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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know of any blow off valves that will make the sound but wont vent to atmoshphere?

Also the shops I used to go to around the chicagoland area dont have any MS6 parts or heard anything about the car really. They just know it exists and thats all. So I am not sure where to even buy these BOV's from.
 

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Put an a cold air intake and you should hear the BOV a little more. If it's still not enough, most high end ones will be louder if they run in recirc. Mine is VTA and I have no problems at all; I haven't gotten any CELs and my air/fuel mixture is still within spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Put an a cold air intake and you should hear the BOV a little more. If it's still not enough, most high end ones will be louder if they run in recirc. Mine is VTA and I have no problems at all; I haven't gotten any CELs and my air/fuel mixture is still within spec.
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I dont know anything about these things. I am looking for a BOV that fits perfectly, doesnt effect my air fuel whatever mixture and one that doesnt stall the car if I put it into nuetral while driving or reving the motor. Anyone know of one?
 

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The GReddy Type-S has a nice PSHHT followed by a very audible GEESH in recirc, however if you try to pull it from low RPMs you will have a slight flutter. I have a CAI, so I'm not sure what it would sound like with a stock airbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The GReddy Type-S has a nice PSHHT followed by a very audible GEESH in recirc, however if you try to pull it from low RPMs you will have a slight flutter. I have a CAI, so I'm not sure what it would sound like with a stock airbox.
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So if i am driving at about 30 miles per hour and increasing speed at about 5000 rpm and then put it into nuetral will it die? Also where are you buying these parts from, None of the shops I go to know anyhting about this car or have worked/ordered parts for it...

Kinda sucks cuase they do good work
 

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So if i am driving at about 30 miles per hour and increasing speed at about 5000 rpm and then put it into nuetral will it die? Also where are you buying these parts from, None of the shops I go to know anyhting about this car or have worked/ordered parts for it...

Kinda sucks cuase they do good work
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You can get an HKS SSQ BOV with the Recirulation adapter. It's quite easy to install. Their website has great directions. Make sure you get an adapter soo that your BOV will fit onto the stock mounting plate.

It won't die if you put the gear in neutral. It flutters at low RPMs, i.e. if you are in a higher gear than you should be in. The sound will only come as the excess pressure is released through the valve, like when the turbo is spolling and you let off the accelerator.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can get an HKS SSQ BOV with the Recirulation adapter. It's quite easy to install. Their website has great directions. Make sure you get an adapter soo that your BOV will fit onto the stock mounting plate.

It won't die if you put the gear in neutral. It flutters at low RPMs, i.e. if you are in a higher gear than you should be in. The sound will only come as the excess pressure is released through the valve, like when the turbo is spolling and you let off the accelerator.
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I just looked on their site and there is nothing talking about the SSQ BOV...only the SS and i have no idea what the diff is or how to find a right mounting plate?
 

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I just looked on their site and there is nothing talking about the SSQ BOV...only the SS and i have no idea what the diff is or how to find a right mounting plate?
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http://www.streetunit.com/HKS_SSQV_Blow_Of...1421-sa001x.htm

I believe that one is the package and includes the recirc. and flange adapters.

if not, http://www.streetunit.com/Engine_s/70.htm

There you will find the individual BOV, Flange, and recirc. fitting.

I don't know why you wouldn't consider running it VTA, especially if you are trying to achieve the loud release noise. I don't know about with the stock air filter box, but I know that with the Mazdaspeed CAI I am running, VTA is working great with the HKS. I don't notice any bogging and no CELs.
 

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DO Not go directly from HKS =) You are MUCH better off, safer, and likely to get the right parts from a vender that sells Mazdaspeed6 BOV kits...

I personally run the HKS with the CP-e kit... the snapring is a PITA to install but aside from that its a good kit.. AND comes with all the VTA / Recirc stuff you need..
 

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Yes, like PerfectXtreme said. I was not suggesting that you buy from HKS, just that you see that they have directions on their site for install.
 

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^^^ IMO its because we didn't buy an Evo which LOOKS like a turbo car with a HUGE frontmount... So ppl see Mazda and are like... meh it looks nice....

But people want it to SOUND nice too.... exhaust doesn't do that.. you can put exhaust on anything... 90% of hondas on the planet have exhaust and are slow as shit... =)

So... BOV ... is pretty much the only way to get "fast" sound.... =) BOV.. while it does have a very important purpose... is also a way of saying "yeah... i'd kick your ass" or... "i'm fast as hell".. bla bla bla...

HOWEVER... I think running it VTA is a huge noob move... People who understand how a vehicle works... and how a turbo works... should understand that VTA is REMOVING air from the intake stream... Basially the vehicle thinks more AIR is on the way.. than there really is... messing up fuel-air ratios... Only for a quick second.. HOWEVER i shift pretty often.. i mean i'm in 3rd gear by like 40 easy... 4th by 50-60... when doing normal driving in city / highway streets... So.. thats 3-5x the vehicle's fuel-air ratio is messed up... every time you get going anywhere... bla bla bla

Plus i guess i'm special because you can hear my BOV for miles (not really.. but long ways)... in proper recirc mode...

Also... catch me if i'm wrong... but isn't VTA a setup used for vehicles that run 40-60+ lbs of boost? And dumping that much air back into the intake is worse than venting it? I could be wrong.. but seems like a logical reason to have VTA... when you're dealing with HUGE volumes of air... 15psi is nothing
 

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If venting the compressed air would mess up the air/fuel ratio than that would show up. Mine has been tested and it's within Spec. Not to mention that out of spec. should throw a CEL.
 

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^^^ IMO its because we didn't buy an Evo which LOOKS like a turbo car with a HUGE frontmount... So ppl see Mazda and are like... meh it looks nice... ....me if i'm wrong... but isn't VTA a setup used for vehicles that run 40-60+ lbs of boost? And dumping that much air back into the intake is worse than venting it? I could be wrong.. but seems like a logical reason to have VTA... when you're dealing with HUGE volumes of air... 15psi is nothing
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I had a turbo Passat awhile back. Fun car, lots of upgrades. I installed a BOV in VTA and let me tell you....the thing would BARELY run! It coughed, sputtered, blew TONS of black smoke out of the exhaust and you could SMELL the unburnt fuel. Just crap.

On this car, I've been running my HKS in VTA mode now for about a month....no problems whatsoever. I did it this way to see for myself (since others have said it works fine) and, to my amazement, it does.

Even a mechanic at the dealer said it was fine to VTA. Go figure.
 

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HOWEVER... I think running it VTA is a huge noob move... People who understand how a vehicle works... and how a turbo works... should understand that VTA is REMOVING air from the intake stream...
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Wow, this is backwards. OK, here is what happens:

1) When under boost, say you are at partial throttle, 5lbs of boost IN THE INTAKE manifold. (this is a key part of this example, make note of it) For sake of example, lets say the injector pulsewidth is 20%
(remember, we don't really CARE about what the inlet pressure is, since that will be bled off by the BOV, we only care what the MANIFOLD pressure is, that is where it matters, thats how we determine how much fuel is needed)

2) So, you let up on the throttle. At that instant, the intake manifold pressure drops to -.5lbs (note: it is now a VACUUM ie negative pressure). Pressure on the inlet tube, in front of the throttle, spikes up to prlly 15psi. The air that is now at 15psi has already been metered, BUT, the ecu knows better, and reads the closed throttle position and the resultant intake pressure drop as its new fueling reference and the injector pulsewidth drops to about 5%. As long as the intake manifold pressure is negative and the tps is showing a closed throttle, it ignores the metered air thats pressurized in the inlet, knowing that its being blown off by the BOV by merely looking at MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and TPS (throttle position sensor). Its important that the BOV can bleed this excess pressure off as FAST as possible to reduce the chance of a boost spike.

IF your BOV ISN'T BIG ENOUGH OR CAN'T RELIEVE PRESSURE FAST ENOUGH YOU WILL GET LEAN SPIKES. THAT is why VTA is the way to go. ;)


Also, now, you can see how using a VTA BOV with certain cars can lead to the car puffing smoke out during shifts. Its because the ECU is fairly primitive and can't cut the fuel fast enough to compensate for the throttle being let off and the subsequent decrease in airflow, so, the car spikes dirty rich between shifts until the ecu can compensate and decreases the fueling for that split second.

The Subarus used to blow head gaskets because of this issue. The boost spike would hit, and the ecu couldn't react fast enough. Only way to combat this was to go to a VTA BOV, but, everyone was afraid to mess up their warranty because suby dealerships were being bastards, so, they just let the car pop like a big zit and haul it back for a new motor. Eventually they updated the ECU, but, until that time I saw many Subys blowing their motors.
 

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I have a 50/50 bov from Go fast bits for my WRX. Go fast bits make some of the best BOV in the market, but they only design their stuff around Subaru. You can even adjust the voice level in some of thier BOVs.


Maybe it will be a good solution for people that want more sound but don't want engine run too rich between shift.
 

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AS ghettospeed had posted above as well as myself about 3 times already in the thread, running VTA WILL NOT run rich. I've had the car tested and the mixture was not out of spec.
 

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AS ghettospeed had posted above as well as myself about 3 times already in the thread, running VTA WILL NOT run rich. I've had the car tested and the mixture was not out of spec.
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Well, thats MOSTLY true on our cars. It certainly won't run LEAN, and THAT is what is important. I would rather have a little puff of smoke and/or a small backfire than a lean condition that splits a piston in half. ;)

It does seem to spike rich a little bit between shifts at certain rpms, but, that can be lived with and/or will be compensated for by intake, exhaust, downpipe, etc. :love:

All in all, the fact that a VTA BOV will allow the car to run a good mixture and/or a little rich between shifts is good insurance at keeping your engine from blowing up esp. when you start to add other mods. It can literally save your engine.
 
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