like a ricer special. Crossed fingers that it was due to the muffler tips being 8" from the garage door and pointed at the ground due to still being on ramps.

Took it for a drive and it's a bit annoying inside. A V6 is not going to make as good a sound as a V8 with headers, but I knew that going in. Was worried that outside it'd sound like a kid with HKS on a 240.

Brother drove it back and forth a few times for me and from outside it's not bad at all. I may see about having the resonator replaced with an actual muffler though to kill some of the inside sound. It's a bit on the annoying side and could be embarrassing with co-workers, etc. I'll decide over the next couple of days.

Crossing my fingers- but so far no CEL.....

And at least I no longer need to worry about my convertors.

So, who wants to buy a stock V6 set-up? ;)
 

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I wanted to get a set but funds are low right now. My alternative was just guttin out my precats since im paranoid about the engine failure. Im pretty sure i can get to the rear precat without taking it off the motor am i correct?

Also on the front precat I will have to take it off and cut to
gut and weld back together so my question is what all is involved in taking off the front manifold? Thanks for any replys. I have searched and havent found any how-to's yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Whoops - missed this.

Front manifold is a cinch. I would recommend having a stubby, flex-head 3/8 ratchet. Can't believe how much easier it makes life.

Also, a medium-depth 13mm socket comes in very handy for the far passenger's side manifold stud. Short is too short for the stud length; deep well bumps against a hard A/C line. A medium depth is perfect.
 

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Karl10 any follow up thoughts on your headers? Sound still OK? Performance gains?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hello

Overall, certainly happy. The one thing that really bothers me is the U-turn mentioned above. I took the car into the local custom/performance exhaust shop the other day to have him weld-up my intermediate pipe with the flex and convertor. While he said the design and work of the headers overall is excellent, he said that U-turn was done in a poor way. He could fix it for me with 403 stainless for $100, so I may do so. Just sucks that I'll lose the ceramic coating and be prone to rust at the welds. I'll have to think about it pretty seriously. Having that hang-down 1.5" is not good. Nor is the sharp bend.

The overall sound is pretty good to borderline. I need to have someone make a couple of more passes while I'm outside the car so I can get a better judge of how it sounds. I don't want something embarrassingly loud.

Being a short-tube design I didn't gain anything down low, but I did gain some mid-range and that is nice.

I'll withhold final verdict for now, but in-town MPG seems to have jumped about 2MPG..... Highway about 1.5.
 
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One thing you could consider is having an exhaust shop replace your oem resonator with a larger resonator. Something like a 18" magnaflow resonator. That would help tone it down.
 
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